Could be lots of things, wheel bearing, CV joint, TCA - hav eyou tried jacking the car up and wiggling the wheel top and bottom and side to side??

G

 

No i havent but will do.

Funnily enough i got 4 new tyres and the alignment at the front done 3 days ago, and havent used car until today, and today i notice it.

Could this be related ??

 

Hmmm....sounds possible - best check that they havent left anything loose!!!!

G

 

Clunking on lock!

I had exactly the same problem on my 2001 mak6 and after changing the drive shafts still had it. I took the car to 3 main :mitsi: dealers who all misdiagnosed the problem.

The supplying dealer had the car for 10 days and then returned it no fault found. Eventually the car was properly diagnosed in a 2 minute conversation with Dave Howard who builds Evo 6 rally cars from the ground up and then supports them throughout Europe, he knew instantly what it was. Dave couldnt do the Job as he was in Croatia or somewhere rallying.

The bolts in the transfer box had sheared!!!

I then had to find a garage who would take the job on having now given up on my warranty and the competence of Main dealer service departments.

I posted on here for help and was contacted by GAZ@CPP who hadnt done one before but would do the job. 30 hours later my car was back with old bolts removed and larger high tensile bolts now fitted. A couple of hundred quid and its been perfect ever since.

One downside is that I then went on to spend a fortune at GAZ's on power increases that my transfer box now handles perfectly.

Good Luck

 

Oh Brilliant

 

Yep,its a common fault on the Evo.
Theres more about it in the FAQ section i think.

 

Michael, difficult one this, as G8WRC has said, it could be a number of things.I had the same problem, and it turned out to be the front struts of all things!

...this was after the transfer box had been stripped twice and the gearbox once by my dealer!

Can you get it to knock on command, or its it as and when it feels like it? Mine was worse in the wet (or when i'd washed the car under the front wheel arches), and i could get it to knock continuously driving around the new type roundabouts which have a heavy camber and cobble stones in the middle.The noise was rotational too, imagine my surprise when it turned out to be something that doesn't even move!!!

I know of another Evo that is suffering the same problem a.t.m, though it isn't terminal so the owner is just leaving it, after all, whats alittle knocking??

Difficult bit is that you wot know for sure until the transfer box is dropped and the bolts checked.Was the car tracked before you owned it? Its very common for the bolts to break on cars that have been curbed heavily, as the wheel momentarily spins as it leaves the ground, then grabs as it touches back down... this obviously does nothing for the transmission

 

Michael

Exactly the same happened to me.

Do not drive the car. Change the bolts for stronger ones immediately.

There is a thread on here about it.

The bolts caost about £10.

 

Look at this thread.

On mine all 4 bolts snapped when performing a fast getaway on full left lock.

http://www.lancerregister.com/bbs/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4037&highlight=transfer+box+bolts

Since replacing them I have done about 20,000 miles and many hours hard driving with no problems.

Good luck.

 

Michael,
If it is the front diff then the best thread to look at is here

It has pictures of the job and what you are looking for.
I replaced mine within about 6 hours (taking my time) and it cost me a few quid for the bolts from Gaz.

Andy

 

Guys

i know fuk all about this sort of thing, and needless to say am now totally shitting myself.

Someone has said it sounds 100% like a CV Joint, some on here have said Transfer Box Bolts and some have said to not even drive the car.

Really dont want to go ripping out Transfer boxes etc (is it a big job !?!) if its not that, but problem i have here in Aberdeen is that NOBODY knows what they can do, Mitsubishi reckon they are fully booked and cant look at it for 3 weeks and i need my car day-to-day.

The word FU*K comes to mind, cos i just dont know what to do first now.

Michael

 

PS....The car doesnt need to be under any strain, just driving in a circle on full lock does it,

 

Michael it only clunks on full lock because the diff is doing some work, because one wheel is going round faster than the other.

When going in a straight line the internals are not turning.

The clunking noise is the sheared bolts catching as it turns.

Your local mechanic should be able to do the work no problem. Don't bother with the Mitsi dealer.

Another point is if it still under warranty it should be fully covered.

 

The cars not under warranty as it was a direct import

Can you offer me some sort of timescale/description of the job if its transfer box bolts, as Mitsubishi basically arent interested for weeks, and would charge me a fortune anyways.

Should any competent mechanic be able to do this ?

What i really need to determine is if its a driveshaft or these bolts, but is there an easy way to eliminate either ?

Michael

 

Michael

My local mechanic did the job in about a day with no problems.

I beleive that driveshafts, cv joints etc are all very strong but the sheared bolts are quite common.

Talk to one of the specialists I'm sure they will give a better estimation of time.

If the car has been inspected annually by Mitsi and is less than 3 yrs old even if imported it should be covered by warranty. try ringing MMC they will tell you.

 

The car is a 1998 EVO 5 GSR

So probably not near to being covered.

Local mitsubishi said "erm transfer box what!?" when i just called......doesnt inspire confidence.

Am now totally gutted cos nowhere i speak to knows what they are speaking about up here or what to do to fix it.

Feel like just smashing the thing and getting an insurance pay out !!!!!!!!

Do you have a phone number i can discuss this with u on mate ?

Michael

 

Relax!!!

Hey Michael,

Relax, I did 2 track days with my bolts gone!

Anyway, from what you say its definetly the transfer box bolts, I went through the same process as you.

Its not a big job, and certainly not one that should make you want to destroy your Evo!!!:flame:

Call GAZ on 01625 869911 and put your mind at ease.

:cheers:

P.S Its a bad idea to take your car to mitsi main dealers for anything, they are diesel shogun specialists nothing else.
The time wasted with incorrect diagnosis and getting shoddy work rectified convinced me to abandon my new uk car warranty @ 6 months in.

 

Am looking at getting these bolts done now, or at least check if it is these bolts that are gone.

What i need is if possible someone who can knock me up a quick "how to" on removing the tx box and bolts etc, i know i am a pain in the arse but the mechanic i have isnt too confident on doing it without a good detailed description in front of him on what he needs to do and look for etc.

So if anyone feels in a good mood and has the know how could they do this for me ??

Also anyone know where i can get 12.9 Grade High Tensile M8x20 Bolts from by any chance??

Cheers

Michael

 

Michael,

Here goes a reasonably detailed description for you:

First of all get the front of the car jacked up and on axle stands or ramps.

1. Remove exhaust front pipe from the turbo to the cat

2. Drain the oil from both the gearbox and the transfer box. Noth drain holes are clearly visible from under the car.

3. Remove both front drive shafts. They just 'pop' out and it is easier to remove them if you take off both front wheels and undo the hubs from the suspension struts to give you a bit more room to undo them.

4. Screw an 8mm nut into the hole on the output shaft on the transfer box side and use a slide hammer to pop the shaft out.

5. Undo all of the transfer box to gearbox mounting bolts (including those on the top of the box that you forget about whilst you're under the car!!!!)

6. Slowly edge the transfer box away from the gearbox. It will come out so far and then it will seem to get stuck..... Best option now is to insert a punch or pry bar into the hole in the middle of the transfer box and gently tap the centre shaft towards the gearbox.

7. The transfer box will come free and can be lowered to the floor. BE WARNED THAT IT'S HEAVY AND WILL NEED 2 PEOPLE TO DO THIS.

8. As you lower the transfer box to the floor, the propshaft will slide out from the end of the transfer box.

9. Once out, remove the bolts holding the 2 halves of the box together and gently separate the halves by levering them gently with a screwdriver.

10. Remove the diff assembly from the box and remove the 14mm bolts holding the front diff inside. As you remove these, the ring gear will separate from the assembly and can be removed.

11. Inside the casing you will find your front diff and probably a few bolt heads.

12. Remove any bolts still in place and the diff will separate into 2 halves

13. Replace the bolts with new ones (with a bit of Loctite) and then put everything back together again and refill the fluids.

Job done.....

When I get home tonight I can download appropriate pictures that I took when I was disassembling my transfer box. They are a bit grainy but you should be able to make out the key points.

Hope this helps

Andy

 

I've also got some PDF's of the diff assembly etc and can send you these as well if you PM me your address.

Andy

 

Brilliant mate thanks very much. Much appreciated indeed.

Can you email me the pics of the disassembly etc tonight please ?

michgellie@aol.com

Thanks

Michael

 

Nice work Andy.

Good luck Michael

 

Cheers Mike

Phone call was much appreciated this afternoon.

Am waiting on extreme uk to get back to me re: proper bolts for replacement but they havent yet

Will let u know how it goes as it should be getting done on saturday fingers crossed !

Michael

 

Right then,
Photos as follows: I apologise now for the quality.

1st one is draining the transfer box oil

 

Next one shows one of the driveshafts popped out.