Don't ask claudius about suspension unless you are mad and want to spend most of your £5k on it!
The DMS gold is a 40mm single tube damper with 20 adjustable settings, and double progressive springs (350lbs I think or thereabouts). This is a good compromise, though you can change springs if you want to. Should be good on track, and on road. Mellow, in his P1, had these on and blitzed most things at Oulton. Not anywhere near as good as the 50mm I have, but half the price.
http://www.dmshocks.com. Eibach springs are a good option, probably £250 for a new set - to your liking (including linear). Pillowball mounts are basically rosejointed tops - very good, but not a great idea for lots of road use. Go for the Ralliart uprated top mounts instead (I may have a set lying around somewhere).
Front top/bottom strut braces and rear strut brace make a huge difference (get the 3 point cusco ones, RC sell them). Get both lower strut braces (the 4 point AND the 2 point). Uprated bushing too. Not sure about the camber adjustability of the dms shocks - should be able to. I would run around 2.5 front and 1.25 rear camber to minimise tyre wear if you are a hard and fast driver. I am probably going to be running 4 deg front soon
. Depends if you want more tail out, etc, but generally run half camber at the rear compared to the front. With standard shocks, you can only pick between 1 and 2 deg at the front, but the rear is fully adjustable. If the DMS shocks cannot be adjusted (be surprised) then get the HKS or CUSCO top mounts at the front only - they allow adjustment of camber too (from the top).
Tyre wear depends on tyres. CUt slicks (e.g. Dunlops) aren't a problem. Best to keep a spare set of tyres for track days. Road tyres wear much quicker, but it does depend on the tyre. Soft sticky tyres, like PZero Rossos or Toyos will wear fast. P Zero assimetrico and S02s are quite hardy. S01s are very hardy, but crap. Roll is the main issue, and weight transferrence. Dropping ride height to lower roll center, and stiffening the roll resistance all helps. Stiffer anti roll bars (front and rear, cusco do them) also help. The rear is adjustable (more tail out action!).
I will be at most bookatrack circuit dates this year - including Oulton and Combe. Car won't be available for Brands unfortunately (having its GEMS fitted
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The AP brakes make a huge difference. It is true that they are less balanced with just the front, but this is more an issue if you are NOT using road tyres. What will happen is the rear will overheat, and suffer fade before the front. Best to put uprated rear pads in, and don't go too pad with pads on the front - to keep relative balance. If you put a stickier tyre, you will need to consider both rear 4 pots AND ducting to the front discs. If you go for APs, get the grooved discs, not the drilled ones (Justin can sort you out!)
So, tyre wear - depends alot on you mate - and how you drive. I predominantly use the Dunlops, and obviously my car gives them a beating - and they last a good 3 or 4 open pit days, which is excellent IMHO. A car with more roll, but less track time - should be good for 2 to 3 track days and a mix of road driving. Really hard to say.
My S01's with the original eibachs lasted 4 track days - and a set of Toyos on the first DMS setup lasted 1 hour! The DUnlop D001Js are excellent, but crap in standard water and very cold days - they are great when warm and sticky. I Use S02s on a seconds et of rims for wet days.
Whereabouts are you in the country? We could always meet up if you are not too far...
