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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
you have a new 6 rs2
you have allocated say 5000 pounds for mods
what would you do and in what order, including brakes, suspension etc..

any opinions welcome
(n.b. not including, tyres, consumables and amp; trackday and amp; driver training money - already accounted for)


cheers

Rich
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Right - let me spend your money :D

1) AP 6 pots £1500 if you get them from Justin asap
2) DMS Gold lite suspension £1500
3) Blitz Nur Spec-R, PE downpipe and de-cat (about £900 all in)
4) Blitz air filter £180
5) My remapped ECU (!) £350 to you.
6) Blitz boost controller (£400ish)
7) Front and rear cusco strut braces £400
8) Cusco lower braces (£300)

Just slightly over £5k, and you would need to fit this lot yerself.

The rest gets you a bit of labour. THat should see you to 350bhp, 330lb/ft with excellent braking and traction - superb on track. Don't spend money on more power, the brakes and suspension are the best bits. Should be good on the road too.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
1) Fit new brake pads and discs that dont warp
2) Suspension Upgrade
3) No money left, sorry :D

If you had any money left:
3) Exhaust PE downpipe Magnex SS decat, HKS Hyper Muffler
4) air filter
5) Boost controller
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Brakes - Ap 6 pot and the largest disks your wheels allow and 4 pot on the rear which I presume will come with decent hoses and brake fluid. Do both, because I have heard that front only isn't as balanced. £2500 aprox Don't forget Ralliart master cylinder support bracket.

Suspension - Eibah springs. Strut braces, 3 point on front. Grp N bushes where appropriate and /or possibly Cusco lower braces as well. If money allows, a Cusco LSD would be really nice ( see film clips on RC site).

Engine - So many routes to go! Personal recommendations would include the Hayward and Scott exhaust and don't waste money on a BOV unless you like the noise! You probably have more of an idea than I do as to what else to do ;) I will let others argue the merits of differing tuning philosophies!

Is that 5 grand yet?
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The brake recommendation are a bit uninspired. Get the Movit front and rears, decent suspension and filter/exhaust. This will fit your bill. Then drive it for a season, get used to it and fulfill your lust for more power for the next season. So you can add bit for bit till you're done.

Cheers

Mike
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am getting fed up with scoobymike always recommending Movits, Blade ans Simon APs and myself those CFTs. It gets boring!
However, my setup is cheaper and brakes much better than OEM. :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
lets just say for arguments sake that i'll be getting the AP's cos my people have them in stock and can do them tomorrow for me at a good price so therefore less hassle than movits, but not necessarily better. Dont want this thread to turn into another tuning brand war.

Keep the ideas coming - Mr Custard, Lightspeed - any opinions ?
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
turbo 1000-1200£
manifold 1000£
gems 1500£
upgrade discs and pads 600£-800£

around 5000£

or even better get a LINK ecu, FOR 800£ and you have some spare cash for cams ;)

suspension is not that bad. you can do later

maybe i am just very power orienated :D power rules to me :D :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wazzup - good idea! Never thought of that! Mind you, someone might crash it.. :(

Claudius - I agree, it is getting monotonous.

Sam - you power mad fool you ! :D Who needs brakes anyway :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Seriously though, knowing Jackal has a 340R, he will get more or a turn on with the car handling really well and braking well, than blasting in a straight line. Another way to look at it is that the car is fast enough... :D

Make it nice and stiff Jackal, you won't regret it (ooh err missus!) :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Jackal,

You are welcome to come and look at mine, and have a go in it. Am at Donington next Monday (18th Feb).
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Tony - you are right :) braking will need to be sorted pronto for both feel and amp; overall stopping power and amp; distances. Biggest let down after a lightweight is always the brakes. I am assuming that the AP's are a massive difference from standard. And i love it stiff (hence why i thought the Noble was a bit of a letdown) so upper and amp; lower struts and amp; suspension. What about pillow ball mounts - what are they and what do they do ?

Also tyre wear seems to be a major problem so create less roll and -2 deg front camber. Are there any other things you can do to help tyre wear ? How long does a set of tyres (not cut slicks) last on mix of wet and amp; dry trackdays ?

As for Donny , i was all booked in and ready to go but i have to take my car to get some bits taken off and new set of tyres put on for the next lucky owner. I can only do this on a weekday and work is tight esp. as im off that week on the Friday for Brands hatch again (was there yesterday - great day:) ). So sadly won't be able to catch up with you and your car but will be at bookatrack events in March (oulton i do believe, or cadwell/castle coombe or both - cant remember). Did you get a place at Brands on teh 22nd ?

Any more info on the DMS gold suspension - not heard of it before and seems not too expensive. Do they have a website ? I sit adjustable - don't wnat it too crazy stiff for the road. Claudius, what suspension do you reccomend ?
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Jackal

I thought of pillowball mounts but they will really cause your fillings to rattle loose. To understand (maybe I cannot explain properly!) best thing to do see them on a website. They replace the topmounts of the struts but this really does transfer a lot of the road right through the car.

However, there is a bit of a comprimise between living on the road and track, suspension wise. You mention reducing tyre wear. To do this you want to ensure that the suspension stays where it should be under load. However, in doing this, you will make it more uncomfortable for the road. That is why I suggested the Grp N bushes as you can live with those.

Back to the brakes. I really would recommend front AND back, not just front. I will be far better balanced.

Finally, and I should add that I have no proof of this, I suspect that with its stiffer body the E7 would be kinder on tyres than a 6 unless you go for the full roll cage like Blade. But I am sure you don't want to go down that route
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Don't ask claudius about suspension unless you are mad and want to spend most of your £5k on it!

The DMS gold is a 40mm single tube damper with 20 adjustable settings, and double progressive springs (350lbs I think or thereabouts). This is a good compromise, though you can change springs if you want to. Should be good on track, and on road. Mellow, in his P1, had these on and blitzed most things at Oulton. Not anywhere near as good as the 50mm I have, but half the price. http://www.dmshocks.com. Eibach springs are a good option, probably £250 for a new set - to your liking (including linear). Pillowball mounts are basically rosejointed tops - very good, but not a great idea for lots of road use. Go for the Ralliart uprated top mounts instead (I may have a set lying around somewhere).

Front top/bottom strut braces and rear strut brace make a huge difference (get the 3 point cusco ones, RC sell them). Get both lower strut braces (the 4 point AND the 2 point). Uprated bushing too. Not sure about the camber adjustability of the dms shocks - should be able to. I would run around 2.5 front and 1.25 rear camber to minimise tyre wear if you are a hard and fast driver. I am probably going to be running 4 deg front soon :D. Depends if you want more tail out, etc, but generally run half camber at the rear compared to the front. With standard shocks, you can only pick between 1 and 2 deg at the front, but the rear is fully adjustable. If the DMS shocks cannot be adjusted (be surprised) then get the HKS or CUSCO top mounts at the front only - they allow adjustment of camber too (from the top).

Tyre wear depends on tyres. CUt slicks (e.g. Dunlops) aren't a problem. Best to keep a spare set of tyres for track days. Road tyres wear much quicker, but it does depend on the tyre. Soft sticky tyres, like PZero Rossos or Toyos will wear fast. P Zero assimetrico and S02s are quite hardy. S01s are very hardy, but crap. Roll is the main issue, and weight transferrence. Dropping ride height to lower roll center, and stiffening the roll resistance all helps. Stiffer anti roll bars (front and rear, cusco do them) also help. The rear is adjustable (more tail out action!).

I will be at most bookatrack circuit dates this year - including Oulton and Combe. Car won't be available for Brands unfortunately (having its GEMS fitted :D)

The AP brakes make a huge difference. It is true that they are less balanced with just the front, but this is more an issue if you are NOT using road tyres. What will happen is the rear will overheat, and suffer fade before the front. Best to put uprated rear pads in, and don't go too pad with pads on the front - to keep relative balance. If you put a stickier tyre, you will need to consider both rear 4 pots AND ducting to the front discs. If you go for APs, get the grooved discs, not the drilled ones (Justin can sort you out!)

So, tyre wear - depends alot on you mate - and how you drive. I predominantly use the Dunlops, and obviously my car gives them a beating - and they last a good 3 or 4 open pit days, which is excellent IMHO. A car with more roll, but less track time - should be good for 2 to 3 track days and a mix of road driving. Really hard to say.

My S01's with the original eibachs lasted 4 track days - and a set of Toyos on the first DMS setup lasted 1 hour! The DUnlop D001Js are excellent, but crap in standard water and very cold days - they are great when warm and sticky. I Use S02s on a seconds et of rims for wet days.

Whereabouts are you in the country? We could always meet up if you are not too far...
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Keep boost low! Engine, transmission will not survive if you do a lot of hard driving. Get the Movit brakes front and rear. Nice suspension. And make the car lighter!

See my question 'trouble again' in the engine section.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Simon, i'll forget the pillowball mounts then. Also, want to keep with the 6 for personal taste reasons.

Blade, a lot of info for me there, i'll have to chew it over and amp; research. But DMS gold sounds very much my cup of tea especially the price :) and amp; ability to play around with the settings and also make it good for the road. Strut braces all round are becoming a must but i can't really compromise on boot space - will it be okay to do lower front and back struts but just front upper ? Stiffer anti roll bars also sounds good esp. if adjustable. As for tyres I think i'll begin with road tyres and see how i get on - as you say cut slicks will be nice with spare wet set but i'll get used to the car first. The dunlops sound like the Yokos that the 340r runs on, can't be used on codl days really - i think the dunlops are more progressive at the limit tho than A038. Should i stick with 17 wheels for convenience or will 18 s improve turn in and amp; sharpness ?

As for the tuning - would be nice just to run around 350bhp. Probably more than enuf for me - i'm more interested in having fun and esp. in wet days as opposed to getting real good times or whipping peoples @rses http://www.lancerregister.com/graphics/Wilk.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| middle >. I reckon i just want to run high boost with arp bolts and amp; uprated fuel pump just in case. Must say i do like the apexi solution that RC offer (dragon have offered me a similar thing but using blitz boost controller) 'cos its neat, transferrable to another car, has playability tweak factor and also can be used to go stage further in eth power stakes if i ever get the urge. Motec/gems would be overkill given my aspirations.

N.ring - i will read your trouble thread. Am i right in saying that a car without AYC is less likely to develop problems (transmission etc..) when tuned ? Someone told me this and that also AYC does tend to sap a bit of power so RS versions are naturally a bit quicker. Could be ###### tho.

BTW: i am in teddington middlesex Tony, near Kingston. If i don't catch you in March or at Brands then would be good to meet up. When i get my RS2 i reckon that once its run in i want to get a fair chunk of teh upgrades done immediately. Say theoretically that i end up owning the car for 2 years, then its better for it to be good/upgraded for most of that rather than half of that time. Having said that, its nice to do it all bit by bit and appreciate cumulatively where your cash has gone.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Jackal

If you want to mail me direct, I'll give you my number for a chat. I wouldn't say it on here, flame suit is at the cleaners ;)

Rgds Kevin
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
How much brake power increase do the APs give in comparison to std brakes or std with pads? In % in your opinion blade.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Claudius -tricky. At a guess, I would say at least twice as much braking -maybe more. Pretty difficult to compare. I found the standard brakes a load of ****, and the ap's awesome!
 
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