I thought your car was a special edition? Therefore would it not be prudent to find out more about your own car, to see what mods came with the car, before spending un-necessary money on it. ie/ you could already have uprated internals??
Just thought i'd better mention this.
first compression/leakdown test make sure your engine is in good shape other wise woft or worse
along with changing the oil, change the coolant as well, if the inhibitor/antifreeze ratio is too low then you will get cavitation/steam pockets, etc not good as can create hot spots, fit the lower thermostat good for a few free hps and will stress the engine less/lower intake temps (but need lower fan speed to go with it other wise too much thermal cycling under stop go), fit ralliart plug leads will increase spark energy, less chance of a miss at high power, will fire fouled plug better at low power, more durable in terms of getting hot and not perishing
uprate oil cooler or at least fit gauge
fit an egt gauge, my personal preference is in the runner for the cylinder nearest the drivers door ie at the far end of the fuel rail
uprate the fuel system at least rewire or alternatively up rate the pump
fit replacement ecu, should run straight out of box, need to decrease fueling a bit as pushes up the fuel pressure if changed pump and not changed fpr
get it mapped perfectly AT 1 BAR FIRST from data logs by doing 2000-7000 runs in 4th gear, use data trap and then download logs into computer and analyse
and then slowly increase boost .1bar (10kpa) at a time, log each time make sure o2 looks ok, check egt at 7000 (4th and 5th) and check for knocks from logs, retard ignition as necessary, experiment with octane boosters to see if they make any difference to timing
boost control system needs changing as will 'lean' on the waste gate with std setup, fit after market or use ecu one with 3 port solinoid
typically lean running and detonation destroy engine, uprated internals or not
if you do uprate internals, weigh everything as want stronger but NOT heavier as this will affect engine response, get everyting balanced and use all appropriate treatments for the various component such as polishing, nitriding, cryogenic treating, ceramic coating, shot peening, etc, etc
finally remember that the more you increase power the sooner your motor will need a rebuild and probability of something going wrong increases, if you cant pay, dont play
You don't need to up internals to get 1.6 bar. I have run it safely no probs, RC do, Custard does |PLS| lots more. I would uprate the conrod bolts, but nothing more.
Just get an Apexi boost controller, and the PE remapped ECU, or just get a GEMS or Apexi Power FC. This will let you control boost, fuel, timing. You could use a S-AFC for fuelling, but nowhere near as accurate as the PE/GEMS/Power FC.
thanks guys and thanks blade but i heard the gems is ver expensive and krautie is trying to get an apexi one for me from japan. theirs a guy selling a ralliart sports ecu remmaped for 1.4 bar would that do
my link cost $nz1500
ie 500 quid
its not rocket science
i could have got it for free but chose to pay them
i have sold my software in califonia and to the worlds leading aids clinic
some people here buy us patient management systems for millions
if i pay all this money it must be better...
this has nothing to do with engine computers although i have programmed computers for 25 years
since age 13, has made me rich
also datalogging will keep u out of trouble for a long time to come
ie my $$$xxxx blow of valve is slower???
105/105 cam timing must work my car idles like ****...no
if boosting do reliability mods first
there is nothing wrong with opening the cheque book u learn ...fast
and can pass on this info