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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I have an Evo 6 and the only extra fitted so far is a Apexi Super Intake filter.

Next item to be fitted will be a Haydon and amp; Scott exhaust.

But, what next after that. One of those Apexi fuel box thingy's ?.....

I don't want mega power, and do not want to comprimise reliability,as this is my everyday car...

Comments welcome please
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I guess an ECU would be good, maybe the Ralliart Sports ECU with a different restrictor so you get more boost and no fuel cuts...
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would say the next thing to add would be some pipework to supply cold air to your filter! At the moment your filter is sucking in hot air from under the bonnet, not ideal. Either buy a cold air box or make one up yourself out of sheet aluminium and duct some air into it from out side the engine bay. A fairly cheap mod but its often overlooked, personally I don't think there is any point fitting an after market filter without it.
This is one area where the E7 has improved on the previous Evolutions as it ducts air into the intake over the front of the radiator from outside of the engine bay. The only trouble I can see with the E7 is that the intake looks too small for my liking.
After that I suggest you fit some instrumentation to make sure everything is running right. A Boost gauge is probably a good starting point followed by Oil Temp and Pressure. Exhaust Gas Temperature is also useful if you are planning to modify your engine further.

Well that is my 2 suggestions to start you off. No doubt other people have their own ideas but I err on the side of caution, fit stuff that lets you know what the engine is doing before increasing the power. Of course don't forget the obligatory uprated con-rod bolts, better safe than sorry
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I agree with the wise HH6! Safety first, then power. For a reliable road car, I would stop at exhaust/air filter. That gives you 310-330 bhp depending on exhaust. De-cat and turbo downpipe make a big difference here. Keeping the charge temperature down is the best way to keep power consistent. So, as HH6 said, cold air intake, bigger intercooler, perhaps water injection too. No more power, but at least you will have your 330 bhp most of the time, not just on cold mornings!

I have no idea about your own abilities, so don't take this the wrong way, but in my experience the best upgrade is the driver - get some performance driving education and your road driving will improve no end! Front/rear strut braces, uprated top mounts and bushes will greatly sharpen up handling without compromising road use - makes the car more fun too. Change the tyres! S01's are not good - S03's or PZero's instead. Now that you are driving quicker, maybe upgrade the brakes too.

Once you've done all that, then start thinking about serious power mods and compromised reliability - once you go down this route, it is an expensive can of worms you are opening! Things wear out quickly enough on the standard car. All the above is within warranty limits too.

HH6, what's your opinion on where you should stop, reliability wise for tuning a road car? My guess would be 330bhp.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi guys,
I am new around here so dont shoot me if am wrong! I am in the same struggle as Mark is:What next to do? I agree with hh6 about the exhaust/filter and that cold air is really important. But if you do these mods you probably will have fuel cuts! As boost has raised by these mods the stock ecu will also give not enough fuel and you will run lean?? So isnt the easiest way to fit the Ralliart sport ecu?? This is just what I think so be kind on me!
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good point made by Blade there but often over looked.
Driver training! You can have the biggest, baddest car in the world but if you can't drive it, there is no point!
It is something that I haven't got into yet but I would desperately like to become a better driver. I think everyone thinks they are great drivers (according to statistics) but when you actually see someone driving properly on the track well it makes you look like an old granny on the shopping run http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/wink1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >
I have some in car footage of a Jap driver on a track in the wet and he was brilliant, wringing the absolute best out of the car, heel and toe, lightening fast gear changes, brilliant throttle control, excellent stuff and all in a Civic Type-R! He was driving in the wet faster than I probably could in the dry!

Anyway getting back on the mods topic one of the cheaper but more effective mods (that Blade and I missed before [img]http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/wink1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >) is actually setting the geometry up to your driving style. £60-£70 and you should see a marked improvement if done correctly.

What mods have I got?
Factory front strut brace, Mines lower cross bar, Front LSD (all on the car when I bought it) and I have fitted the Dragon Brake kit and Defi Boost gauge since buying the car. The next mod I was going for was to set up the geometry for fast road use and probably get some decent tyres (but I am selling so thats not going to happen). Not a single extra bhp added but it all improves the performance of the car considerably.

Blade,
Hmmmm.....I don't think I am the person to ask about reliabilty as my views are very blinkered and its half the reason why I am selling. I think your suggestion is perfectly reasonable though for an car in everyday use.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You are right, next you need to fit the Ralliart Sports ECU to void fuel cuts and to be able to run more boost.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How do you know the boost is raised if you don't have a boost gauge? Sure you get fuel cuts but they may only happen in winter or cold mornings in summer but you could be running 1.4bar without fuel cuts if the temperature is high enough (I was but not anymore!).
As I said before fit instruments that tell you what your engine is doing then upgrade the performance.

Fitting the Ralliart Sports ECU will eliminate the fuel cuts (raises the level to roughly what?) and provides fueling for the higher boost (I assume it does?) but if you are running over 1.3bar boost then you will also need to upgrade the con-rod bolts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Gauges.

Boost.

Air fuel ratio.

Exhaust gas temperature.

Take a look at www.roadraceengineering.com
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Mark,
The Blitz Nurspec R is better than the Hayward and Scott system.
Combine the Blitz with a turbo down pipe , I recommend Power engineering , then a still cold airbox with a battery relocation kit.
2 prevent fuel cut with a factory ecu map , use a Blitz dual solenoid boost controller , this will maintain the boost just under fuel cut point , so allowing safe maximum benefit of the above mods.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Evoboy

is there a specific reason why you recommend the blitz boost controller? I only ask this as I was looking at the EVC 4 from HKS and the Apexi stuff which looks a bit difficult to setup. I've only got the Hyper Muffler cat back but I also want to fit a decent downpipe and a relocated airbox. But before I modify the airbox I want to be sure not getting any fuel cut hence a decent boost controller. If I get bored with it I still can fit another ECU.
I also heard that the Sport ECU can run on the lean side at lows revs when building up boost. Has anyone ever heard of an engine which went bang after fitting it? Or any other problems?

Thanks

Mike
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Scoobymike,

if you're looking to fit a Motec, then forget the boost controller as that'll be chucked out anyway once you have the Motec. If you want one, you can have my Blitz SBC-id including Powermeter id once I get my Motec
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
scoobymike,
I mentioned the Blitz because I know it works and is quality kit , it has selectable audible warnings for chosen boost levels(s) and a digital readout for boost pressure.

Looks like a good offer from Micheal K
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for shedding some light on me. Was just curious if the blitz is superior to others.

Still undecided what to do. Motec or Sports ECU. Decisions, decisions....

Cheers

Mike
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The sports ecu works very well if you have an exhaust and air filter at least, and it's not too expensive if you order it from irs in Japan.

Then it depends on how much you will pay for the motec m 48 including remapping.
The motec is a better choice if you want to do some upgrades and if you will change some parts as different cams,turbo etc. as you can always remap it.

The ralliart it less expensive and I think that if you are just looking for 340bhp is a very good choice.
It's true that with a motec you can set everything but with the boost controller you can change the boost at any time from the dashboard. So why do not keep it even with a motec m48?
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The reason why not keep the boost controller is that you can map the boost curve more accurately than with a boost controller. With the Blitz SBC-id you can map it for different speeds but you only have four channels. With an ECU you can map according to speed, revs, etc... You can't even compare the two cause they're so different.

I didn't mean have the boost controller for free boys...
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi Claudius,
Where is the restrictor? Is it a restrictor on a wastegate actuator? And how does it function??!
Thank you
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi T1

the restrictor is in the small tube going down to the wastegate, yes. There is a T shaped tube thing there, and the restrictor is in the one going down to the wastegate. This is situated between the intercooler and the engine, hood open. Only open when engine is cold or you burn your hands! Even if engine cold please use gloves or you will scratch your hands and arms like I did. Ralliart supply smaller restrictors to go with the Sports ECU and air filter and exhaust. I think there is even a warranty on this.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ralliart supply smaller restrictors to go with the Sports ECU and air filter and exhaust. I think there is even a warranty on this.[/QUOTE]

Thank you Claudius,
Now I want to go to check http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/biggrin1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >
So, can I modified this restrictor with the original ECU? So I can obtain about 1,2 bar....?
If the restrictor is narrow, it's equal to have more boost, is it right?
Giammarco
 
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