[Guest]

Well my new engine is almost run in now (1700 miles, I will wait until 4000 miles before getting anywhere near to max revs). I did notice on the odd occansion while running in that I did get a few fuel cuts (no more than half a dozen at around about 4000rpm). I have had my E6 back from its first engine service (1500 mile/18000 mile service) and I have noticed that it is totally fuel cut free!
The question is why?
I know it is nothing to do with the air temp/humidity as whenever I got a fuel cut I always made a mental note of the outside air temp and the conditions (rain or dry). Since the service I have had no fuel cuts in similar outside conditions, in fact I have increased my self imposed rev limit to 5000rpm so in theroy it should be having more trouble in the same conditions?
The only change is obviously it now will have proper oil in the sump instead of thinner run-in oil and it has a new air-filter (part of the 18000 mile service, I thought they would have stuck a new air-filter in with the new engine!)

I maybe tempting fate and find a fuel cut tommorrow (I have tried to provoke a fuel cut but with no effect), it just seems weird to me! Does the new oil have any bearing on the lack of fuel cuts (I don't see how?) I must admit though I think they disconnected the battery when it was being serviced (the radio lost its presets) so perhaps the reset ECU has sorted it out? Perhaps the new air-filter has something to do with it although the old one wasn't bad?

I just can't believe that my car is sorted once and for all!
No fuel-cuts and no warped discs due to the Dragon set-up, I just need to decide if I can live with the SQUEALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL!

 

[Guest]

Hi!

Next time just go for standard brembo! I have now project µ brake pads street racing and they don't squeal a lot,but they are not really better than brembo.

For the fuel cuts,if your actuator is new,it's because sometimes you have too much boost for the standard ecu.
I get a blitz turbo timer with boost gauge(it's digital and it costs £100,so it's not much more expensive than a boost gauge!),and I make the diameter of the metal restrictor slightly bigger to set the boost pressure at around 1.2/1.3 to get good performance without fuel cuts.Now the temperature is lower and sometimes I get slight fuel cuts as the boost pressure is now at 1.31/1.38!

The thing to do is just to make the restruictor a little bigger,so if you go for a boost gauge or turbo timer it's probably the less expensive way to avoid fuel cuts!

 

[Guest]

Maxi,
I went for the Dragon set-up because they GUARANTEE no warping if fitted correctly. I did have a choice of pads Mintex or Brembo's but decided on the Mintex. They do squeal but you can almost drive around that as the squeal is not heard until the last few yards before stopping (in my case anyway) so you just have to lift off and let it roll to the final stop. Anyway I can live with it until Mintex bring out a fix as they have promised.

I just don't know why I don't have any fuel cuts now where as I did before? I am getting a boost gauge to keep a closer eye on the situation. btw what is the outside diameter, thickness and internal diameter of the hole for the metal restrictor near the wastegate? Also what is it made of? I am thinking of experimenting with some brass rod if the fuel cuts come back.

Sounds like you need a summer and winter restrictor Maxi! I know people have used a needle valve instead of a fixed restrictor but I would prefer something more solid.

Wouldn't a Boost Controller be more appropriate? I don't know how these work so they may not be ideal.

Sorry if this has been asked before.

 

[Guest]

HH6,

Theoretically, yes an electronic boost controller, when installed properly can prevent boost spikes because it lets of excess boost from its own solenoid valves (did I get it right?)

Its a popular upgrade here, much more exact than fiddling with the OEM wastegate / actuator valve. However, it SHOULD be installed properly, as you might end up getting even more boost spikes, leading to more fuel cuts.

Get an electronic boost controller with fuzzy logic (HKS EVC IV, GReddy Profec A-Spec, BLITZ DSC) or any other self-learning boost characteristic controller (like an APex'i AVC-R) as these would maximize your car's boost curve and THEORETICALLY prevent boost spikes.

Hope this helps.

 

[Guest]

Thanks Botchi,
I wondered how they controlled the boost and that explains it.

btw I have removed the restrictor from my old wastegate piping and measured it.
Its 5mm long x 5mm diameter, internal diameter looks like 1mm but I need to check. Its made from what lloks like brass.

 

[Guest]

HH6, Was your car serviced at a mits dealer and put on the mut or not,ie isc motor reset etc.
Only trying to help. ANNA.

 

[Guest]

Yep it was serviced by a Ralliart approved Mits dealer. It must have been put on a MUT-II in order for the air in AYC system to be bled on changing the fluid. It seemed weird that the battery was disconnected as I thought the MUT-II could reset the ECU without battery disconnection.
Sorry for being dumb but ISC motor?

 

[Guest]

Listen to ANNA s(he) knows the score if you know what i mean ?!?!?!

 

[Guest]

ISC - Idle Stability Control? Small stepper motor that controls idle speed.

Thats what I've always taken it to mean and thats how I refer to my knackered one

 

[Guest]

thaught you had ralliart ecu ???????