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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'v done 2000miles in my E6, and my discs have warped. I am getting a new set of discs FOC from where i got the car, but i feel it will it is only a matter of time b4 they do it again. I have read through the last 60 days of posts and will be taking it easy for as long as poss to hopefully stop this happening againe. has anyone ever has this problem in such a short space of time. I have had the car loooked at by tuning Japanese and there is no other problem. The brake set up with a bell, dose the whole thing need replacing every time or can you keep the bell and change the disc.(sorry if i'm using the wrong terminoligy)
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Yo mazyb!

When you buy discs with a separate bell and the disc is used up, you can just replace the disc and keep the bell.

When halting the car after a blast, make sure you do not keep the foot on the brake pedal, or the pad will stick to the hot disc and the disc will warp due to the difference in temparature when cooling down. If you do step on the brake pedal and keep your foot on the brakes when the brakes are hot, drive again immediately before the disc gets cold and brake as much as possible to get rid of the pads imprint on the disc and to heat the disc uniformly.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks i was aware of this already and have not kept my foot on the peddle. The warping is only between 110-80 ish |PLS| it is ok the first 2-3 times i brake and then gets worse.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
mazyb - sorry to hear about your brakes. But if you think 2000 miles is bad, I only did about 400!... Sure, those were on track days, but it sure is frustrating.

I suppose you've read all the threads around here? If so, I guess it's CTF for disks (bugger to get in the UK) or get on the current 6 week waiting list for some expensive AP6 pot kit.

I've banged some Tarox disks and Mintex 1144 pads on for the time-being to keep me going. I'll just try and brake a little softer and longer on tracks days. Also ditched the brake fluid for Catrol SRF, as the original stuff boiled and I lost me brakes completely.

If you don't do tracks days, maybe some of the cheaper options (like the Tarox, etc) with new pads/fluid might be worth looking at. Their also seem to be a few people who have had their original disks skimmed and refitted and that has cured things for them.

Hope your new FOC set of disks work out (but expect the worst if you use them hard).

Steve
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
dose the ap6 pot resolve the poroblem? I could not find any threads that say they do. Has any one gone down that road and still warped them. I was told from tuning Japanese that evo 6/7 disks dont ware out they just warp at different times. From the mesages i'v seen this is not true?
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, *apparently* the AP kit with *grooved disks* (NOT the 'drilled, holed' versions) and good cooling does seem to do the trick for hardish trackday use. My brother-in-law has just fitted a set of the drilled APs to his EVO 6 so I'm waiting to see how he gets on after a few track days. If they do the job, and I manage to warp my Mintex/Tarox set-up, then I guess I'll go the same route myself. Still, £2k on disks is a lot when you've only just bought the car!

I've got to admit, I think if you are going to do lots of track days and brake very late and hard you really need to be looking at some expensive upgrades or a lighter car. Just my two cents.

Steve
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oops. Forgot to mention that if I do go the AP route I won't used the 'drilled' disks like my bro-in-law, just the 'grooved' ones instead.

Steve
 
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