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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
want more power for my fq340 ix, its running 392bhp 380lb,tq.... its been mapped, has a nur spec r exhaust, airbox lid mod, hks bov, walbro fuel pump.

would like it around 400/400 what can i do without having it mapped again as dont have much money to spend at the min. :smthumbup

downpipes? bigger turbo elbo? ect ect???
 

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You just want a 400/400 dyno sheet really! 400 lbft on a dyno I believe will need a boost level that risks you having to spend money on repairs. Depending on what boost it holds, a 3 port solenoid for boost control might do a better job. On a similar spec I hold 1.8 bar, 1.7 bar at 6000, 1.4 bar at 7000 (I let it drop at 7000 RPM as there is no performance gain from forcing it to run 1.5 bar up there). The torque is on a different planet from when it was quoted at 391 lbft on Dyno Dynamics dyno with the usual dodgy MLR adjustments (it did 330 lbft in the same tune on Dastek), but I still don't think it is 400 lbft, yet it pulled away surprisingly easily from a car that claimed to be, and was enough to have a torque related 4th gear failure even when used with mechanical sympathy. It is enough for road use that I don't want more because it is a nice balance between the chassis, brakes, lag, response. I don't lust after another 100 BHP having had it in a lighter car that was overall less balanced. Sometimes less is more for a balanced drive, relatively worry free ownership, hassles etc.

If you don't want to remap again then leave it alone. If you do, investigate how full your boost curve is. Depending on how well it is mapped and where your figures are from, it might actually be near to optimal or a disappointment... this is why dyno figures suck, especially when they make you want to spend money you don't want to spend to get another 2% peak power that you won't feel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You just want a 400/400 dyno sheet really! 400 lbft on a dyno I believe will need a boost level that risks you having to spend money on repairs. Depending on what boost it holds, a 3 port solenoid for boost control might do a better job. On a similar spec I hold 1.8 bar, 1.7 bar at 6000, 1.4 bar at 7000 (I let it drop at 7000 RPM as there is no performance gain from forcing it to run 1.5 bar up there). The torque is on a different planet from when it was quoted at 391 lbft on Dyno Dynamics dyno with the usual dodgy MLR adjustments (it did 330 lbft in the same tune on Dastek), but I still don't think it is 400 lbft, yet it pulled away surprisingly easily from a car that claimed to be, and was enough to have a torque related 4th gear failure even when used with mechanical sympathy. It is enough for road use that I don't want more because it is a nice balance between the chassis, brakes, lag, response. I don't lust after another 100 BHP having had it in a lighter car that was overall less balanced. Sometimes less is more for a balanced drive, relatively worry free ownership, hassles etc.

If you don't want to remap again then leave it alone. If you do, investigate how full your boost curve is. Depending on how well it is mapped and where your figures are from, it might actually be near to optimal or a disappointment... this is why dyno figures suck, especially when they make you want to spend money you don't want to spend to get another 2% peak power that you won't feel.
thanks for info mate :smthumbup
 

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if you got the money go Green.
 

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Ok... lol

If you got lots of money go AMS.
 
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