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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
.... finally will get a chance to test drive a X tomorrow. :mitsi:

It's at a Honda dealer so I don't mind making a nuisance of myself and giving it (and them) a bit of a thorough going over..... but being totally new to the X... hoping members could advise of what I should look out for particularly when looking over a X (beyond the usual used-car-buying-common-sense-thoroughness).

It's one owner from new, 30K miles, 60 reg, totally standard, 330 SST.

Also - could someone point me to the link which lists the differences between the X trim/tune levels... sure I saw one a while back. :smthumbup
 

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hi,just checked the listing at newton honda,it says its a fq300,is it a fq300 or a fq330,as the fq330 has a hks pack which includes turbo back hks exhaust system with a hks sports cat,hks piping under the bonnet,plus a remap,to get a extra 30bhp,if it is a fq330,make sure you get the original certificate saying its been uprated by factory,but it wont stay standard long,i can assure you:smthumbup,hope this has been a help,rgds julian
 

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Make sure you boot it on the test drive, many have had aftermarket air intakes, then they put back to standard which can blow the MAF, ask if the CMC recall has been done, in fact all recalls,

Personally I would try buy one off here that has had all the upgrades done, could save you a fortune in the future.

Happy Hunting:D
 

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also make sure the warranty will cover the gearbox fully, the ayc pump fully, as they are the two areas which are likely to let you down. especially at 30k miles. If the ayc pump hasnt been done, it'll need doing very soon as very few make it past that mileage without overhaul. Its a £1500 bill for a new one at least.
 

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a few things you should check..

normal evo stuff really

All three AYC lights aren't permanently on and you can toggle through Tarmac/Gravel/snow

put full lock on and reverse slowly and listen for any suspension knocking from the front top mounts. Do this on both locks. (this is a common fault with the OEM suspension)

whilst the engine is running lift up the bonnet and listen for any tapping, especially from the back as another common fault is the OEM manifold likes to crack on the 2nd branch from the left. You wont be able to see it due to the heat sheid but if its cracked you should hear it blowing.

check the idle as well, MAF sensor failure is another common one. Before both of mine went pop I experienced dodgy idle and revs hunting before the CEL light came on.
 

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Check the seats up by the holes for harnesses, The come away from their and you can see the staples. Other than that what the others said :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well it's def a 330 - has HKS hard pipes, exhaust etc... but no certificate. No noises anywhere, checked all items mentioned above - seems sorted.
And seemed to have all recalls except the most recent CNC....

Had clutch packs replaced at 24K and timing chain at the same time.... is that usual?

Revs were hunting a little bit on cold start at idle..... (normal?)
But once warmed up seemed ok.
 

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Well it's def a 330 - has HKS hard pipes, exhaust etc... but no certificate. No noises anywhere, checked all items mentioned above - seems sorted.
And seemed to have all recalls except the most recent CNC....

Had clutch packs replaced at 24K and timing chain at the same time.... is that usual?

Revs were hunting a little bit on cold start at idle..... (normal?)
But once warmed up seemed ok.
The original t chain was prone to stretch and trigger a fault code when the parameters were exceeded. The replacement chain should be an uprated version which is a more robust item. Quite a few owners have experienced stretched chains or fitted an uprated chain as a precaution, myself included.
 

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Well it's def a 330 - has HKS hard pipes, exhaust etc... but no certificate. No noises anywhere, checked all items mentioned above - seems sorted.
And seemed to have all recalls except the most recent CNC....

Had clutch packs replaced at 24K and timing chain at the same time.... is that usual?

Revs were hunting a little bit on cold start at idle..... (normal?)
But once warmed up seemed ok.
Normal :thumbup:

The original t chain was prone to stretch and trigger a fault code when the parameters were exceeded. The replacement chain should be an uprated version which is a more robust item. Quite a few owners have experienced stretched chains or fitted an uprated chain as a precaution, myself included.
Yes it sounds like the previous owner has looked after the car and taken extra precautions by getting the chain done. I wonder if he also got the diff pins done as well?

Sounds like a good car mate.
 

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Thanks Brian - appreciate the intel. Would it be indicated on the service invoice if the new chain is the uprated version? Any idea about the clutch packs?

EDIT: will check on the diff pins also... :smthumbup
Were the clutch packs and chain replaced under warranty by a main dealer?
 

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Yes, Mitsi dealer in the midlands. Last year I think - last service but one.
Then I would expect the chain to be the uprated version. The clutch packs would indicate a slipping issue under load. Is the car still a standard 330 version with no power upgrades/mapping?
 
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