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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
please could some one help me before 3 0 clock (going to mistsi garage then)

i have not been out in my evo 6 (gsr) since last sunday , any way i was on my way out about 30 mins ago and i drove around 3 moles from my house off boost like normal , then i went to pass some parked cars while the was a small gap in the oncoming traffic so i put my foot down and the car started to go then cut out (killed the ignition )because i was still moving it restarted and i pulled up down a side street , i try reving the car and it will not make any positive pressure (hks boost gauge)

i drove it home and on the way home it would make normall boost , when i put it back in my shed to take a look at it it will not make any possitve pressure , only a couple of psi at aroung 6500 rpm .

so i suspected one of two things , either the turbo has broke ? or the acctuator has broke/ sized

so what i want to know is does the acctuator move enougth distance for you to be able to see it move i have shone a tourch on the acctuator and reved the car from under the bonney (reved very hard and hit limmiter)and i could not see the acctuator move at all .

could this be my problem ? its going in to the dealers at 3:30 but they only have one mechanic on today so all he can do is run a diagnostic cheack , is he likly to find if there is an acctuator problem

cheers for any help people

p.s the acctuator does look a little rusty on the rod ,

(it would have only cost mitsi a few pence to fit a seal on that rod and would solve the problem )

Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Going from what you said with the ignition cutting out, it sounds like you have had an overboost problem.
The ECU detects too much boost and cuts off fuel to protect the engine.
Revving the engine with no load will only result in slight pressure registering on your boost gauge. I suggest you ask your dealer to check your actuator, it may be sticking if you say it has gone rusty. And also to check your boost pressure. The standard pressure is 0.9bar.

Hope this helps.

Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The problem is driving around moles, their s**t gets in the air intake and makes the engine stall! :D

Sorry, doesn't help at all really does it? I haven't got a clue as I know nothing technical about these engines at all, just thought it funny you drove round some moles, was it slalom fashion? :)

Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Like FAVile says it sounds like overboost or fuel cut! The engine won't give a boost reading when revving stationary anyway, it will only do it under load ie in gear going along!
If it has never done it before then maybe something isn't right but if you've got an air filter and exhaust or similar mods then apparently the car should be boosting near its limit without changes to the ecu anyway.

I can't really give you any detailed explanations apart from that it does sound very much like fuel cut or overboosting which I used to get in my Subaru.


Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Probably a bit late to comment now as you have no doubt taken it to the dealer but I will give my two pence worth.

It could be a couple of things. It could just be a plain old fuel cut due to the cold weather or it could also be a fuel cut but this time because the wastegate actuator rod has rusted up over the week you have left it and created an overboost situation. Once the rod had moved (probably shifted due to the jerk of the fuel cut and the boost pressure against the diaphragm) then it operated normally again.
This is only pure guess work though but given you have said the rod looked rusty and the car has been sitting about for a week then it could be the likely problem. Other people have reported the problem with the rusty actuator before.
As other people have said above the actuator will not move (you will get no boost) when the car is stationary, the ECU only allows boost to build when the engine is under load. That explains why you got normal boost while driving but nothing while stationary.

You can test the actuator operation but you need a pressure pump that can go up to 100kPa, take the hose to actuator off and connect the pressure pump, pump upto about 100kPa and you will see the actuator rod move. It will only move about 5mm. I suspect that will be the first thing the garage will check to see if it's moving freely then again they may just see the rust and say replace it! If you have experienced it once then it is worth replacing it, it may be OK now but it will happen again.
Of course that is assuming that is what the problem is!

By the way I agree on the design of the actuator being naff, not so much the actual design of it but it's position, upside down directly under the vent in the bonnet. Water from above and from the road will run down the actuator rod straight into the diaghragm where it will rust. Heat from the turbo should keep it at bay for a while but if a car is left outside all it's life then look for early replacement of the actuator (just speculating!).

Anyway let me know how you get on, as I said I am only guessing so it would be interesting to know the official verdict!
(Should it come to it a new Actuator is roughly £180|PLS|VAT I believe.)

Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Cud have been a stuck wastegate valve , the 1 actually in the turbo exhaust housing. Not unusual after standing 4 a while.

I wouldn't worry 2 much , just drive around until the engine is at full temp then try some hard acceleration 2 check if it performs as previously.

Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Cheers every one .
from what you have all said it sound as if it was fuel cut , its a bit harsh isnt it !

any way before i even got to the dealers the car was back to normal but the dealers did a diagnostic cheak any way to see if it had stored any faults , and it has stored a fault with the speedo head sensor .
which will be replaced under waranty (only just had the speed convertor changed 2 weeks ago )

cheers for your help esspecially hh6 who mailed me .

i knew some one off here would be able to help
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