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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just fitted a new HKS super blow of valve, but now i think the car comes on full boost a lot later. The light on the dash which indicates full boost comes on later then it did before i fitted it, i think. Also when im stood still should the light come on when i floor the pedal, as no light comes on and I carnt remeber if it did before i fitted the new valve.
Also the BOV isnot making any noise any more, the bolt on the back has been tighted fully, has this damaged the valve by hitting the spring inside.
Help i dont know whats wrong!!!!

Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The light is set to come on at ~0.2bar and it won't come on when you are sitting still, the engine needs to be under load to produce boost.

I don't know about the HKS valve, but it cannot be any worse than the standard item unless fitted/adjusted incorrectly. What does the manual say about adjusting it? Ususally it's something like 'wind full out and then tighten until it works properly'. Have you done this?

It might be that you have an air leak. Have you rechecked all hoses?

Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sorry Maxi, the boost light is on a need to know basis border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >

Seriously, the 1800GSR/RS has a little icon of a turbo on the dash ([img] ) that lights up when on boost. This seems to have been fitted in lieu of a boost gauge and is quite natty. I used to have it in my sig, might do again...

Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Al,
I suggest you losen the bolt to reduce the preload on the spring, Your car wont be able to create enough boost to open it fully tightened. Wind the bolt loose, the best thing to do is a bit of trial and error loosen it drive the car see the difference and when ur happy with it leave it as it is OR fully losen the bolt drive the car and see the difference. Tighten it slighty to see if it is better than when fully unwound. When u get it right you will be very pleased.

Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the advice, I loosened the bolt and I got the noise back again (Girlfriend now not happy, thinks I now drive a bus). Also I get to scare small children and animals.

The car now seems to pull so much better with the SQV on, however dosnt seem to rev to limit as easily as it did, but this seems to be made up by the fact the car now seems to hold boost for longer.

Chunky, have you ever thought that the light on our dash is for changing gear, tomorrow I will try and drive at full pace and changing up when the light comes on. Just a thought.

The next stage is the HKS power flow filter which would have been on the car now if co-orsport had given me the right one in the first place. Very hard to fit one that should that have been for a Impreza STI, I tried for an hour, then looked at the box and in all the Japenese was the words WRX.Dooohhhh
Tell you what its like when I put the new filter on.

Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Good to see you have sorted the BOV problem - I was begining to think you'd forgot to fit the small pipe from the inlet manifold

Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Does the light come on full boost then.
I dont know but ever since I fitted the BOV the light seems to come one later than it did before with the old SE one.
Would try the old one but I broke it, the plastic was fatigue and so when i pulled the pipe off from the manifold the plastic tip came with it.
May be its just me having a bad day, but im sure its different now. The car also seems a bit more jerky as well.
Has anyone noticed anything else occuring to the way the car behaves since fitting a BOV, just so I stop worrying and waiting for the next thing to happen.

Discussion Starter · #11 ·

Sorry, I'm in mong mode today border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >, I assume you mean 'how do you get the light on the dash?', yes?

AFAIK the light is only on the 1800GSR/RS, even the E1 doesn't have it.

Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Why do you think we have one though. They only time i really look at it is on start up, the rest of the time im looking at the road or the ref counter.

Do you know where the sensor is fitted for the light, could you run a boost gauge directly of it, just a thought.

Getting a Whiteline works package along with front and rear struts, its offical. (so there Andrew, so stop nagging me!!!!!!!). Hopefully have it fitted when for Castle combe, should be fun.
Next is a new exhaust and may be sort the brakes out, important that bit.

Discussion Starter · #13 ·

It's not just the 1800's that have the light, mine has one on the dash also border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle > .


If you wire a boost gauge up to the switch, it would be the same as wiring it direct to a 12 volt battery - it will act like an on off switch. I presume it's fitted as a very cheap option to a boost gauge but as I mentioned before it comes on as soon as the car starts making positive boost.

The driving problems you're getting now are common for a vent to atmosphere dump valve. The ECU knows how much air has passed through it but your little gizmo dumps some of this air when you change gear and lets in a little extra air when you're on the over run or on idle. The ECU is fueling for what went past the air flow meter rather than what's actually getting to the engine.

Discussion Starter · #15 ·
RS pilot,
The light only comes on when the cars feels like its hit full boost, i will experiment tomorrow. The problem is the cars only been driven in heavy traffic this week since fitting the new BOV.

Fitting the super flow air filter should reduce the over fueling problems i think. The ECU carnt be that exact as it would have to take all the following into consideration.

1)Air temp
2)Engine temp
3)Outside air pressure
4)Exact pressure in manifold
5)Exact pressure at turbo
6)Temp in manifold
7)Temp at turb
8)Length of time the dump valve is open

The car measures some of the above but not all. The accuracy needed is too great. I agree its now over fueling but thats nothing new.
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