On the front put it under the brace that is in the centre and runs front to back in front of the engine. I did this with a bit of wood to distribute load for my gear oil change. No probs except my jack seals are ####ed and it squirts oil out all over the drive.
At the back I can't remember what the manual says. Back axle is normally a good bet but i dunno on an Evo.
Yep, the front is how Oli described it. You can lift the whole front up that way. You can lift the rear at the diff. These are both benefits of having a rally-bred car. Always advisable to put some wood inbetween unless you have one of those fancy professional jacks with the cushioning, but you new that probably anyway.
errmmm, my car was jacked up on the big Aluminium block which I presume is the diff, by a WRC mechanic. Unless I'm mistaken in the part (I'm quite sure it is the diff, as that's where the rear driveshafts go into), the diff is where my car has been jacked up on many a time, also for long periods. No problems. What's supposed to go wrong then? I would've thought the mechanic knew what he was doing...
Also just checked the Workshop manual, the rear diff. is marked as a jacking point with a big circle. There is also the one Evoboy mentioned, but nothing wrong with using the diff I'm afraid. All in all there's three, the one in the front that's been described, the rear diff and the one behind the rear towing eye. Evoboy, the diff is not floating between the axles, you know. With the forces it has to deal with it needs rather solid mounting. With the diff there is one thing that you have to look out for. In the WSM it says Never support the rear floor crossmember. This basically means that you have to make sure that the only thing that's being lifted is the diff and that you don't put any pressure on the crossmember.
Personally I wud disregard the manual on this 1 .
Once had a Merc jacked on the diff , a cast iron cased 1 at that , this distorted the case and the diff began 2 whine within 500 miles , cure , new diff
The Evo has an alloy diff case and I am totally unconvinced that damage 2 the diff wud not occur if used as a jacking point.
I know the Merc was heavier , but the diff case was cast iron , it distorted all the same.
Use the towing eye or the flat section behind it , no chance of it ending in tears then
Like I said, my car's been jacked up on the diff at the back a few times and I'm quite sure it's o.k. as the manual says it and a WRC mechanic did it. I don't think either one would be wrong. The Evo isn't a Mercedes and all cars will be designed differently. One consideration in the Evo design is the possibility to service the car quickly, hence the jacking point in the front which you won't find on many cars and I would think the diff as a jacking point is there for the same reason, cause the car is perfectly balanced and all parts (except the diff of course) at the rear are easily accessible. Always use axle stands as safety though.
Micheal, do you normally put the axle stands on the suspension arms directly under the hub (with wheel off) or somewhere else? What I'm worried about is bending one of the alloy lower suspension arms.
As you say access is amazing on an evo. i remember a mate had a 20v Audi Quattro. The under bonnet space was scarily packed out. Any job would have been a nightmare of removing half of the peripherals to gain access to the offending part.
Don't use the suspension arms!! I put the axle stands on the lifting point behind the wheel, where the leg is joined with the front (a bit of bad explanation) but always use some wood inbetween cause although that's where the car is supposed to be lifted it can bend a little bit if you lift it with the metal part of the jack and also the underseal can be damaged. On the rear it's again where the leg is joined with the rear, this time the point is before the tire. You can lift the car up with four stands if you want to that way and take all wheels off, which can be handy when you swap them around.