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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am from Spain and I have a standard Evo 5.My problem is that when I leave the car ticking over, after driving it for some time,I hear a noise (tac,tac,tac,tac)which seems to come from the inlet mainfolds or near them.I can hear the noise for some seconds and it stops,some seconds later it starts again.It only happens after driving the car.
I think the noise doesn´t come from inside the engine because it works perfectly.
Is this a common noise in the Evos?,Could it come from thegear box or the clutch?

Congratulations for having this club and this fantastic web page.I wish we had this club and relation-ship among Evo owners in Spain.

Please help me and thanks for all.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I also have the same problem on my 1.8 GSR, does the noise disappear if you rev the engine slighty. I have noticed it for quite a while now, but as yet nothing has happened to the engine.
Could it be piston slap!!!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The noise doesn´t disappear when I rev the engine.It used to disappear when I pushed the cutch pedal ,but yesterday didn´t disappear.
Has the car any electronic relay which can make this noise?.I don´t know what can it be.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just thought as you said as its near the inlet manifold its probably the injectors which are noisey on my car as well. Dont understand why the noise would go and come back though, dont understand the clutch.
Does the car still drive OK?
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ahh, the ole tappet topic. Again!

If only the bloody forum wouldn't keep going titsup we could have a good point of reference for this one, as it is though I'll go through it again. this time though I'll save the explanation as a text file so I don't have to type it ever again! (Not your fault Willy, we really should have a FAQ!)

The noise is caused by a buildup of crud inside the hydraulic tappets (or lifters) that are driven by the camshafts and act on the valves. The design and it's flaws are common to most Mitsubishi engines. By sticking and not fully filling with oil they make the characteristic ticking sound you describe. Most if not all Evos are thus afflicted with 'the tickies' as my girlfriend calls them.

Is it damaging my engine? , I hear you ask - the answer is no, not really. Although the problem can affect engines as young as 5000 miles and can be heard on engines that have done more than 100000 miles there is no indication of long term damage. The worst that can happen is mushrooming of the valve stem, but according to our learn'd friends at dsm.org this is only likely to happen if the engine is subject to long periods of extreme use e.g. frequent track use or rallying. Even then it is incremental damage, you'd have to drive like this for a while before any degradation would be noticed.

What can I do about them then? is obviously the next thing on your mind. Well, you can change them, clean them or just try and live with it! I'll go through your options:

1) Change the tappets - Identifiying the problem tappets is not as easy as it sounds, the racket of the drivetrain making it hard to pick the duff ones out. Last time I checked a single tappet (you have 16 of them) was about £20, so you're looking at a £300|PLS| bill if you want to replace the lot, plus associated other charges. Whether you try to identify the offending tappets or just replace the lot, this can be judged as an moderate-to-very expensive excercise in futility: some have tried this and found the problem back within a few thousand miles! Not really the route I'd go.

2) Clean them - There is a well documented procedure for cleaning the tappets, expect a busy afternoon and oil under your fingernails. The procedure is for a DSM 4G63, but the Evos are almost identical. the thing is, you're not solving the problem with this one either - the noise is almost bound to come back at some point. Which leads us on to...

3) Live with it! - It'll not surprise you to learn that this is what most of us do. Unless the noise manifests itself all the time and doesn't even quieten after an oil change you probably don't have to worry. If you have excessive noise then it may be that some of you oil pathways are blocked, starving the top of your engine of oil. I use the noise as a sign that my oil needs changing. Most of the time you should only get a few minutes of noise after startup and maybe the occasional light tick at a set of lights.

To minimise the noise use a good quality oil of not less than 15w40, the commonly available synthetics (Mobil 1 etc.) in 0w40 ro 5w40 grades are too 'thin' and can make the problem a lot worse. Castrol RS 15w50 used to be the oil of choice around here, although they seem to have stopped making it http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/sad1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle > Also, some say that cheaper oil filters lack the anti-drainback flap the the Mitsubishi and most decent filters have, meaning that the oil in the top of the engine drains down to the crankcase overnight, leaving the top end 'dry'.

Regular oil changes (at least following the recommended service interval) help too, as does minimising the time the engine is left idling, though this needs to be balanced with providing the turbo time to cool down after a run. In general 30sec-1min is enough.

Rest easy then, we are all in the same boat! Have I missed anything? Hope not!
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
-SilverRs.Thanks for answer me.My car still drives OK,when I drive it I don´t fell or hear anything odd or wrong,everything is Ok.I only hear the noise when I stop the car and I am waiting a pair of minutes to stop the engine.
-Chunky,thank you very much for your answer and detailed explanation.
If I have undertood your good explanation,the problem is that there is a lack of oil in the top of the engine,in the hydraulic tappets.So I might hear it louder,or almost hear it,when I start up the engine after several days stopped;but when I start up the engine it sounds like an angel.I only hear the noise after driving the car and the engine is warm(hot).
Can the noise have another explanation?
My brother told me that it can be a piece which pushes the clutch(I don´t know how to call this piece, it is as a ring which is between the box and the clutch,I hope you can understand what piece I mean)he told me that the noise can be made by the looseness of this piece,there is a vibration of this piece.He has seen this problem in other cars.
What do you think about it?
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
-Chunky,why must I minimising the time the engine is left idling?.After driving the car very fast I usually leave it for 5 minutes.Is it bad for the engine?
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ditto to Chunky,
I also put a long explaination on here of the Tappets noise and how to cure it (its the lash adjusters that are the problem). Easiest way to cure it is to change the oil but if it doesn't go after that then you may have a faulty/stuck lash adjuster.
Do you get the noise on starting the engine from cold or after leaving it to stand for a while?

I think I will write an article for the club mag on cleaning the lash adjusters with pictures as I have my old clyinder head to play with.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
When I start up the engine from cold I don´t hear any noise,I only hear the noise when after driving it I´m waiting some minutes to stop the engine.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Willy,

Although the tappets are the most likely cause for this noise on the EVO engine, I also have had cars which have rattled on tick over with the noise going away as soon as the clutch is applied. This is just the gears rattling due to lash etc. You would notice it more when the engine was warm as the gears rattle more as the engine revs get lower. When starting from cold, the ECM raises the idle speed so the noise would be less noticeable then if you get my drift. Your friend might be talking about the clutch thrustbearing ticking away - never known this but not saying it's not possible.

Ref oil viscosities - I'm running 5W 40 oil with no tappet noise (well maybe 1 - 2 seconds on start-up but don't think that's unusual), but would have rather put in Mitsi's recommended 10W 30.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Evowilly - The lack of noise on startup followed by the usual racket http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/happy1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle > is consistent with the tappet problem.

HH6 - Good idea about the magazine article, and as you say you're just the fella what with all the spare bits you must have lying around [img]http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/happy1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Chunky is exactly right : there seesm to be no logic to the rattle and it will come-and-go as it likes !

Changing the oil might help, and certainaly the best I'd found was castrol RS thats no longer made in the old grade. Recently have tried Valvoline TurboV which seems betetr than some, but the problem never actually goes away, you thjink it has and then you'll stop at the 'lights and there it is again !

The magazine article with some photos of it being done (on an EVO) would be a great idea ; incidentally, Graham Goodes are now stocking replacement followers at about £14:00 each ( x 16 No. of course !) because they know they can sell them !!
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'VE HAD THIS PROBLEM FOR @ 4 MONTHS DESPITE CHANGING THE OIL SEVERAL TIMES.I GET A DIFFERENT ANSWER EVERY TIME I RING RALLIART AS TO WHICH OIL TO USE.THE PROBLEM STARTED WHEN I PUT IN MOBIL 1 MOTORSPORT 15W 50(AS RECOMMENDED BY POWER),RALLIART TOLD ME THIS WAS TOO SLIPPY FOR EVO'S AND THAT THEY RECOMMENDED CASTROL MAGNATEC IN THEIR CARS,BUT MY LOCAL MITSI DEALER TOLD ME TO STEER CLEAR OF MAGNATEC,BECAUSE THEY'D HAD NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS WITH IT,AND THAT THEY RECOMMENDED ESSO SEMI-SYNTHETIC 10W 40.BY THIS TIME I HAD A SHELF FULL OF DIFFERENT OILS.THEN YESTERDAY I THOUGHT I'LL TRY THE MAGNATEC AS THE ESSO HADN'T WORKED.AFTER THE CHANGE THE TICKING WAS STILL THERE FLOATING IN AND OUT,SO MY LOCAL MAN SUGESTED TEXACO ENERGY 10W 30 AS THIS HAD CURED A SIMILAR PROBLEM WITH A MITSI FTO.SO WE FLUSHED IT PUT ON ANOTHER NEW FILTER AND RAN IT FOR @ 5 MILES AND LEFT IT OVERNIGHT.TODAY THE CAR SOUNDED LIKE AN ESCORT DIESEL ,SO I RANG RALLIART AGAIN WHO SAID USE CASTROL RS(STILL ON THE SHELF OF COURSE),BUT THAT IT SOUNDED LIKE I NEEDED NEW ADJUSTERS.SO I BIT THE BULLET AND ORDERED THEM £17.88 |PLS| VAT EACH (LESS TRADE 10%IF YOU ASK)FOR NEXT DAY DELIVERY.WHEN I RANG BACK TO CONFIRM MY FAXED ORDER I SPOKE TO SOMEONE ELSE WHO SAID I SHOULD HAVE USED MAGNATEC NOT RS UNLESS IT HAD USED RS FROM NEW AS THEY FOUND THIS WORKED.OH B!!!!!!S I THOUGHT.SO WHILST WAITING FOR MY NEW ADJUSTERS I DROPPED THE 10W 30'S
AS I DIDN'T WANT TO RESTART THE ENGINE WITH IT TAPPING,WENT AND BOUGHT SOME OF THAT NEW VALVOLINE MAXLIFE 10W 40 OIL FOR CARS WITH HIGHER MILEAGE(EVEN THOUGH MINES ONLY DONE 18k).YES YOU'VE GUESSED IT,AND YOU CAN IMAGINE HOW I LAUGHED,THE B!!!!!D THING IS NOW QUIET AS A MOUSE.SO I GUESS THERE WILL BE A SET OF LASH ADJUSTERS FOR SALE ON HERE TOMORROW.
HOPE THIS HELPS ANYBODY ELSE WHO IS HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM.
CHEERS
GARY
P.S APPARENTLY TEXACO ARE DEVELOPING A NEW 10W 60 ESPECIALLY FOR THE MITSI RALLY TEAM FOR THIS VERY PROBLEM,SO MY FRIEND AT TEXACO TELLS ME.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I cannot understand how can some dealers or tuners recommend for the evo a semi synthetic oil!!!
I'm not saying that a cheaper oil will cause some problems,but if you really want to go for the best possible oil I don't think that a semi synthetic oil can be the right choice.

If you don't go for a full good quality synthetic oil for a evo,what car will need it?
I use always castrol rs 10w60 and for the moment I find it without problems in France.
I think that it's better for the evo to go for a high grade oil.
If you don't find the castrol rs 10w60 just buy the mobil 1 15w50 or the motul 15w50 or any other 15w50 or 10w60 full synt!

Off course any good brand synthetic oil like 10w40 shell,agip,elf,bp or others will be ok as they are already good oils but I don't believe that the best possible one is the castrol magnatec or one of these!
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thank you for your ideas and advices.If it really is a tappet problem which is common among evos´ engines and there´s no danger in it,I think that I´ll live with the noise.
THANKS.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The Castrol thread has been discussed a few times on the Scoobynet BBS.
Castrol still make the 10w60 grade, its just that not many places stock it.
PartCo or Halfords can order it.

jon

http://www.turbocharger.co.uk/
 
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