Lancer Register Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts
G

·
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got my first lancer after selling the impreza wrx..Now I'm not use to the engine noise .It sounds a bit tappety,Do they all sound like this.Its a Evo 4 with 50000 miles on the clock.Its been on fully synthetic oil since its birth,could the thinner oil be the reason?? I'm new to owning a Lancer evolution (got it on Sunday) so could anybody give me some pointers on Oil,Servicing Intervals etcetc...
Please Help
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Delboy,

Don't worry, most of them sound tappety. There have been a few threads on how to stop this - seem like using the best oil you can will help eg Castrol RS 10W/60 or Mobil 1 15W/50, but no guaranteed cures. Don't use the really thin stuff like 0W/40, apparently its too thin for turbo engines.

Service wise, not sure about the IV but probably every 4,500 like V's and VI's.

Steve.
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Steve.
I use to run the Impreza on mobil 1 motorsport 15w 50 .I'll probably start using that in my new motor.
Thanks for the advice..
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
try using octane booster to clean combustion chambers valve seats and injectors. combats pinking and pre-ignition reduces carburettor icing. try millers or silkolene pro boost.
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Tappet noise is normal at start up but if it does not go fairly quickly then you may have a common problem with the lash adjusters in the hydraulic tappet.
I looked into the tappet noise problem after I thought that I had a valve go or tappet collapse on my engine only to find it to be more serious and completely different problem.
The problem with the tappets is the lash adjuster gets air trapped in the high pressure chamber and compresses thus reducing the lash adjuster movement. It then cannot take up the 'free play' in the roller rocker when the valve is openning and you get the tappet noise (who ever said they weren't roller rockers then read the workshop manual).

Air gets into the high-pressure chamber in several ways:

If the engine oil level is low, air is taken in through the oil screen, entering the oil passage.
If the oil level is too high, the crank agitates the oil causing the oil to trap large amounts of air.
Air does not easily seperate from deteriorated oil that can contain an increase air amount.

There are other less common situations when air might enter the high-pressure chamber:

If the vehicle is parked on a slope for a long time the amount of oil in the lash adjuster will decrease causing air to enter the high-pressure chamber when the engine is started.
After the vehicle is parked for a long time, oil drains out of the oil passge and it takes along time for the oil to reach the lash adjuster. This can cause air to get in the high-pressure chamber.

In all cases to clear the air from the lash adjusters do the following:

Start the engine and carry out several cycles of mild racing (10 or less). By mild racing I mean gradually increase the engine speed from idle to 3,000rpm over a 30 second period and then reduce it down to idle again over another 30 second period. As you can see mild racing will not harm a cold engine. If the noise is gone after racing it indicates that the air has been released from the high-pressure chamber restoring the lash adjuster to normal operating conditions.

If you keep getting the problem then check your oil level or change it if its dirty. Obviously using thinner oil will mean that it will drain quicker from the lash adjusters hence Mitsubishi recommend 10W-30 oil and no thinner.

If you still get the problem (tappet noise continues all the time) then you can try cleaning the lash adjusters or it is possible that one may have failed in which case you will need a replacement.

Information on the Lash adjuster check (shown above) is in the E4/5 WSM pages 11-5 to 11-6
Information on cleaning the Lash adjusters is in the E6 WSM pages 11-40 to 11-42
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi!

I've noticed some tappet noise in my evo sometimes but a strange thing is that if it's noisy when the car it's cold and it's idling to warm up,It will stay noisy for let's say one minute.
If when I start the car and there is some noise,I turn it off and then on again,the tappet noise is gone!
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi!

I've noticed some tappet noise in my evo sometimes but a strange thing is that if it's noisy when the car it's cold and it's idling to warm up,It will stay noisy for let's say one minute.
If when I start the car and there is some noise,I turn it off and then on again,the tappet noise is gone!
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
HH6,what do you think about engine addictive products with PTFE,would they reduce the noise?
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
HH6.

I bet youv'e read war and peace front to back ? hehehe.
I was looking at the lash adjuster problems ,when you posted your engine problem .
I can get to grips with most in the manuals .I may set a question and answer page on electrics.
buggered if I can understand it.I changed a two way light switch in my house once ,only to call my electician mate to put all the lights back into sequence.


cheers

paul s
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Maxi, I think that may be normal (?!) as I use the same method. If I start the car and the tappet starts up (it isn't noisy every time - it depends homw long its been since I ran it -sometimes it can be a week) I can leave it idling and it disappears after about 30 seconds or less. If I turn off the engine, wait a tick and then start it up there is no tappet noise.
As its being doing this since I got it over a year and 16000miles ago I'm just leaving it alone and changing the oil every 3000miles.
TonyC
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Whew!!!

And I thought I was f***d again! As some of you now, I just had my engine rebuilt, and yep, the sound was still there. My mechanic had told me that since I don't race, it's OK, and that the tappets would last forever. But he did tell me that if I were to race the E4, I should think of replacing them soon as the effects of racing are exponential to the deterioration of parts. BS or not, I'll take up his advice soon, as I wanna join some hillclimb events soon.!

Again, many thanks for alleviating my worries! |EQU|)

Botchi
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Jeesuss,you guys know your stuff.
Just checked the oil level after car has been warmed up and amp; ive found the oil level to be below the bottom cutout in the dipstick!!Should this be between the 2 cutouts as per my old subaru??
Also is the water injection fed from the washer bottle ?as ive searched high and low to find a separate top up bottle!!
Please forgive me if i sound like a muppet but i only got the car on Sunday???
Are there any other things i should watch out for on my evo that are common problems?(apart from speeding fines!!!)
Thanks guys for your help!!
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hehe shorty!
I have looked through most of the wiring diagrams and scratched my head a few times even though I work for the Electrification Technical Section of Balfour Beatty Rail!
I don't recommend PTFE products after I added Slick 50 to my engine before it went bang. I am not saying that Slick 50 caused the problem! In fact, I thought it actually cured the tappet noise until it came back again 3000 miles later. The fact that PTFE has particles in it doesn't help out the lash adjusters as I think they will clog them up more easily. Fitting a new engine may be a drastic way of getting rid of Slick 50 but it works for me (joking!)
If you do get tappet noise and it won't go away after a minute or two then check your oil levels or change it as it is probably getting too old (air in it). When you change the oil it will purr like a kitten just remember not to use that thin crap!
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have done 14000 miles on my Evo4 with Slick50 added 14000 miles ago.

My engine is TOTALLY quiet in the tappet dept. I always fill my car with Mobil 1 15w50 motorsport or more recently Millers 5w40 XFS. I always overfill my engine oil level by 2-3MM over the highest notch. The only time my car was tappety from cold was when i first got it and the level was half way between the 2 marks on the dipstick.

Slick50 works for me and always has done in every car I have ever owned (6 -ish) I had 20 company cars but I never bothered with them cos I worked for a Toyota garage.

Jonathan
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top