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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Car should apparently be running 1.5 bar. When I got it, it was running 1.2, now I'm lucky to get 0.9.

Was running an AVCR but have since put a dawes device in to rule things out. Atm the bleed valve is wound shut, yet it still won't boost up.

Done leak test, atm, can only hear a small hiss from the throttle body but doubt this would account for the massive drop.

Just found out I had a forge actuator, full of water and corroded everywhere but even it it was rusted shut that would help with boost as opposed to being rusted open and leaking. It's been blasted, cleaned and reassembled anyway.

Don't fancy taking the elbow off, feels like all the bolts will snap and when you move the wastegate arms, sounds like it taps shut.

Bit lost on what else to check?

Edit to add, doesn't seem any massive play to turbo shaft, feels pretty tight, can't see any damage to housing or turbine on inlet side.
 

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Car should apparently be running 1.5 bar. When I got it, it was running 1.2, now I'm lucky to get 0.9.

Was running an AVCR but have since put a dawes device in to rule things out. Atm the bleed valve is wound shut, yet it still won't boost up.

Done leak test, atm, can only hear a small hiss from the throttle body but doubt this would account for the massive drop.

Just found out I had a forge actuator, full of water and corroded everywhere but even it it was rusted shut that would help with boost as opposed to being rusted open and leaking. It's been blasted, cleaned and reassembled anyway.

Don't fancy taking the elbow off, feels like all the bolts will snap and when you move the wastegate arms, sounds like it taps shut.

Bit lost on what else to check?

Edit to add, doesn't seem any massive play to turbo shaft, feels pretty tight, can't see any damage to housing or turbine on inlet side.
ru saying the actuator has been removed and refitted? if so was it pretensioned half a hole, and what colour spring was in it?

have you tried pressurising it to make sure it travels smoothly

Stu
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ru saying the actuator has been removed and refitted? if so was it pretensioned half a hole, and what colour spring was in it?

have you tried pressurising it to make sure it travels smoothly

Stu
Hi Stu, ur psots seem familiar on all these types of threads :D

Couldn't say on the pretension but will be when it goes back on. It was missing two of the main cap bolts plus where it bolts to the mount, someone had cut something down to fit. Just waiting for a lift back to mine to pick up a load of new bolts which will hopefully fit. Doesn't seem to leak though and it travels nicely.

I think it may be blue, but its so rusted it hard to say. I assume if i jammed it shut the car should overboost. May see if I can stick it on the rolling road and watch it, although its not properly up and running yet so may have to wait a week.
 

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Pull the hose off the actuator and then go out and see if you can develop boost. Be careful though because doing this will keep the wastegate shut completely (assuming the actuator is working OK) and so you can hit seriously high boost levels.

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Pull the hose off the actuator and then go out and see if you can develop boost. Be careful though because doing this will keep the wastegate shut completely (assuming the actuator is working OK) and so you can hit seriously high boost levels.

Andy
This is what I assumed we had done when we wound the bleed valve fully shut, in essence stopping the actuator from opening, although like this it was only peaking at around 0.9bar.
 

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This is what I assumed we had done when we wound the bleed valve fully shut, in essence stopping the actuator from opening, although like this it was only peaking at around 0.9bar.
You need to have the bleed valve fully open to make it over boost, not shut as it will just run the actuator pressure.

Lee
 

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pull the pipe off the acuator and accelerate but watch the boost guage, if you get more than 0.9 boost, say the 1.5 you are hoping for stop acceleration, as you potentially could hit well over 2 bar, and cause damage

blue is a 14-16 psi spring, so you should really expect to see 1 bar boost minimum, assuming it is pretensioned and the turbo is good

Stu
 

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depends how u have the bleed valve plumbed in 2 or 3 way 2 way you shut it two lower boost 3 way you open it to lower boost
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
You need to have the bleed valve fully open to make it over boost, not shut as it will just run the actuator pressure.

Lee
depends how u have the bleed valve plumbed in 2 or 3 way 2 way you shut it two lower boost 3 way you open it to lower boost
Well it was a dawes devices plumbed inline between the takeoff nipple from under the inlet side then to the pipe that goes to the actuator. I assumed that with no air getting to the actuator it wouldn't activate it, or does it work off a vacumm as well? Tbh never really thought about it that much as never had issues before.

Edit to add, just got the actuator on, took the rad off, should have earlier. All cleaned up and pretensioned. Got sod all done so far as crankshaft oilseal is leaking again, but thats another thread all on its own heh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well it's all back together, linked back upto the AVC-R for the time being, rather than the bleed valve.

Actuator is unconnected atm, will test on the way home and see what happens.

Thanks for the help so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, made no difference with the pipe off the actuator, still running 0.9. Another mechanic reckoned the turbo, although tbh, there was no play in the shaft and seemed to spin fine. Going to try another pressure test again and also block up the BOV.

I assume the leak at the throttle body wouldn't have this much effect?
 

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You've either got a huge boost leak or the wastegate isn't shutting properly. I reckon the latter due to what you've tried so far that's had no effect.

You've not mentioned about pre-tensioning the actuator. Can you push/pull the actuator rod by hand? If so, does it take much force?
Have you tried using a foot pump on the actuator to make sure it functions as it should?

I think it's elbow off time!

Paul
 

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If its the std 5 turbo check for cracks around the wastegate holes. As above elbow off job which isnt too hard to remove with a decent tool kit.. Then just inspect the assy. I had a few larges cracks on my old one and the boost was very bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You've either got a huge boost leak or the wastegate isn't shutting properly. I reckon the latter due to what you've tried so far that's had no effect.

You've not mentioned about pre-tensioning the actuator. Can you push/pull the actuator rod by hand? If so, does it take much force?
Have you tried using a foot pump on the actuator to make sure it functions as it should?

I think it's elbow off time!

Paul
I thought I had mentioned the pre tensioning :eek:

Not a foot pump but ran the compressor through it, seems smooth. Like I said, may try and stick it on the rollers if I can and watch the actuator.

If its the std 5 turbo check for cracks around the wastegate holes. As above elbow off job which isnt too hard to remove with a decent tool kit.. Then just inspect the assy. I had a few larges cracks on my old one and the boost was very bad.
I had a feeling that was coming. Did try but bolts are stuck solid and had no gas at the time for the torch. I assume you mean cracks coming away from the wastegate hole itself?
 

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ive had the wastegates break up before in the turbo housing, gives low boost that takes ages to build, your gonna have to pull the elbow off to check im afraid mate, my moneys on that
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·

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I just bought a 2nd hand good nick 10.5 hotside and split the turbo and fitted it. And scrapped the cracked one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Right, well had to strip just about everything off the front of the car as couldnt get at rear turbo bolt. After snapping one of the turbo studs as well, from what I could see, hotside looks fine. Which doesn't help finding the boost problem!

Going to try another actuator anyway to rule out that incase the forge is playing up. Now just gotta sort some studs and port everything whilst it's off.

Darren, in the link to your damaged hotside, where the wastegate is it looks like it has worn into the housing a bit. Mine is similar, would this cause any sealing issues?
 
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