Lancer Register Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
G

·
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
spoke to co-ord,if we order 5 they are £660 |PLS| vat
direct fit on 5 and 6
only mods to wiring are on certain rs2 rsx models with transponder in key
if you are interested,fax your intentions to 01522 704841
simply plugging it in wont do anything but it has
altered ignition,fuel and boost maps
allows 1.3 bar 1.5 peak with fuel cut setting raised above this point
cooling fans cut in at lower temp
yum yum !
p.s.list price is £825 |PLS| vat !
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
mouton

Well Done.

Have to say I had one fitted last week at Coordsport and it is worth buying. The performance increase IS noticeable, especially the torque. Unfortunately, I paid more than £775, consequently I'm a little peeved!
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah well done!

One question though.
simply plugging it in wont do anything
What do you mean?
Are you saying that you need other mods to gain advantage of the ECU?
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The Raliart High Performance Parts catalogue States, install with:

1. Ralliart Intercooler Piping Kit (I have this fitted although other companies wares are available (HKS for one)).
2. Motor Sports Muffler (HKS Super Drager fitted on mine).
3. Ralliart Air Filter (HKS Racing Suction Kit fitted on mine).

Dudley recommend:

1. ARP Bottom End Bolts fitted (car needs to be left for over 8 hours without oil for the sump to rebond to block).
2. Boost upgrade (not sure what Ralliart Dudley actaully do for this!).

Have a look at the bootom of this page - detail on prices. http://www.jerryflint.co.uk/EVO 6 Diary.htm

Hope this is of some help.
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
only repeating word for word
my understanding is that you have more parameters to play with
you CAN run more boost without cut out and the mapping is such that its more bias to performance rather than all round driveability
is your improvement off boost,top end or what ?
you got a discount,fair price really
price quoted is for 5 remember !
glad you are happy
it might pay to have the thermostat and rad cap to complement the fan timings if you already havent got these

my son races a honda cr125 and we use mappable ignition
truth is,once you have it set up ,you dont alter it !
we run works honda mapping and have tried to better it but cannot !
hence my chosen path of ecu
ok if i want to go to extremes i will have to junk it but ive gone to far with tuning before,car becomes undriveable on a daily basis and im determined not to do that this time
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Mouton

The car feels faster/better all round. The increased torque is noticeable, it picks much better at lower revs. In fact it is similar (better) than RS based Sprint , I drove a couple a years ago, obviously with the longer gearing of the GSR. Yes, until you posted the the price difference, I was very pleased, well still am really. The work done at Dudley was also very good and completed professionally, consequently I would recommend their workshops, if the prospective buyers need the bolts/ecu/boost upgrade completing.

I am not sure of the absolute ENGINE spec of the EVO VI eXtreme, but I can only imagine the mod state of mine isn't too far removed. http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/happy1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >

As mentioned earlier I did consider the MOTEC ecu, but your statements on tuning sums it up for me too, as I want to drive the car on the road/traffic with ease too.

My only shock is the fact that I may not get insurance cover with my insurers on renewal! [img]http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/sad1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Anyone know the technical reasons as to why the replacement rad cap and thermostat will help. If the stock rad cap doesn't leak (has anyone experienced this) then why replace it? As for the thermostat once the car is at operating temp, won't it be open regardless?

Also, what are your views on replacing the fuel pump. If you have the new ECU with Ralliart's pre-requisites, then you'll be pushing 350bhp. Ralliart say you don't need a high flow fuel pump, but others do.

My PE pump is still waiting to be fitted. The last time I had an empty tank at the week end it was snowing and there was no way I was going to spend 3 hours in the cold - its times like these I wish I wasn't so southern http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/happy1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >

As for the ECU price, seems excellent value, I've just paid Ralliart full price, still they did do an excellent job and if I'd have sourced it, it would still be unfitted [img]http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/wink1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >

Cheers

Naunt
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Does anyone Know what Ralliart do to uprate the Boost ie do they fit a boost controller or adjust wastegate?I want one but do I need to take it to Ralliart?
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I contacted IRS in Japan and they quoted list for 1 ECU (95,000 Yen) and 10 pcs can discount 15% from 95,000 yen which makes 80750 Yen. At current exchange rate of @ 170 Y that's about £475. Obviously this excludes shipping and whatever taxes (VAT |PLS| ?) but this is a nice price. I don't have the necessary funding to sort out a purchase for 10 but if anyone wants to pick this up they can be contacted on [email protected]

Kevin.
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I think that ralliart turn oficially the boost at higher levels with the high output boost valve controller,£75.
It should be a differend boost solenoid or something like that.
Anyway,if you have the air filter and exhaust your boost level should be already higher and if you remove the grommet and fit a smaller wastegate restrictor it should be ok,at least for peak boost.
Anyway you should have a boost gauge to monitor this.
Off course I think that a good electronic unit as apexi or blitz is even better to set the boost up and down when you want,but then it will be 350£ extra.

I think that the ralliart ecu is the best choice for someone that don't want to go over the 350bhp that you can get with the exhaust/filter/ecu/boost pressure.
Of course the stuff like alloy hoses,bigger intercooler,fuel pump are just ok,the point is that if you want to go for higher power than this you'll have to fit a bigger turbo,different cams and you'll need special pistons,head gaskets,injectors,conrods and the price of all that stuff will have nothing to do with the price of the ecuhttp://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/biggrin1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >!!!
If you want to do a 450bhp upgrade,your problem won't be to save £800 that is the difference between the ralliart and motec ecu.

About the fuel pump,I think that the standard one should be ok with 350bhp.
But I've heard that the standard pumps will lose power when getting old after a few thousent miles.I prefered to fit the pe fuel pump,as it was less expensive than standard one
and it should be better.

About the arp bolts they are probably the best,jun use them for their con rod kit,but I've been told by a japanese tuner that you don't need to change them at 350bhp.
Off course if you got them changed it can be only better,but you have to get all the engine open,and at that point why do not change the con rods?

I've never heard about engine problems caused by the top end bolts.in gr.n they don't usally change them.But for example they always use upgraded head gasket.
When you hear about a damaged evo engine usually it's for the head gasket failure.
The rally team were we go in france have made a special evo vi for ice races,and they used the ralliart sports ecu with higher boost,and,probably because the high rpm keeped for long time in the same gear on the ice,the engine broke.

I saw the internals and the bolts were at their place but the conrods an the pistons was in pieces[img]http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/embarassed1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >!!!

If you fit the ralliart ecu without exhaust and air filter and without turning up the boost it will loose in performance!
Claudius had it fitted with the standard parts and he lost in performance.
Then he had moore boost and it was working slightly better than standard,but nothing to do with the increase that you get with the ralliart ecu fitted with the exhaust and filter.
Now he send the ecu back as he want to go for a motec m48 with bigger hks turbo and upgraded internals.But would he keep the standard exhaust[img]http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/biggrin1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >[img]http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/biggrin1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >[img]http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/biggrin1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >?!?
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Naunt
The Ralliart Radiator cap has a higher pressure relief valve (127kPa) than the standard item. Higher pressure means that the coolant will not boil at a higher temperature.
The replacement thermostat I assume operates (opens) at a lower temperature than the standard item.
Many older cars used to have an option of a summer or winter thermostat. In winter the thermostat would open at a higher temperature and in the summer at a lower temperature. This was to keep the engine at an ideal temperature depending on conditions.
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
HH6

I understand the theory, but I’m guessing here that the coolant will not boil without the rad cap release opening with loads of steam escaping. (When a liquid boils in a contained environment the pressure increases loads).

Therefore given I’ve never had the rad cap release pressure (caused by boiling coolant) the only thing that the Ralliart cap will do is raise the release pressure beyond the point its set to now (and at which I never reach anyway)

With the thermostat, I thought the difference in opening temp was about 5 degrees. When I worked on older cars, I’ve checked the thermostat is opening by idling the engine with the rad cap off and watching the coolant. (not to be done on a warm engine) When the thermostat opens, you can see the coolant start to circulate (this includes the circulation to the heater matrix)

We know that the thermostat starts to open after a few minutes of idling, so it must be fully open at normal operating temperature? (this assumption is probably where it all goes wrong) In which case does it make any difference once the car is fully warmed up?

As for the Ralliart upgraded boost valve, I was told they only replace this if there are emission issues (on mine they removed the boost solenoid grommet and I assume they adjusted the waste gate jet)

Cheers

Naunt
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
LAST ORDERS !!
we have 3 confirmed......anyone else
speak now or moan about how much you had to pay later
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top