You can do the belt change without the tensioner tool as the important check to make is that the projection of the tensioner mechanism is 3,8 - 4,5 mm (I expect you already have this info). When I did mine (EVO 1) I started with the pin in the tensioner and after removing it (the pin that is) slightly slackened/moved the pulley gradually until I had about 4mm projection (you can get verniers in to check this without any problems). The only problem with not having the tool is if you go outside the mechanism spec as you need to remove the tensioner, stick it in a vice and re pin it! Never considered the circlip plier route but may be a good way of doing it. Remember to let the belt settle for about 15 minutes and then re check the tensioner protrusion.
Must admit that I don't like the hydraulic tensioner set up - I prefer the locked tensioner pulley arrangements more.
Do you have a work instruction for doing the belt change - as I might be able to help you there.
Thanks for the help Mark,
I've got a owners workshop manual and loads of stuff that I've downloaded from www.clubdsm.com in the states. I think that as long as that projection is within spec and that I follow the procedure in the correct order, that the other tolerances should be wide enough not to casue many headaches. Just goes to show that I should have replaced the cambelt before it went ping!
the manual that I have got is a Mitsubishi Motors Owners Manual printed by a company called Russell I think, I haven't got it with me at the mo but it has a Mitsubishi part number. It only covers Galants between 1988 and 1993 but it is very comprehensive right down to valve spring specs etc... I cant tell you where you can get one as I dont know, I got it with my first Galant, and I think that the original owner got it from Mitsubishi.
Sorted it now. I useed a method secribed on clubdsm.com Using the M8 bolt tool to compress the tensioner piston until it protruded 4mm using a feeler gauge. I then tightened the pulley using a spanner [wrapped in tape to protect the pulley] to lever the pulley and then tightend it. I took about 4 attempts to get the leverage on the pulley just right but no need for the tool. Should have the engine finished tonight. fingers crossed.