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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Chunky its me Biggy-small,
The RS ive got is in the same way how an RS evo it to an evo to your GSR. It is
very basic no electric windows, central locking, or ABS. It does however have the
ability to say with an impreza from 60 to 120mph in 5th gear. It does have crap seats
that make you sweat and in the summer the heat coming from the transmission tunnel
via the exhaust is going to be a killer. So far ive not meet a car that meet it
performance not even the elise can get rid of me even on the twisty bits in the end he
gave up. Not that i race but its alaways nice to show who boss.
As far as i known its not been played with ive put on a mono steering wheel and
gearshift. the ICE it standard with my CD player. I worry if i put anything expenisve
in the car will then develop a major fault and i won'y be able to afford to get it
repaired. The next thing i'm going to get doen it the traking, the car came with new
tyres which are yokohama which are seem to be lasting, but they don't half make a
noise when you push them a bit. I would really like to try it out against an evo as i
known it not that powerful but for £5500 i'm not moaning.
The thing to make it look the dogs ******** would be a big set of wheels however
that would require a big bank account, which i dont have.
Do you fond that it pulls on the sterring quiet a bit and that it won't idle smoothly. My
air-con dosn't seem to want to work anymore, but its not like it get hot here in
yorkshire,
Cheers Al
PS does the car have an AYC as it seems to go into a corner and then the backend
will move round with you, not slide but follow it you known what i mean.
Chunky your e-mail does not work.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Biggy/Al

My email isn't working? Try [email protected], [email protected], [email protected] or even [email protected]. The Bigfoot addy is my main one and the only one guaranteed to be working 6 months from now, but all the others should get to me
In any case you can get my address from my site.

I've always found my car to track straight and true, maybe your alignment needs looking at? There are settings here on the LTR site.

I've heard that dodgy idling is most likely to be a silly wee idle controller thingy needing replaced. Bad news: they cost a fortune
Take it to a reputable import garage for a better idea, it might be something simple.

If your aircon doesn't work then you've probably done the same as me and left it switched off for too long. The compressor, and more specifically the magentic clutch, is self-lubricating and really needs engaged regularly otherwise it 'dries out' and goes tits up. Mits recommend using it at least once a week, but I left it off so I could enjoy the extra hp
wish I hadn't now. You should be able to hear a rattly sound coming from the front nearside underneath the engine that sounds like a load of paper clips in a coke can if this is the case. If nothing sounds amiss then it might be that all you need is the refrigerant recharged, if your idling goes up when you switch the compessor on, then thats prolly it. Look in Yellow Pages for someone local that might be able to help, IIRC you're talking ~£100.

Your car doesn't have AYC, only the Evo IV and later have it. I have found though that my car is also particularly 'reary', but you won't find me complaining
What size tyres do you run?

What colour is your car? If it's white like I think all RSs are, then do yourself a favour and get a set of white 16 Compomotive MOs (I think thats what they are) - They look the wasp's nipples on a Lancer. They're not that expensive and partnered with Toyo T1-S tyres (all in under £700) you'll be King of the Dales!

If you're looking for a reputable place nearby to get your car fettled, we have a Yorkshire lad here (whose turned into a bit of a lurker recently, HELLOOOO!) who might be able to help.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
'ere you don't mean me do you ?
Can't help with the 'getting stuff fixed' question as so far all mine has had is servicing.

But my evo I also has a distinct 'rearness' to it when pressing on hard. it mainly appears to be momentum oversteer as opposed to the real thing. However if it is damp and greasy it'll shoot out of a roundabout with a whiff of opposite lock and the rear tyres spinning. Great !

Bye the way, am I the only freak that actually went down a tyre size when I got a new set. It came with 225/50's But the factory fit 195/55. since I fitted them I found the car handles much nicer (I dont mean grip I mean handling). Any one else still use skinny tyres like me ?

I would have come to the croft day but my wife is due to give birth that day (!) is suppose I could 'induce' her with a quick spin http://www.ltregister.force9.co.uk/graphics/Happy.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| middle >
TonyC
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes, I've tried 175s (!) on my car (wheee!) and as I say on my site, I don't think anything 205|PLS| is desirable on an early Lancer, no matter how much grip some say it should give you.

I've even heard that 225s etc. will give less grip. As the contact patch gets bigger, the same weight will be spread over that larger area and produce less friction.

As for damp roundabouts, I'm there dude


Good luck to you and the missus! (and the wee fella when he comes along!)
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just a quickie re the idle thing. HKS do an idle stabiliser or something like that which apparently sorts out the problems normally made worse when a dump valve of a non-recirculating nature is fitted. Don;t know if this would be a cheaper route than an OEM idle stabiliser though.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just thought, the pulling on the steering. Is it pulling ot tramlining. Eg do the front wheels feel to be following all the depressions and ruts in the road. If thats the case it could be tyres. When I had the 225's on (Jap toyos - tampons or something they were called) it suffered the most appaling tramlining in the dry. (Mind you they were almost totaly kojak'ed) Once I swapped to the smaller tyres that was the single biggest improvement.
TonyC
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah the car does seem to want to follow the depressions in the road, but i'm only running 195s and they still have miles left in them. The suspension is so hard anything other than babys bottom has you on the edge of your seat keeping it a straight line. It picks out any imperfectios, even ones you carnt see, but it will run smooth on a good tarmac, something which is hard to find now. I don't mind it as i've done 3 to 6 hour journies, with not even a back ache, however i don't know it my passengers would enjoy it. The aligments out with the sterring wheel EG when the steeing wheels central the cars going to the right, but the cars has a after market sterring wheel and when the adapter was put it could have been put on wrong. Anyway its going to have its alignment in as soon as a can fit it in.
The biggest problem is that i can not compare it to another car off the same make, you don't know if the cars suppose to makes that noise or its just normal. If a garage has never seen one before neither will they know whats right or wrong. Im learning new things about the car each time i drive it.
Cheers Al
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It does sound like wheel Alignment...
As soon as I get chance for a few days off work I'm poping down to a place nearby me to find out what they will charge to set my cars suspension up from base. (They setup rally cars and its a LOT more accurate than the local kwikfit) Where are you in Yorkshire, if its nearby and good you might want to ty them.
I had the same problem as you (wheel in wrong place on straight ahead) after I got my alignment setup. I made them check it a few times and it is still not good. The problem is they check it by clamping the lights/mirrors on the rear wheels. but if the rears are toeing out wrong also then it all goes pie-eyed. Mine was wrong at first as they had not allowed for some varriation on the back. Its ok now, but wet/greasy raods still generate more understeer than I like. I think it is becuase the fronts aren't tracking true yet (hence my boot of power to get the nose balanced).
I'd at least get the basic tracking done and see from there.
TonyC
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It does sound like wheel Alignment...
As soon as I get chance for a few days off work I'm poping down to a place nearby me to find out what they will charge to set my cars suspension up from base. (They setup rally cars and its a LOT more accurate than the local kwikfit) Where are you in Yorkshire, if its nearby and good you might want to ty them.
I had the same problem as you (wheel in wrong place on straight ahead) after I got my alignment setup. I made them check it a few times and it is still not good. The problem is they check it by clamping the lights/mirrors on the rear wheels. but if the rears are toeing out wrong also then it all goes pie-eyed. Mine was wrong at first as they had not allowed for some varriation on the back. Its ok now, but wet/greasy raods still generate more understeer than I like. I think it is becuase the fronts aren't tracking true yet (hence my boot of power to get the nose balanced).
I'd at least get the basic tracking done and see from there.
TonyC
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I got the tracking done yesterday but i had to use evo 1 settings. The differnce it made was unbelievable and could be felt straight away. The ride is much better and the pulling on the steering has reduced alot. But the going around corners doesn't seemed to have changed, but i haven't really played with it yet.
I live in Sheffield and i go the car serviced at RE performance centre at Bury in Manchester, but its a long way to go. I got my locl mitsubishi garage to do it. Who do you recommend?
Al
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Its a place local to me in Barnoldswick (!) near Skipton. Still a fair old trip just for suspension setups.
Luckily there is a place in Skipton that can service the Evo on a normal basis.
TonyC
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm interested to know more about this 'reariness', because it doesn't sound too much like my car. I've had my 1800 GSR for a couple of months only, and admittedly I don't yet know the car inside and out. However, it seems to me that the car naturally wants to understeer when applying power in corners. Basically, there seems to be a lot of grip available, and the car is fairly neutral when carrying speed through corners. If I give it an enthusiaistic dab at the throttle, it is definitely the front that lets go. To get the back end to move I really have to provoke it with very aggressive lift off.
I'm running 195's all round. The suspension is standard....seems like it could do with being lowered. I'd really like to know how to make the car 'reary' as you describe. Maybe its in the car - set up, tyres? Not sure...maybe in my driving style?
Let me know what you think.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The other thing is that TonyC runs a evo 1 which has 50bhp, if not more to play if than the 1800, as i've never had my rears spinning, only a slight spin when turning from standstill on loose ground. I never really give than must stick as i once had a nasty accident with a rover 216GTi and my insurance still hurting. Also depends on what tyres are on as i think this must make a difference, ive got sticky yokos
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Making the car drive from the rear....hmmm


I'm no expert but there are a few things you can try. Check the alignment, although this will have more of an impact on your inital turn-in as opposed to the balance in the corner, it might help. A few more psi in the rears and a couple less at the front couldn't hurt either.

My car has strut braces front and rear, maybe these have something to do with it?
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I do have extra grunt, and I run 31psi at front and 30 at rear (engine in front so its nose heavy, yeah ?). But I've got to be keen with the throttle still. On a trailing or even a steady throttle the front will wash out (annoying). It took me a few months to be brave enough with the throttle to try and balance it out. Usually I lift to tuck the nose in. I still have to sometimes especially when damp. My suspension is standard (at least judging by the enormouse gap between tye and wheelarch. It also starts off quite firm, but if you push hard (eg slow, dry roundabout) the front rolls and digs in -nasty understeer then. So only certain types of corner will the car steer from the rear. usually fast ones. slow corners I have to adopt the slow in fast out technique. The only exception are some damp roundabouts etc. Thats when you can get the rears going..
Coming home today I dived into a dry left right off camber sequence (the joys of licing in the country) at about 75mph. held it steady to the for the rght then welly'd coming out the right hand and I had the fronts scrabling for grip in fourth ! wowee !
Having said that I am a bit crackers and I've been racing cars for about 3 years.
Please only drive as you feel comftable as I'd hate someone to crash cos I said the car reacted like x or y.
Best bet (something I'm doing) is investing on a drving course. Much more value for money that engine or suspension mods. There are quite a few professionals out there doing one-one coaching at Mira etc.
Keep it on the black stuff
TonyC
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the helpful advise.
At the end of the day, I'm totally impressed with the handling of the car. I'm not upset that the car isn't tail happy. I was just interested to learn why I was getting different results from you guys. Think I'll mess with the tyre pressures, as suggested, and see how it goes. I'm sure that a lowered set of springs would also have a big influence. Should give more negative camber at the front and a bit more 'bite'.
I'm not in any rush to change anything major. I'm still discovering the car and its limits. Having lots of fun in the process.

Cheers
Danny
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ive driven a Lotus Elise around silverstone and the grip of that was amazing, but the high speed grunt was crap. I love my car and as it may be the only one of its type in the country, so i take great care. I do have fun going around roundabouts at speed but only the ones i know well and when they are empty. The one one thing the driving instructor said to me was think slow but react fast. Dont rush your thoughts. A bloke doing the same course as me had a 911 but could'nt drive to save his life, he kept going off the track.
Im coing through Skipton on Saturday, but at 5.00am. may see you TonyC
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It took me a little while to figure it out, but my Evo I tends to oversteer with the driving style I use, which is just trail braking. You brake while turning into the corner. This shifts the weight of the car on towards the front,lightening up the rear. If you gas it at the apex, or even a bit before the back will come out, but it is easily controlable and not snap oversteer or anything. The more you press the more it comes out. My car has a little more power than stock but I think it should still work with a stock Evo or GSR.

On wet roads all you have to do is press while going round the corner


I also run 35 psi in the front and 31 in the rear. Lower pressure in the rear will encourage oversteer, not higher pressure.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
35 at the front, hmmm.. mine do look a bit squashed still.
I also use to find on my front enigned -rear drive car that higher presure would work well up to a point then it would begin to cause the tyre to loose grip. So I'll have to see how higher fronts work out. Too much and it'll be understeer city.
 
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