Lancer Register Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just looking to know what the finish would be like if I respray the underbody of my Evo 7 with aerosol cans or should I get it done with a proper paint gun with my air compressor it is there really much of a difference?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm currently stripping the whole underneath down to bare metal and phosphating it with phos kleen from rustbuster. I plan on just using grey rust primer then a black paint top coat. Any suggestions?
 

·
Twincharger Guru
Joined
·
4,571 Posts
An aerosol won't give you a very thick coat, and being an acrylic or cellulose paint it won't offer much protection either. Use the gun with a 2-pack paint, 1 mist coat then 2 shine coats to seal and protect the metal properly
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
An aerosol won't give you a very thick coat, and being an acrylic or cellulose paint it won't offer much protection either. Use the gun with a 2-pack paint, 1 mist coat then 2 shine coats to seal and protect the metal properly
Only problem is I've no car lift and currently working of axle stands.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,596 Posts
Only problem is I've no car lift and currently working of axle stands.
I did the whole bare metal then phos clean after originally desalting using the rustbuster range I then used 3 rollered on coats of rust buster 1-2-1. I simply used a small gloss roller and then a brush to cut in. The finish was good and the coating applied evenly.
Automotive tire Tire Hood Automotive lighting Tread


I then carried out the seam sealer install and then to dull down the shiny finish of the 1-2-1 I applied a spray can coating of paintable stone chip. This Dulled the finish of the underneath I was after a solid protected car not a showpiece it then looked like

Automotive lighting Hood Vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design


Once everything was bolted on I was left with the following note pictures are taken after then later down the line. It’s been done 3-4 years now and it’s still very good

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive lighting
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did the whole bare metal then phos clean after originally desalting using the rustbuster range I then used 3 rollered on coats of rust buster 1-2-1. I simply used a small gloss roller and then a brush to cut in. The finish was good and the coating applied evenly. View attachment 373404

I then carried out the seam sealer install and then to dull down the shiny finish of the 1-2-1 I applied a spray can coating of paintable stone chip. This Dulled the finish of the underneath I was after a solid protected car not a showpiece it then looked like

View attachment 373405

Once everything was bolted on I was left with the following note pictures are taken after then later down the line. It’s been done 3-4 years now and it’s still very good

View attachment 373406
Looks an awesome job man. That's the way I want mine looking when I'm done. You said you cleaned everything down first was that just the chlor-x? Should I have used this first before I started cleaning it down to bare metal?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,596 Posts
Looks an awesome job man. That's the way I want mine looking when I'm done. You said you cleaned everything down first was that just the chlor-x? Should I have used this first before I started cleaning it down to bare metal?
yes ideally should Chlor x first as otherwise you push salt into the seams. I thought it was a fad until I used it I did it in a warm heated garage with a tiled floor. The floor once it had dried was covered in a layer of salt which was left after the water had evaporated/dried out. I was shocked.

What you have done is better than nothing though. I just used the rustbuster kit. The only product I didn’t use was the rust converter as I had bare metalled everything and my chassis was already good
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,895 Posts
Looks an awesome job man. That's the way I want mine looking when I'm done. You said you cleaned everything down first was that just the chlor-x? Should I have used this first before I started cleaning it down to bare metal?
I said this to you ages ago mate, as Lee said it’s good stuff. There is loads of info on the rust website you should really read it all it’s very helpful
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yes ideally should Chlor x first as otherwise you push salt into the seams. I thought it was a fad until I used it I did it in a warm heated garage with a tiled floor. The floor once it had dried was covered in a layer of salt which was left after the water had evaporated/dried out. I was shocked.

What you have done is better than nothing though. I just used the rustbuster kit. The only product I didn’t use was the rust converter as I had bare metalled everything and my chassis was already good
My underbody was done in wax oil so I've scraped it all off with wd40. Should I do any bits left with the chlor-x then strip and phosphate would you recommend?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I said this to you ages ago mate, as Lee said it’s good stuff. There is loads of info on the rust website you should really read it all it’s very helpful
Didn't realize you meant do it with the chlor-x before you start. Just thought you meant clean wax oil all off and strip down.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top