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Discussion Starter #1
OK Guys

I am looking to upgrade the beast.

Things on my list are :-

HKS 272I/264E cams and amp; pulleys
HKS valve spings
HKS Oil cooler Kit
Head stud kit
Conrod bolts
Uprated fuel pump
HKS EVC/AVC
Fuel pressure regulator
HKS Head gasket

Question,
Are conrod bolts accessible from underneath car, no engine removal?
Which size head gasket is best?
Is headgasket necessary?
Best Fuel Pump upgrade
I have stock ECU, will these mods need remap ? i am prepared for this, thinking pe remap??
I take it that stock internals (apart from conrod bolts) can cope with this and amp; that pistons/rods should really only be changed if im looking to upgrade turbo etc etc. does the same apply to fuel rail or will i get improvement from changing rail/injectors on this set up.

From reading previous threads it seems that if the cams are set up correctly and amp; ecu/Evc correct i should not suffer too much from the cams.

Help me spend
 
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Discussion Starter #2
Con-Rod bolts can be changed by simply removing the Sump. Of course there is more to it but it is about a three-Four hour job. Simply re-seal it afterwards and allow it to set over night.

I have the Ralliart ECU and feel the mapping could be bettter above stock boost levels. The PE re-map is cheaper and they can map it to your specification. I suppose it all depends if you wanna run more than around 1.5 Bar. Go on you know ya want to! You mentioned a fuel preassure regulator. I suppose if you felt like being really crude you could use this in conjuction with a fuel cut defencer. Hmmmm not my choice though.

Never tried cams in an evo so I dunno. In my experience with other cars cams can be used without ruining too much driveability and low end torque/throttle response. It all depends if they are set up properley and as long as you get all the clearances and timing right it can be very beneficial. I have seem two cars exactly the same with the same cams in them and they were put in by two different people. One lost power and one gained. All depends on whether or not whoever is fitting them knows what they are doing I suppose. It's also immportant to have the car mapped after the cams have been fitted otherwise you will see little benefit because the ignition timing will be all wrong. I'm sure PE could sort that out, it's just a case of trying different degrees of retard and advance on the rollers and seeing which gives the best results.

With regards to the Head gasket and oil cooler it is better safe than sorry. I know Mocal do some very good oil cooler kits that use a thermostatic adaptor flange between the filter housing and the filter. On my prvious car I never had oil temps above about 80 degrees but without the cooler they were reaching in excess of 100 degrees.

Although I'm not the most knowledgable person on evo's as I'm fairly new to the car I thought I would offer my thoughts anyway. I'm sure someone like blade will be able to help you a lot more than I.


Cheers

Jon
 
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Discussion Starter #3
if you are staying within sensible boost levels,the 1.2mm hks gasket should suffice.
although i have not had time to drive the car very far,the hks manifold would appear to give a good hike in torque as claimed.
not cheap,but parts that actually work never are !.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Jon for you input
JC I seem to remember someone saying you were the master of setting up cams?
 
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Discussion Starter #7
JapR,

Don't even consider doing rod bolts without the use of a 2 or 4 post lift , and even then much care is needed. The job carries a few potentially catastrophic pitfalls for the inexperienced.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Japracer
I have got exactly what you are asking about |PLS| a few mor eother goodies. I am very pleased with the results and there isn't really any downsides to worry about. RC set my car up and the only niggly thing is the cams. Quite lumpy when on idle so everone knows it's got cams but the main thing that my wife hates (but isn't a problem once you're used to it) is when you're on tiny throttle or none at all and then go to accelerate normally. Sometimes it kangaroos, but all you have to do is dip the clutch as if you've just changed gear. Can be a bit embarressing in traffic I guess! But like I say, it's easy to live with.
After all that, the car is an absolute flying machine as several have seen at Brands a couple of weeks ago. It also pulls much stronger and is more responsive at lower revs than standard.
I'd strongly reccomend the oil cooler as I'd previously cooked my oil on another track day and had noisy tappets afterwards! It is now peaking at 1.6bar and holds over 1.4.

An more info you need, mail me.

Steve
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Steve,

I am thinking on contacting the previous owner on the log book because the symptoms you describe I already have, also I am worried about the ECU because I read somewhere in an earlier thread that coldstart etc are effected by change in certain ECU's, i also can dig that! sometime runs like a pig when cold and amp; especially when its been raining.
Throttle very jerky and amp; kangaroos quite a bit.
hmmmmm, maybe i save some money ? someone already spent it:D
 
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Discussion Starter #10
the only niggly thing is the cams. Quite lumpy when on idle so everone knows it's got cams but the main thing that my wife hates (but isn't a problem once you're used to it) is when you're on tiny throttle or none at all and then go to accelerate normally. Sometimes it kangaroos, but all you have to do is dip the clutch as if you've just changed gear. Can be a bit embarressing in traffic I guess! But like I say, it's easy to live with.

my car idles as normal,and runs smoother than standard.
it has no loss in bottom end or off boost torque,and gives max torque at 3800 rpm
i would respectfully suggest you have a fault with something.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
I agree with custard... if you get the cam timing wrong, then you get lumpy cams AND lose power.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Just Custard quoted I am not,but RC Developments are !

RC set my car up! Clive asked me if I wanted it set up for torque or horsepower and warned me the idle would be a bit lumpy. I had it set for torque. I'm not saying it is set up correctly, but I'd like to see your cars to compare. Hopefully I will soon at a track day!

So if it was set up for power, would it not be so lumpy?

Steve
 
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Discussion Starter #13
maladjusted throttle cable mounting resulted in kangarooville.
tightened up and amp; no more kangaroo

Yipeeeeee
 
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