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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just ordered my Ralliart ECU and I'm interested to see what sort of power gains people have achieved running about 1.3 Bar of boost. I already have;

-Blitz front pipe
-Mongoose De-Cat
-Blitz Cat Back
-Blitz induction Kit

I wold also be interested to know what people recommend in terms of controlling/setting the boost. I have a Blitz SBC-ID but am reluctant to use it becasue it was fairly in-accurate on my previous car. If I do use it do I just T into the actuator line between the housing and the actuator or do I need to phase out the existing valves that Mitsubishi use which are T'd into the actuator line?


Cheers.

Jon
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Yo purple,

C u work 4 vanaaken u diesel boy u :)

C u r fitting the mystery Blitz front pipe , I can't find any pics or reference 2 this item , tell me where 2 find it please .
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Whatch it buddy I ain't no deisel boy!

We started out on petrol and are all still petrol heads down here. Deisels are just easy to tune so we put our foot into the market.

If you want to see that we do good tuning work aswell check out my Ford Puma TURBO in Fast Ford or CCC Mag this month. We are also a Blitz dealer and do almost any type of performance upgrades you can think of. We would like to get into the Jap Cars a bit more and owning an Evo myself I love to see them down here. They are so easy to work on and you don't tend to get troubles like you do when people want 1000Bhp from thier RS Turbo.

I have already fitted the front pipe. Just bolts straight on, took about ten minutes for me to fit. My Ralliart ECU should turn up tomorrow but they were a bit useless when I asked them what the most accurate way to set the boost was. Bit of a we don't want to tell you situation.

You should come to Santa Pod this weekend. I'll be there with some mates. Anybody else going?
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't have any pics of the Front Pipe but I beleive [email protected] has them in stock now. I might be able to get you a pic tomorrow. Mail me in the morning and I'll see what I can do. If you want one I can arrange a small discount if you order it from me. No probs with the pipe at all.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Purple,

Thanks 4 the offer on tuning but I am in that game 2 :)

My curiosity with the Blitz front pipe is that I have never seen a reference 2 it even on Racelogic's site , however the fact u installed it in ten minutes tells me it is just a straight replacement 4 the factory pipe , still like 2 c a pic tho.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi.

I have the same mods as you and I will be installing the ecu over the weekend. I found Ralliart to be less than helpfull when it came to any information regarding the fitment and adjusting the boost. My original plan was to use a different restrictor like they do, but I was told that they would only sell them if I lived outside the U.K :( Oh yes, I was told that I needed to fit the con rod bolts too ;)

I am going to use a dawes to raise the boost to 1.3 bar and fit an in-line bleed if the boost delivery is too harsh. If I am not happy with the result I will use an EBC. The Dawes is only £40 so it aint the end of the world if it doesn't perform.

Watch this space.

Dean

BTW. Ralliart said they also adjust the air corrector, any one know what that is/ does?
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
virtually same mods as u, 1.4bar boost with the SBC-id no problem.
351bhp engine
239bhp wheels
303lbs torque

lee
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Lee.

Where have you fitted your solenoids and where have you taken off the actuator lines? Any Pics?

ECU Should turn up today. Fingers crossed.

Thats good power I wasn't really expecting that much! What was your standard torque figure?
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
John,
I'm sure Lee won't mind me answering for him ;)
His solenoid is mounted onto the front part of the battery tray. There is a plastic flap that is located onto the battery tray which is held in with 2 plastic clips. If you remove the clips then you can pull the flap off and mount the solenoid on there.

You then have to remove the T-piece that leads off to the existing boost solenoid and attach the hose from the wastegate actuator to the OUT port of the solenoid and the hose from the turbo outlet to the IN port of the solenoid.

Then run the wiring harness from the solenoid through the firewall to attach to the controller unit that should be mounted inside the car (behind the glovebox is as good a place as any). You run the vacumm hose from the controller back through the firewall and Tee it into a pipe leading from the plenum chamber.
It should then just be a case of connecting the display to the controller and away you go. One boost controller fully installed!!!

Standard torque on a E6GSR is 38kg-m which is about 275 ft-lbs

Hope this helps

Andy
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks mate. Very much appreciated.

You say you disconect the orignal solenoid that is t'd in do you leave it disconected then?

Which is better; Boost set as a ratio of original or as a pressure on the unit?
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeh, you leave it disconnected as the SBC-iD now controls the boost and not the ECU.

Setting the boost as a ratio provides a more stable response but the boost level will fluctuate with temperature changes. I understand that Lee has it setup in this way and he has to turn the ratio down when it's cold to make sure that he doesn't overboost.

Setting the boost as a figure means that the contoller starts to 'learn' your driving style and will aim to keep at the set boost level throughout. i.e. if you floor it after setting to 1.2 bar then the first attempt you may get 1.1 bar. Floor it again and it'll go to 1.15. Again and it may go to 1.25. Then finally it'll learn what response it needs so that when you floor it, it gives 1.2 bar spot on. This way you can leave the unit alone and it'll sit happily at 1.2 bar all day long.

Therefore it depends on what you want to do. Personal decision at the end of the day.

Andy
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Andy.

EvoBoy;

I've had a front pipe come in this morning for a customers TME. I will take a pic with my camera and mail it to you in the morning. (I dont have my leads for my camera at work)
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks andy, u make it sound better than i would anyway :)

Purple,

i have mine set at auto (0.8 bar) in channel 1 for everyday (town) driving. the channel 4 is set to manual 68, with give u 1.4 bar on a normal day, but u have to watch it as in the cold it does overboost.

i would advise setting up the warning function to knock the boost back in that situation.

lee
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Purple,
Have you managed to fit your Blitz yet then? I managed to fit mine on Friday afternoon and what a difference it makes. Running it in auto, it takes a few attempts to learn your driving but then it settles down and you can play around with it to your hearts content... I've got mine set at 0.7 in auto for town driving and then set at 1.2 (still got standard ECU) for good old country lane and motorway blasts. The difference in feel is brilliant and the car pulls around to 140mph (on a private test track :D) without any hesitiation and it doesn't fell like it's slowing down when it gets there....
Definitely worth doing. I've fitted mine as described above and fitted the display using a blank DIN plate fitted below the stereo.

Andy
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I managed to get the ECU in on Friday and the SBC-ID in on Saturday. What a nightmare trying to fit that loom through the grommet in the passengers side bulkhead. My hands now look like I tryed to tame a chicken on viagra.

Results are good although I have decided that the SBC ID is not very good when in auto mode. Boost is spikey too progressive, and inaccurate. Obviously I expected to get higher boost at higher load (4th/5th) but it was too inaccurate and I don't want to replace my big ends yet and therefore worried every time my gauge shot above 1.3.

On the way back from my woman's parents house in Warwick I started fiddling and set boost as a ratio. Should of tried this in the first place but it was a rushed weekend. The difference is amazing. I have gain set on 10 and the boost is 55 which gives a good build up and constant holding of 1.3 Bar. I use another channel for Motorway driving but the innacuracy in higher gears is improved by ten fold by setting the boost in Manual mode.

Thanks for all your help guys. Nothing like a bit of experience to clear up an unsure situation. Hmmm just need to get it on the rollers now. I wonder what it will be. I suspect something like 320-330 BHP is realistic.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
nice aint it....

only thing to watch with it in ratio mode is the weather:
lunchtime: 65|EQU|1.4
11pm at night: 65|EQU|1.54 (ouch)

so i have set my channel 3 and amp; 4 for the same boost reading but at different times of day.

lee
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Purple,
I know what you mean about the bulkhead part. I found it a lot easier if you remove the rubber sleeve and then the plastic part is only held in with 2 clips that can be prised open with a screwdriver. It's then a hell of a lot easier to feed everything through.

I haven't tried the controller in manual yet as I'm happy with it in auto. It starts boosting at just over 2,000 revs (nice titanium RSX turbo :)) hits 1.2 bar by just over 3,000 revs and stays there all the way to the rev limiter. Probably try it in manual to see what the differences are though.

Like I said above, it does take a few attempts to learn the way you drive in auto. When I first put my foot down in 5th gear on the motorway (with the boost set to 0.9 in auto) it overboosted to 1.23 but after driving it around all weekend, it now gets to 1.2 and doesn't go above. If I want it to spike and then settle, I can just increase the gain figure (13 at the moment) and it peaks and then controls at 1.2.

Andy
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Original Post:
Purple,
I know what you mean about the bulkhead part. I found it a lot easier if you remove the rubber sleeve and then the plastic part is only held in with 2 clips that can be prised open with a screwdriver. It's then a hell of a lot easier to feed everything through.

Andy
i found it hell of a lot easier to get someone else to do it :)

bloody tight arse northerners......lee :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Lee,

Have you changed your big end bolts?? Re: Getting someone else to do it. The only person that works on my car is me. I don't trust anybody else unless I really know them well and know their standards are as high as mine. I'm not northern either. Where you from? I live near Reading in Berkshire.

351 Bhp. What have you had done mate?

Andy,

Try it in manual mode. Maybe that titaniuim turbo makes all the difference. Mine wouldn't make full boost until about 5000Rpm in Auto mode. Weird Huh?

See y'all l8r
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
i know, dont worry i was taking the #### out of andy, as he is a tight arsed northerner :)
i am in loughton in essex (NE london, M25/M11), are u coming to the bolney meet??

i didnt like the auto mode either, its ok for around town, but when u want to floor it, it might only hit half the desired level (could be embarrasing :))

lee

ps. Racing suction kit, Hiper Muffler, Ralliart de-cat, magnex front pipe, arp bolts, sports ecu, sytec fuel pump, blitz sbc-id, power-id, HKS ssqv
 
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