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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

I know that this topic has been posted up several times before, but here goes anyway. I have ordered the GReddy Profec B boost controller. Now, I am aware that when increasing the boost I need to be careful of a number of things:

1) Fuel Cuts
2) Increase in temperature

Anything else?

Now, my question is: What is the maximum boost that I can run my car (EVO 4) on, WITHOUT getting fuel cuts? . I want to avoid fuel cuts as much as possible because I know that this is an indication that the car is running lean and then detonation reveals its ugly head. I have heard that it is around 1.3 bar? So running max. boost of 1.2bar should be OK? (Assuming the outside air is not too cold).

Also, would I be correct in saying that the 'wisest' way to get around fuel cuts it to replace the factory ECU for an aftermarket one? Such as a Motec or Apexi Power FC?

With an increase in temperature, is the standard intercooler sufficient to keep temperatures down say running at 1.2 bar? I have a standard turbo too?

Lastly, I know of some cars that:

1) Keep the factory ECU, with a boost controller, OR
2) Aftermarket ECU, with boost contoller, OR
3) Aftermarket ECU - and ECU controls boost

Which the is better option? I mean, is an aftermarket ECU sufficient to increase boost? Or should I still get a boost controller too? I may be thinking of running a boost controller |PLS| aftermarket ECU (Motec or Apexi). Not sure? So, is a boost controller necessary with an aftermarket ECU? Thanks in advanced.

Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I've had some of the same questions, particularly with regard to what's a safe boost to run on a largely standard car (i.e., stock ECU, intercooler and engine internals). Unfortunately, I've heard different things. Some tuners have told me that the map limit of the standard ECU is reached at only 1.1 bar, so anything above that is risky. Others have said that they run up to 1.4 bar, with no problems. The general consensus on here seems to be that at or above 1.3, you get the dreaded (and dangerous) fuel cut problem.

The Apex'i Power FC will allow you to remap, so higher boost levels should be no problem. Note that the standard Power FC does NOT have boost controller, so you'll need an external boost controller. BUT there is a boost control module available for the Power FC, and this seems to be the best option, if you go the Apex'i route, as the boost control module allows much more fine tuning of the boost, than even Apexi's own stand-alone AVC-R electronic boost controller. You'll also want to get the remote commander unit, as this is a digital display that allows you to control all the engine paramaters and do tuning, without having to hook the box up to a laptop.

Another option is to get an HKS F-Con V or F-Con S (cheaper)... or for that matter a Ralliart ECU or Mines ECU. These are cheaper than a fully configurable box like the Apex'i (or Motec/Gems/Haltech/etc.) solution, but cannot be reprogrammed w/o sending the box back to the factory.

I don't pretend to be an expert on these things, and I'm sure if I've got something wrong, someone eminently more knowledgeable will post a correction!


Discussion Starter · #3 ·
akct,Hesperus has covered most of the options,many people like me have there own prefered route of tuning its a very subjective thing.I will try to assist you based on the route I took.

My Dairy.. Evo 6 TME
Step one.I fitted a HKS Super Dragger Exhaust.
HKS Powerflow Induction Kit
Magnex Down Pipe
Mitsubishi Electronic Boost Gauge
I found my car was now naturally boosting to 1.2 no fuel cuts(Once you get above that you are in risk territory .

Step Two.Fitted Ralliart Sports ECU
Fitted Smaller restictor(Waste gate pipe) which increased boost to 1.5 maximum swing but only held about 1.25 and was inconsistant,good power increase,and throttle response but run out of puff in 5th unsteady tickover ,this was put down to the Ralliart Ecu.

Step Three.Fitted Spec-R relocation kit and Apexi Filter(Removed Power Flow)
Fitted Apexi AVCR Boost Controller (This does away with the original piping to actuator and the restrictor.)
Boost set to 1.5 and calibrated for each gear.Boost now holding 1.4 car felt much more responsive in gears 1-4 and was quicker,but in 5th still seemed to be running out of puff.It was decided that the Ralliart Ecu was retarding the ignition to much at higher revs and the engine needed more fuel so....

Step Four.Removed the Spec-r relocation kit as it was decided it was not ideal for the breathing of the engine and the tickover was a problem,and replaced it with a HKS Racing Suction Kit ,was going for a Cusco Re-Location and Blitz Filter but the Cusco was a wait of 2 weeks and I was impatient.
Removed the Ralliart ECU and replaced it with the Standard ECU
Fitted Apexi AFC Fuel Controller
Fitted Walbro Uprated Fuel Pump
Fitted FSE Fuel Regulator
Removed Super Dragger replaced with a 3 System from Japan it runs from downpipe back and really helps the engine breath more easily.

The car is now perfect ,when I boot it in low gears the car trys to torque steer ,it is savage,in 5th it pulls like it is in 4th and just keeps going estimated power 350bhp at least and lots of torque,good fuel consumption as well and no detonation or pinking,I have fitted ARP Bolts but apart from that the engine internals are standard,

Step Four was Carried our by RC Developments who now exclusively look after my car and its development.
As you can see its all trail and error which is the best bit of owning an EVO getting everything to work in harmony and achieving the performance you want.I went down the wrong route a couple of times but I got their in the end;and so will you.

Good luck Barry:)
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