[TimmyEvo6]

fitted my SPA digital temp/pressure gauge at weekend. took a few pics.

probably best to do at the same time as oil and oil filter change.

heres a rough guide.

tools needed;

24 pack of stella (330 ml bottles)
wheel brace + jack
spanners
sockets
screw drivers
sheeting for lying on
Mr Muscle oven cleaner


1;
loosen O/S/F wheel (drivers side)
jack up front of car and remove wheel.
remove the plastic arch liner, there are quite a few fiddly fixing here, take care on to break them as its easily done coz they're only plastic.

with the arch liner removed you'll be able to see the oil filter

 

[TimmyEvo6]

2;

i used the 2 grommets on above the oil filter, they require an allen key to remove them, they are tight but will undo.

in the pic you can see the one that is easy to get at, the other is tucked around the back of the filter

 

[TimmyEvo6]

this shot shows both of the grub screws that need to be removed

 

[TimmyEvo6]

3, i used a 1/8th - 3/8th NTP reducer for my sensors.

i taped them up with quite a few wraps of PTFE tape.

i think its 18mm to tighten them, bit of a difficult angle but YOU CAN DO IT!

 

[TimmyEvo6]

now you need to screw the sensor into the tapping reducer, this one is VERY not easy because of the brace bar, but i managed it and i'm a retard!

again tape it up with PTFE tape and screw it in.

 

[TimmyEvo6]

pic for above post!

 

[TimmyEvo6]

now do the same with the other grub screw,

replace with 1/8th - 3/8th reducer, screw that in with PTFE, screw your sensor into the reducer with ptfe.

this 1 was quite tight to the drive shaft but i was happy it was clear enough.

 

[TimmyEvo6]

route the cables up the brake cables

 

[TimmyEvo6]

them route both the cables up thw ABS wires using cable ties to attach

 

[TimmyEvo6]

now, you need to get the wires through the bulk head.

i used this area, it comes out the other wide well up inside and out of the way.

 

[TimmyEvo6]

i cut the wires to be able to feed them through the bulkhead because of the connector block.

remove the trim inside the car to get access behind

 

[TimmyEvo6]

you'll need a 'live' (red) and 'ground' (black) i ran the ground to a screw using a blue ring connector.

 

[TimmyEvo6]

i ran the red live up to the steering colum, and cut it into a 'live' that becomes 'live' with the ignition 'on'.

it is the BLUE AND BLACK wire that come out of the connection block on the back of the ignition barrel.

here you can only see the insulation tape covering it.

 

[TimmyEvo6]

next i re-connected the wires from the sensors to the wires coming from the connection block on the back of the gauge.

BEFORE YOU CUT THE WIRES, MARK THEM SO YOU KNOW WHICH WIRE BELONGS TO EACH OTHER!!

then i threaded the wires up around the dash to get them into the place i wanted them.

the dash will move enough to allow you to thread the wires once you've removed the retaining screws.

 

[TimmyEvo6]

now you've got your wires up to where you need them, you can mount your gauge how you want, i'm waiting to get my pillar mounted pod presently.

now you can put the dash back together, put the wheel back on, start the motor and check for any leaks and to see your new gauge COME TO LIFE!!

now start on the stella! :coolsm:

this is only a basic guide, i've probably done it to far less of a standard than most on here but i don't really care!

 

[Steve220]

thankyou Tim, you've done it the way it was intended Top tutorial mate

 

[TimmyEvo6]

thankyou Tim, you've done it the way it was intended Top tutorial mate

i thank you, you were the man who informed me of locations for sensors and also the requried reducers!!

 

[Steve220]

i thank you, you were the man who informed me of locations for sensors and also the requried reducers!!

beers on you then

 

[TimmyEvo6]

beers on you then

see first item in the 'tools required' heading.

 

[Eight Speed]

Superb write up mate