Many people point towards G-Force placed on the car in track situation but its well recognized in the USA Canada that the actual cause is in plain terms a momentary lack of oil to the plain bearing in the pump itself. As soon as this occurs its good bye oil pump as the steel shaft picks up on the Aluminium plain bearing and the seal usually pops out followed by oil thereafter.
How this occurs is open for debate but the only rational cause is well documented by Magnus Motorsports . They are of the opinion that the cylinder head and its design is the cause of the problem . They have talked about this and many follow there theroy in the USA Canada.
Magnus point to the cause as the lack of oil return holes in the cylinder head and this intern stops oil from returning to the oil pan and as a result causes a lack of oil avaliable to the oil pickup. Of course this can manifest itself with low pressure on high speed corners but the facts remain its usually as a result of the return oil not being able to get to the oil pan fast enough.
As a result of years of testing Magnus is the only company to have used a cylinder head scavange on there dry sump sysytem .
Of course many people hae many opinions but its good to listen to companies like Magnus and there years in the 4g63 Industry.
:thumbup:
From Magnus Website :-
Magnus Dry Sump Full Kit
Introducing a properly engineered Dry Sump oiling solution for the 4G63!
Magnus took their 15+ years of experience working with the 4G63 and re-engineered the entire oiling system from the ground up. Don’t listen to the internet forums and other companies out there that tell you need a special balance shaft, or some special oil to stop from ruining motors turbo’s and oil pumps. Magnus took this project very seriously and over the last few years has been collecting data from all of the race cars it has in the field. Of all the failures ever recorded, from Oil pump failures, to turbo failures, they could have all been avoided had there not been a drop in oil pressure. We would hate to know how many turbochargers have been falsely accused of failing because of lack of oil.
Simply put It comes down to a few things as to why the Stock oil pump will not work within what we are trying to do.
-The stock oil pump was designed to turn at a maximum of 8000 RPM.
-The pressure relief valve is designed to handle enough flow for the stock pump at 8000 RPM (7000 in the DSM’s case) Unless it is enlarged it cannot bypass enough oil, unless it is shimmed sometimes it won’t make enough pressure.
-Any overdriving of the OEM Oil pump (8000 plus RPM); because it is a positive displacement pump, will pump a large amount of oil into the cylinder head. From which it has a hard time returning.
-The EVO only has a few small drains in the cylinder head to return oil, The DSM has half of what the evo has. This makes for a difficult path to replenish the oil reserve in the pan
- This drain problem can be compounded by the fact that many motors have too much blow by because they are running the wrong piston and pin at high RPM’s the pistons are deforming and causing the rings to no longer seal. Most companies use shelf pistons, with plagiarized knock offs of the pistons we used 10 years ago, those aren’t going to cut it today, and they cause these issues, consider new pistons as well (LINK TO NEW PISTONS)
- High RPM launch control, Cornering, Launching, Braking, any one of these will upset the oil level in your car. In drag racing what we experience is 2 step launch control for
2- 4 seconds (depleting the pan of oil) a multiple G-force launch, moving the oil to the back of the pan. High rpm runs in the 8500 – 11,000 RPM range, further depleting the pan of oil. Then trying to drain back through only 3 holes in the DSM engine’s case. Then we pull the parachute, so what little oil is left is pushed to the front of the motor. You can see why we resorted to overfilling our engines and immediately shutting them down after crossing the line. Overfilling the engines just would end up filling our breather tanks, causing other problems. All of these problems together can cause the oil level in the pan to run below the oil pickup, causing the pump to run dry and destroy your engine, oil pump, or turbo.
If we moved to an external reservoir, that could always supply oil we would be able to eliminate all of these problems. We need a dry sump oiling system.
The 4G63 has always proved to be a difficult engine to mount a dry sump externally, the oil pump itself supported the timing belt. Many people though the timing belt itself was killing the oil pumps. It wasn’t. Many thought the removal of the balance shaft was removing support and thus killing the oil pump. It wasn’t. What would kill the oil pump was only one thing only lack of oil. Any moment we logged a drop in oil pressure after inspection and teardown of the pump the oil pump would be damaged.
We took the engineering challenge of making an entire solution for the 4G63 and here is how we did it.
The Features:
We engineered an entire front cover with a sealed bearing that could handle big loads. We were planning on using the original gear but that plan was scrapped in favor of designing an entirely new gear ourselves and manufacturing it in house. It no longer drives the oil pump; It is now just an idler pulley and allows you to use the original belt. The front cover has original timing marks for when you are timing your motor; It fits 7 bolt and EVO crank sensor. It can be custom made in 6 bolt to fit crank trigger option if you need as well. Original oil seal fits in. We made entirely new gaskets out of the same gasket material and same thickness, to retain the original distance from the trigger wheel to the sensor.
We chose a High volume pump with large steel gears so we could get maximum scavenge you should still pull vacuum in the crankcase at 20 psi of boost with this setup.
There are 4 stages 1 stage to pump oil, 3 stages to scavenge, 2 from the pan, one from the cylinder head to clear all the oil that gets stuck in the head from running high rpm, and fills your puke tank (you fast guys know what I’m talking about)
The DSM block does not have enough drains, now we have -12 vacuum pump working on that nonstop. We selected this pump to work both in road race and in drag race, the only difference will be tank size.
The pump can supply the pressure flow and scavenge we need to make 1400 – 1500 WHP, and we’re not talking about imaginary hp, or Crank hp, were talking about 1400 to the wheels, 202 mph in a 2350 lb sled. No false claims, no BS. We have actually done it are the only ones who have done it and raced it successfully for years. We know what kind of oil pressure is needed to survive up there @ 11,000RPM, do the math, the rest are still trying, and claiming they can do it.
In Road race applications it has helped tremendously in keeping oil pressure to the motor. In particular downhill sweepers where the OEM pump would have a problem running dry.
Fuel pump drive : The fuel pump can be driven from the back of the pump. If you toss a belt and your car will shut off.
Drive : We chose to drive from the cam. For a few reasons, the additional cost for the correct bolt and mandrel were more, not to mention the fact that by the time you go past the front pulley, your pump is in nowhere land at the extremities of your chassis usually getting in the way of Big Slicks. This keeps the pump compact and tight to the block on a rigid mount. Not using a 4 inch mandrel and long bolt hanging off the most flexible piece in the car (the crankshaft) helps dampen peculiar vibrations we have seen when running long mandrels out there. Also off the cam the drive is 1:1, again simpler solution
