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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi guys i have just recieved my new evo 7 :) what oil grade are you using. i have had a look at the ralliart manual but it is recommending 10-30 for these kind of temps.

what grade have you guys been using and what type :). the dealer said that i should use semi synthetic for the fist 4000miles and then fully synthetic after that.

comments please
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Sam,

Unsure about the grade, but the dealer pours in Shell Helix Ultra. The exact same stuff that the Scooby dealer fill the turbos with. AWD are doing my bottom end bolts next week so god knows what will go in then.

Not really much help I know...sorry.

...John
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
hi john
thanks for the reply at least. shell ultra helix is semi synthetic isn't ? you should only use it for the first service or so and after that you should get a fully synthetic stuff.

i spoke a dealer who also recommended using semi synth for the fist service and then full synthetic afterwards. this makes sense and is the same as you would treat the subaru engine and probably any enigine.

since the oil grade and type is on of the most important things for your engine i am surprised that no one knows.

usually you would use something thin for normal day to day and winter use, 10/40 should be ok and then you would use 10/60 ir 15/50 for track use, basically something that will not break down after track use.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, yer right it is semi-synth. I didn't know about the first service only line of thought. I guess that is what you get for blindly handing over the car to the dealer for a service, and just acceptin' what they give you.

I will be getting my car serviced by AWD from now on as they are half the price of the main dealer and use parts supplied by co-ord. NO point wasting money as I don't have a warranty to worry about. I was of the mind-set that a dealer stamp in the sevice book was worth more on selling that a specialist?? Don't know if that would be that case.

I seem to remember a thread on oils a while ago... and amp;lt;search function and amp;gt;....debating the rating of mobil 1. Either 0/40 or 15/50....I cant remember if these are correct but I'm sure someone will help.

...John
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hi john
AWD are quite good and don't charge you an arm and a leg for their hourly rate. when are you going to get the big end bolts done ? i may nip over if i have got time. any excuse to run the car in i suppose :)

i have had mine done from the start before i took delivery.

sam
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sam,

I'll uprate the rest if my power figures suggest I do. Hopefully I'll get there. I probably should have got the lot done, but justifying the extra cost at the moment would mean the wee boy getting an apple and 'maybe a satsuma in his stocking. He should be grateful at that :D Daddy needs a new Ecu ;)

I'm taking the 6 over to AWD next Wednesday afternoon. Dave is working on it on Thursday. Hopefully I'll collect it Friday if not Saturday.

...John
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sam

Use a semi-synthetic 10-40w up to 3K miles ( changed mine twice 1.5K ) then go to Castrol RS 10-60W fully synthetic oil. ( change yourself in between the 4.5 K services )

DO NOT USE 10-30W / 10-40W oils if you intend doing any hard useage , if you read the Ralliart manual at UK temps you need the thicker oils , some people quote the oils suitable for Japan ie 10-30W which is B*ll*cks.

My car never uses oil and amp; the tappets never rattle even on initial start up from cold. ;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Castrol RS 10W60 is the dogs under carriage, dont be mistaken by the castrol RS sold in halfords its 0W40 and far to thin. I to use RS 10W60 after trying loads of other decent stuff including Mobil 1 15W50, RS seems to be the best compromise between cold start flow rate and high temp protection my local Cafco sells is at just under £30 for 4 litres, so its not too pricey either.

Dunc
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
cheers guys

you have just confirmed what i thought, i used to use castrol 10/60 for track days only but now i think i will try it all the time.

cheers

sam
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
4 the sake of an alternative view , 10w30 is advised by Mits , this is suitable 4 the Japanese climate which becomes a gr8 deal hotter in summer than the UK , our climate is termed moderate. So , 10w30 is ok there and here.
There is substantially more 2 selecting oil than simply choosing by viscosity , check out some oil tech sites 2 c.
4 reference , I use Redline 10w30 , this is probably the best synthetic oil on the market. c www.redlineoil.com
So far , my slightly modded VI (340 brake) , uses no oil , tappets r silent etc , etc.

Using 2 high a viscosity oil in an engine designed 4 a 10w30 can cause problems , ie , premature oil pump failure , overheated bearings , oil seal failure etc.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
@sam elassar

Who told you that Helix Ultra is SEMI-synthetic? Here in Austria it is clearly written on the bottle FULL-synthetic ...my Mitsu garage also fills in Helix Ultra, not only for the first service...
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
evo boy
very interesting. redline is with out a doubt one of the best oil available, so is Motul which i have used for my car 10/40 for normal day to day running. castrol 10/60 was the only oil that gave good oil pressure reading for me slighlty higher than the Motul. mobile motor sport 15/50 was very poor of oil pressure in comparison to these two. but i am talking about a modified subaru engine here. that is why i asked this question.

looking at the manual the EVO engine seem to use a slightly thinner oil but require more frequent oil changes than my scoob. what is the oil pressure/temp that the EVO engine run ? anyone has an oil pressure/temp gauge fitted?

do you think that 10/60 will be too thick for normal day to day driving.

Evo6lx
the shell ultra i have seen in here is semi synthetic unless they have changed it, i have not used it for a while now. i will check when my car is getting serviced :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Dragon suggested Millers 10/60 for me, please advise if this is not a good route for normal (soft?) city driving?

lee
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Lee,
Stop start city driving is almost the worst an engine has 2 endure , the engine heats up slowly , doesn't really reach full operating temp in winter , lots of fuel dilution to the oil , accumulation of water and combustion by-products in the oil etc.
Using an oil of 2 high a viscosity will exacerbate this situation , the Evo engine is designed 2 use 10w30 synthetic (best available is Redline and Amsoil) and because the above r deemed severe operating conditions by manufacturers change it even more frequently , say , 3000 miles(if city driving represents more than 50% of use) , or if u do very low mileage per year change on a time basis , say every 6 months.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Lee,
Stop start city driving is almost the worst an engine has 2 endure , the engine heats up slowly , doesn't really reach full operating temp in winter , lots of fuel dilution to the oil , accumulation of water and combustion by-products in the oil etc.
Using an oil of 2 high a viscosity will exacerbate this situation , the Evo engine is designed 2 use 10w30 synthetic (best available is Redline and Amsoil) and because the above r deemed severe operating conditions by manufacturers change it even more frequently , say , 3000 miles(if city driving represents more than 50% of use) , or if u do very low mileage per year change on a time basis , say every 6 months.
 
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