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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I'm no filter expert but normally recommend sticking to OEM one however others may be more expert than me on this one.

Cheers
Simon
 

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AYC

Thank You Simon for the info...Do you have the oil for the AYC? Can you pm me price, thanx again!!
 

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well simon john here need 2 find out what oil goes in my evo iv gear box an front an rear diff have been given some advice by other members but just want 2 make sure
thanks john
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Fully synthetic 75w-90 in gearbox and differential.

Recommend Silkolene SYN 5 75w-90 or Motul 300 75w-90, they are both GL4 gear oils with GL5 load carrying capability for road and competition LSD''s.

Cheers
Simon
 

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Hi simon, i wonder if you could recommend an oil for my evo1, it has 70k on the clock, and is need of a good service as i drive like a lunatic all the time :D
also, the box makes a little crunch in to fifth, would replacing the transmition fluid help?? if so could you recommend a good one please?

ta very much.

chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Would recommend you use a proper fully synthetic like Silkolene PRO S 10w-50 or Motul 300V 10w-40.

For gearbox (manual) recommend Silkolene SYN 5 75w-90.

Tech data here: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm

Cheers
Simon
 

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Evo VIII FQ-300 - Engine Oil (dealer choice)

Hi Simon

I dont know if you can help on this one.

I have an VIII FQ-300, 18,000 miles or so, with just a downpipe and decat.

The Mitsubishi dealers have always used Castrol SLX 0W30 as the engine oil - is this a good choice - they've insisted that this is the oil recomended by Mitsubishi?

Many thanks

Darren
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Well, I can only see 5w-30, 5w-40, 10w-30 or 10w-40 recommended in my database.

Is this listed in your handbook? Can you scan and post a copy of the relevant page in your handbook here and I'll take a look at it.

Cheers
Simon
 

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Hiya Si,

A rally team uses Silkolene Pro R 15w/50 Oil on my Evo7 FQ300 (approx 17K miles)

Now whats the difference between this and Silkolene Pro S 10w/50 Oil as the Pro S is slightly more expensive and i wondered why??

cheers

Jono
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
They both excellent products but the formulation on the S is more expensive. There is more ester in the S than the R which makes it a slightly better product.

They are both streets ahead of most of the competition though.

What I do find surprising is the choice of viscosity.

I would have put them in this order for suitabiliy:

Pro S 5w-40
Pro S 10w-50
Pro R 15w-50

Cheers
Simon
 

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Ahh cheers mate, :cool:

So basically heres what i think, both Pro S and Pro R have the same properties and perform exactly the same when the engine is hot hence the 50W. On cold startup however the Pro S 10W-50 is better than the Pro R 15W-50 as it reaches the engines components quicker due to the 100% esters involved. So theoritically a 5W-50 oil would be even better. Does that sound right?

Cheers.

Jono
Ps why do rally teams use thicker oil then? maybe something to do with leaks? I guess they are not as bothered about engine wear at cold start cos they are constantly rebuilding them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
You're correct apart form the 5w-50 bit.

Wide viscosity oils are less stable as they need more VI Improvers
and this makes them prone to shear.

5w-40 is a far more thermally stable grade than 5w-50 as is 10w-50 vs 10w-60 - Get it?

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Simon
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
I'll demonstrate to you why they use thicker oils.

Names witheld at request.

From: xxxx
Sent: 07 May 2004 16:16
To: Rowland, John

Subject: Peugeot Cosworth - result!

John

Just a note to let you know I've heard from xxxx - the rally driver with the 300+bhp Peugeot-ice-racer-bodied hybrid with the normally asthmatic Cosworth in the back.

Prior to you taking over, he used to have to strip the engine after every event (normally 45 miles, he couldn't get it to last for a National event of 70-80 miles) and change the big end bearings every time.

He'd been everywhere and tried everything (including Halfords!), and couldn't solve his problem.

First off, he was really surprised when you asked to look at the bearings, as no-one had ever asked! He was equally surprised by your recommendation to go thinner, and also, I have to say, worried. He equated 'thickness' with 'better
protection'.


I eventually persuaded him to try Pro S 5w/40, as you suggested.

He called me to say he'd stripped the engine this week, after it's FOURTH event (approx 200 competitive miles!), and there isn't a mark on it. He is utterly delighted, and asked me to pass on his thanks for all your help and expertise.

I'd also like to add my thanks to you. He is extremely influential in competition circles, and is now going to tell the world and his wife what, and who, sorted this problem.

Once again, many thanks
Regards

I would also add to this that most top rally teams in modern cars (Subaru etc) use 5w-40 proper synthetics. In their case MOTUL 300V 5w-40. I have this confirmed by MOTUL.

Cheers
Simon
 

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:eek: This is very interesting stuff Simon, thankyou for taking the time to reply ;)

So now im left with which one to go for.

Now bearing in mind that i drive my car very hard. Its probably running about 310-315bhp. If i go for the shear stable 5W-40 i will have great cold start protection but if i run the car very hard i am better off with a higher Viscousity oil such as a 10W-50 or 15W-50 (currently) however isnt the 10W-50 oil less thermally stable than the 15W-50 grade due to the higher Viscosity range? Does this mean that the 10W will Bio-degrade faster than the 15W thus more frequent oil changes but better overall temperature range/Lubricity protection due to the 100% Ester content?? Basically the more Ester molecules, the better + healthier/cleaner the engine runs??

btw
What oil Viscosity was the rally driver using prior to changing to 5W-40?

cheers

Jono
 

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Yes we do mike. :D lol!! ;)

Simon, do we have to use a flush when changing oil grades?
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Scrappy said:
Yes we do mike. :D lol!! ;)

Simon, do we have to use a flush when changing oil grades?
DOnt use a flushing oil or addative, if you want to flush the engine, follow this proceedure as some flusher are a kerosene or parrafin mix :eek:

Flushing Procedure (Don't use flushing oils or additives)

1. Warm up engine to get oil circulating
2. Turn off engine and drain old oil
3. Fill with new oil to minimum (you will be wasting this)
4. Warm up engine to get oil circulating
5. Turn off engine, drain new oil and change filter
6. Fill to marker on dipstick

Cheers

Simon.
 
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