[danb87]

I have recently fitted a replacement set of coil packs for my c.o.p kit.

i have noticed a strange occurrence when starting the engine, not everytime but say 1 out of 4, it really struggles to start dash lights ( oil/engine etc) faze on/off an it takes 2-3 turnovers to start an the 2 indicator lights flash f on for a second or 2.

what could this possibly be? something with the new coil packs ? or something else. - it kind of has that feel of battery struggling, but its pretty much new itself. an this only happens as said 1 out of 4 attempts.

can any one shed some ideas as to what?

thanks

dan

 

[stu8]

my first thought was battery too, maybe a faulty battery. Also check battery connections are good, both at the battery and at starter motor and earth point

Suppose it could also be a sign the starter motor is failing

Stu

 

[danb87]

my first thought was battery too, maybe a faulty battery. Also check battery connections are good, both at the battery and at starter motor and earth point

Suppose it could also be a sign the starter motor is failing

Stu

i did think the starter myself, but its only been since swapping over the coil packs. which i find odd.

would the starter not struggle everytime i start? if it was on its way out?

thanks for the response :smthumbup

 

[stu8]

i did think the starter myself, but its only been since swapping over the coil packs. which i find odd.

would the starter not struggle everytime i start? if it was on its way out?

thanks for the response :smthumbup

did you disconnect the battery when fitting the coil packs?

Could just be coincedence

I suppose if the contacts in the starter are on the way out it might give intermittant issues. Just things that spring to mind rather than actual diagnosis.

Other option is to wait till it fails, could be inconvenient, but also makes intermittant issues easier to find

Stu

 

[danb87]

did you disconnect the battery when fitting the coil packs?

Could just be coincedence

I suppose if the contacts in the starter are on the way out it might give intermittant issues. Just things that spring to mind rather than actual diagnosis.

Other option is to wait till it fails, could be inconvenient, but also makes intermittant issues easier to find

Stu

no i did not disconnect. was i supposed to?

 

[stu8]

no i did not disconnect. was i supposed to?

nope, just considered good practice to disconnect a battery before doing any work on a car, so thought maybe if you had, then its re-connection may not have made a good connection

Before investigating further, i'd be tempted to get the battery tested with a propper battery tester, 1 that will test its cca, just to eliminate, as thats the easiest place to start

Stu

 

[danb87]

nope, just considered good practice to disconnect a battery before doing any work on a car, so thought maybe if you had, then its re-connection may not have made a good connection

Before investigating further, i'd be tempted to get the battery tested with a propper battery tester, 1 that will test its cca, just to eliminate, as thats the easiest place to start

Stu

ill have a word with my mate on this one. see if he has one to hand.

any other ideas or possibilities.

 

[danb87]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[danb87]

Just a vid to show whats happening.

this was not from cold, i had driven the car 10 mins stopped for 5 then this was restart.

thanks

 

[Draven]

does give the feel of a dodgy battery / connection. or bad grounding.

 

[stu8]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

does it do it every start now?

Stu

 

[danb87]

does it do it every start now?

Stu

No mate occasionally. 1 out of 4 starts say.

 

[stu8]

really does seem like battery, starter, bad connection, or even the heavy cable damage (burn out inside, not physical damage). Just hard to pinpoint when it doesnt do it every time

As I say, for me i'd start at the battery, as its the easiest thing to get tested

Stu

 

[Draven]

And remember bad grounding can cause fires. So i'd get the multimeter out ASAP and investigate it

 

[danb87]

really does seem like battery, starter, bad connection, or even the heavy cable damage (burn out inside, not physical damage). Just hard to pinpoint when it doesnt do it every time

As I say, for me i'd start at the battery, as its the easiest thing to get tested

Stu

I will be checking this. thanks

 

[danb87]

brief look, battery is all connected nicely, an terminals appear fine. earth seems to be in a good clean point on the car. need to try an source equipment to test battery etc.

 

[stu8]

brief look, battery is all connected nicely, an terminals appear fine. earth seems to be in a good clean point on the car. need to try an source equipment to test battery etc.

probably more chance taking the car or battery to the place you bought the battery from, or a garage that sells batteries, not something they'd lend out, but a 2 minute test they do regularly

Stu

 

[lawsy]

Pop into any garage and get them to test your battery

 

[danb87]

Just a small update, had battery tested with snap on tester - come up as green - 76% ,
where the battery is relocated to boot, it has a vibration isolator fixed under bonnet, which has worn. which i will be replacing. earth in the boot of car is going to be re done also point cleaned up etc.

car struggled very badly this morning. and is also struggling to stay started when come to a stop at lights, revs dropping down etc oil dash light flickering.

could this mean anything else?

thanks

 

[stu8]

Just a small update, had battery tested with snap on tester - come up as green - 76% ,
where the battery is relocated to boot, it has a vibration isolator fixed under bonnet, which has worn. which i will be replacing. earth in the boot of car is going to be re done also point cleaned up etc.

car struggled very badly this morning. and is also struggling to stay started when come to a stop at lights, revs dropping down etc oil dash light flickering.

could this mean anything else?

thanks

I was holding off saying to get the alternator checked, purely because it was intermittant, but it maybe worth chacking the voltage across the battery with the engine running just to eliminate.

now you have said the battery is relocated to the boot, that makes the earth points and condition of the cables even more important

You say the battery was new, 76% doesnt sound great, but did the test give you the available cca of the battery? What battery have you fitted in the boot?

Lastly, now you say its affecting the running too, just to be sure, check the bottom crank pulley hasnt lost its outer ring and left the belt running on the remaining inner. Check on here for pics before you look, as it wont look out of place if it is wrong, so you need to know exactly what the pulley should look like

Pic ive attached is the outer ring off the pulley that disappears, but you need to see a pic of a complete pulley, if you arent familiar with them

Stu