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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey, recently bent all my inlet valves on my Evo 8 gsr(mivec) swapped the head and by mistake put an Evo 5 head on, missed it in the small prin on the add, got confused with the engine numbers etc because they were the same, car runs but no mivec and runs 0.6 bar boost instead of 1.2bsr like before, basicly can someone tell me what's going on with my engine ATM.. and will it damamge it if the car is driven the way it is ? Car is standard apart from an induction kit
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Evo 8 gsr, 1.2bar boost, mivec. Only mod is apexi induction kit, swapped an Evo 5 head on, it was my mistake, looked the same, for same engine, but now no mivec, and 0.6bsr boost, runs alright though. 1. To get it back to how it was is there anything I can do with the 5 head or do I need my original head back in? And 2, if it's driven like it is, is it going to mess anything up and possibly cause damage? Reason for head swap, bent all my inlet valves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey, well at about 5-5.5k there was a very noticeable exhaust note change and felt like a power increase, but now there's nothing, how would I tell if my head was an 8 or a 9? And that's why Im asking, reading through forums people say only the 9, going to look at my old head tonight/tomorrow and try figure it out.
Doug
 

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are the vac lines to the boost solenoid plumbed the right way round.has the jet fallen out of the vac line?
 

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Hey, well at about 5-5.5k there was a very noticeable exhaust note change and felt like a power increase, but now there's nothing, how would I tell if my head was an 8 or a 9? And that's why Im asking, reading through forums people say only the 9, going to look at my old head tonight/tomorrow and try figure it out.
Doug
mivec engines do not have a pronounced switch point like VTEC...

if you had a mivec head it would have this type of inlet cam sprocket


and a solenoid valve on the rear side of the head, with external oil line attached..
 

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are the vac lines to the boost solenoid plumbed the right way round.has the jet fallen out of the vac line?
basically this, make sure the P Jet restrictor is still in the correct place, but also, make sure you have pre-tensioned the actuator half a hole

Stu
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey thanks for the replies, yea it's deffinitly not a mivec head, just got really confused while I was trying to find a difference between heads, it's the standard boost set up, found a vac line from the dump valve had snapped off, fixed it but still the same, will check the actuater next, and check to see if the restricted is still in the pipe, also I've read somewhere that if the solenoid goes, it will restrict the boost to 0.6-0.7 bar? Could that have gone? Been checking vag lines and can't see anything untoward, no splits, no leaks in the inlet side, no blows from engine-turbo
 

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ok so you need to check that The P Jet is in the pipe between the boost source nipple and the T-piece to work correctly, and the actuator eye is as in the pics, before you pull (extend) it to get it on the wastegate shaft

If the solenoid goes it could give approx 0.8 bar (assuming its a standard actuator) or over 2 bar, just depends if its stuck open or closed

Thing is with stuff like this is its a systematic process of elimination, start checking for leaks, then actuator etc

Stu
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just had a look at my boost solenoid, the vac lines are the right way round, to dump valve- to t peice, will check the p jet is in the right place as it's easy enough to get to, and look for leaks again, mabe even just refer my hoses incase there not sitting right, will keep you updated, Thankyou I do appreciate your help! I've researched as much as I can about heads and I believe it won't matter that I have a 5 head on an 8 block, as far as I can tell, jut to clarify, do you agree?
Doug
 

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Just had a look at my boost solenoid, the vac lines are the right way round, to dump valve- to t peice, will check the p jet is in the right place as it's easy enough to get to, and look for leaks again, mabe even just refer my hoses incase there not sitting right, will keep you updated, Thankyou I do appreciate your help! I've researched as much as I can about heads and I believe it won't matter that I have a 5 head on an 8 block, as far as I can tell, jut to clarify, do you agree?
Doug
what?? the pipes are connected to the boost solenoid and the dump valve, thats not right at all

I agree, 5 head or 8 head, you wont notice any difference

Stu
 

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what?? the pipes are connected to the boost solenoid and the dump valve, thats not right at all

I agree, 5 head or 8 head, you wont notice any difference

Stu
Ok, off the turbo is a small nipple, your small pipework comes from there to a T piece (the restrictor is in this pipe), from the T, 1 pipe goes to the actuator, other goes to the boost solenoid. Should be nothing else connected to that pipework. You may also have another pipe from the solenoid to the intake, or left open, or just no pipe connected to the other port on the solenoid

Stu
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Glad to hear about the head, would of been a costly mistake if it was wrong! Sorry I'm wording this horrendously, yea the pipes are as you say they are, one to the intake under the dump valve and the other goes to the t price and from there they are going to the right places, will check the restricted is in the pipe between turbo and t price probably tonight and re sit my intake pipes, will keep you updated, cheers stu
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Right the little brass restricted is in the right pipe, it's there thank god ! So that's rules that out, I've resat the boost pipes because I wasn't happy how they were mounted, checked for leaks, havnt checked the actuated pre tension yet, also saw that there's a test you can do with your boost solenoid by taking off the line that runs to the tee, and then revving the car and i should see higher boost readings? Obviously take care not to overboost it, but that would indicate boost solenoid? Weathers not very good and usual lock up is currently being used for a friends engine swap, so will be a when the weathers good kind of job trying to sort this out! Or atleast not raining :(
 

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Right the little brass restricted is in the right pipe, it's there thank god ! So that's rules that out, I've resat the boost pipes because I wasn't happy how they were mounted, checked for leaks, havnt checked the actuated pre tension yet, also saw that there's a test you can do with your boost solenoid by taking off the line that runs to the tee, and then revving the car and i should see higher boost readings? Obviously take care not to overboost it, but that would indicate boost solenoid? Weathers not very good and usual lock up is currently being used for a friends engine swap, so will be a when the weathers good kind of job trying to sort this out! Or atleast not raining :(
yep, that would be the next stage of tests, after you have checked the pre-tension

Stu
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hey, had another look at the vac lines, the brass restricted was in the pipe going to the actuater, was put back on wrong, I'm seeing 1.1-1.2 bar now !! Just took it for a few runs, think it's running alright!!! So happy!! Thankyou for all the help I really appreciate t couldn't of done it without you!
Doug
 
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