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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all think I am posting this in the right place ��. I have an evo 4 I have just installed an evo 6 ecu, 6 injectors, automotive 340 fuel pump, decat pipe, new fuel filter. Took it out for the first time yesterday and it is running really really good can feel the difference from the mods. I am a bit worried about it running lean now is there any way of telling without a map, there seems to be lots of carbon from the exhaust which to me seems that it's rich. Could anyone tell me if I took it to a local garage and they tested the emissions what should the readings be at idle and under load? Any help would be good. Thanks :confused:
 

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how much boost are you running?

As standard evo's do run rich, but as evo 5 onwards ecu's have been getting mapped for many years now, i'd say your best bet is to get the map checked properly

If you say your location, people will point you in the direction of people that can do it

Stu
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
how much boost are you running?

As standard evo's do run rich, but as evo 5 onwards ecu's have been getting mapped for many years now, i'd say your best bet is to get the map checked properly

If you say your location, people will point you in the direction of people that can do it

Stu
Hi stu I'm in North Yorkshire, I have an electronic apexi controller set at 1 bar. It just seems to run brilliantly lots better and smoother under load than before with the standard parts in. Cheers Chris
 

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Hi all think I am posting this in the right place ��. I have an evo 4 I have just installed an evo 6 ecu, 6 injectors, automotive 340 fuel pump, decat pipe, new fuel filter. Took it out for the first time yesterday and it is running really really good can feel the difference from the mods. I am a bit worried about it running lean now is there any way of telling without a map, there seems to be lots of carbon from the exhaust which to me seems that it's rich. Could anyone tell me if I took it to a local garage and they tested the emissions what should the readings be at idle and under load? Any help would be good. Thanks :confused:
An emissions test won't show you the fueling at wot. I have a spare wideband you can try for nowt if you want to check afrs, in goole way:smthumbup
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
An emissions test won't show you the fueling at wot. I have a spare wideband you can try for nowt if you want to check afrs, in goole way:smthumbup
Ok wideband? I really am new to this even though I have had the car for 6 years garaged most of them put back on the road last year then the mods were done through last winter been trying to get some pics posted but I can't figure that out either.:confused:
 

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it goes into the exhaust and you can either use a gauge or laptop to monitor whats coming out the back on full throttle
 

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Your fuel pressure will be all ****ed up with that big pump.

You need a fuel pressure gauge to measure it and then (try to) fix it.

You can't map it with a variable pressure.
 

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If you don't even know what wideband is, why do you want to fit non-standard ECU, pump and so on? Sorry, but learn the basics or go to a reputed tuner, otherwise you might have an expensive bill!
 

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Mapping done right with the stock regulator and aftermarket pump is something that is easily done. Stock regulator is fixed at 42 psi on idle under vacuum. The stock unit can handle even stronger pumps than the 340 such as the 400 one etc. I run a 6868 billet unit on my personal car and fully built setup with two pumps and although I run an adjustable fpr, I switched to the stock unit to see if there was any difference at idle, there was a slight difference, the setup run slightly richer but nothing that I could not fix in a matter of minutes through the ecu. I've run the setup at 2,6 bar and there were no issues whatsoever at partial or wot either on stock fpr. This setup is running around 800hp on pump gas. I've only switched back to the adjustable fpr as I as like the ability of fine tuning at the utmost degree possible.




What would make things a bit difficult for a mapper, depending on his experience of course, on the use of a stock fpr and high flow/volume aftermarket fueling system on a highly built setup, would be the use of an aggressive spec set of cams without dialing/zeroing it. In this scenario an adjustable fpr would make things easier.









Marios
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Mapped plenty with 340 on stock reg and fuel lines, never had an issue
Ok thanks for all advice I am new to this and I'm learning every day. Been thinking about doing the mods I have for a year now and finally decided to do it! Do you map evos ( sbn1979) just with you saying you have mapped many? Thanks again to everyone
 

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Ok thanks for all advice I am new to this and I'm learning every day. Been thinking about doing the mods I have for a year now and finally decided to do it! Do you map evos ( sbn1979) just with you saying you have mapped many? Thanks again to everyone
Job done, EVOTUNE.not that far from you:mitsi:
 

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Ok thanks for all advice I am new to this and I'm learning every day. Been thinking about doing the mods I have for a year now and finally decided to do it! Do you map evos ( sbn1979) just with you saying you have mapped many? Thanks again to everyone
Yes mate I have
 

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Mapping done right with the stock regulator and aftermarket pump is something that is easily done. Stock regulator is fixed at 42 psi on idle under vacuum. The stock unit can handle even stronger pumps than the 340 such as the 400 one etc. I run a 6868 billet unit on my personal car and fully built setup with two pumps and although I run an adjustable fpr, I switched to the stock unit to see if there was any difference at idle, there was a slight difference, the setup run slightly richer but nothing that I could not fix in a matter of minutes through the ecu. I've run the setup at 2,6 bar and there were no issues whatsoever at partial or wot either on stock fpr. This setup is running around 800hp on pump gas. I've only switched back to the adjustable fpr as I as like the ability of fine tuning at the utmost degree possible.

What would make things a bit difficult for a mapper, depending on his experience of course, on the use of a stock fpr and high flow/volume aftermarket fueling system on a highly built setup, would be the use of an aggressive spec set of cams without dialing/zeroing it. In this scenario an adjustable fpr would make things easier.

Marios
Adjustable/aftermarket FPRs ( such as Sard /Sytech etc )have to be superior ....they are shiny and come in different anodised colours even :D
Back on serious mode :angel:
 

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Mapped plenty with 340 on stock reg and fuel lines, never had an issue
When you're outflowing the regulator, the fuel pressure is determined by voltage and temperature, not the regulator.
The voltage is determined by engine RPM, battery condition and electrical load.

It depends on your own standards of work.
If you're a backyard mechanic, it might be OK.
If you want to think of yourself as a professional and charge for your work, it's not acceptable.

If you don't mind the state of tune changing with the weather, then it's OK.
If you want it as good as when it came out of the factory, then it's not OK.

It's like Stevie Wonder saying that the sparkplugs look good.
 
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