Very impressive Donald, looks very neat as well :smthumbup:coolsm:
Thanks, yea apart from the mould flaws the finished part has come out looking nice.Very impressive Donald, looks very neat as well :smthumbup:coolsm:
Yea I saw that one. Problem is I only have 3 jacks and the idea is to be able to lift the front at both sides then the rear can be lifted by hand while an axle stand is put under.Look at the SVA car as they did a side mount that fits into the holes made for the rally style stands .
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http://www.timeattack.co.uk/sva-attacking-evolution/#sthash.q9HIoHaW.dpbs
I can do this with only 2 jacks and keep one spare :smthumbupBuy another jack saves messing around with three, sure someone on here will have one
Not in the middle but just forward of the balance point so the back becomes light enough to lift without a jackAre you putting them in the middle of the sill?
Yep, I've started to fit 2 tubes through the sill which will keep the jack perpendicular to the sill. Rather than axle stands i'll make horseshoe stands that fit around the extended jack stanchions then I can release the air pressure and work under the car from there.obviously if your working under the car you will be using axle stands or something to make it safe so that's easy (your back to sill axle stands like rally cars), but I think you've answered your own questions Donald, if your only using it for the purpose of changing wheels then make the balance point say 10kgs heavier to the rear so when you have one wheel off it then favours the front and will then pivot to the front. I presume your jacking point is made of 2 holes rather than 1 as this will stop the tight twisting effect you would have by say only using a tight box section fit (if you follow), you could then offset the brackets on the jacks so you could insert them one way and that would lift the front then swap them side for side and it would then favour the rear.
4 jacks would make it proper easy like the SVA car.
good luck