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· Twincharged
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Discussion Starter · #2,142 ·
Ha ha, certainly gets a wriggle on when you fully prod the loud pedal towards the finish!! Look out next year.:smthumbup:smthumbup
It's a bit bumpy at the exit of the esses :lol:
 

· Twincharged
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Discussion Starter · #2,144 ·
Looking at the in car I can't even begin to think what it must be like to drive, it looks proper manic!

I,ve lost 2kg so far ................ Only another 55 to go.:smthumbup
Doune is mid April. That's your target date :smthumbup
 
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· Twincharged
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Discussion Starter · #2,146 ·
I've started changing my pipework to engineer out a few problem areas. The new plumbing will be simpler and lighter as I've taken the supercharger outlet upwards instead of downwards past the drive shaft and steering rack. This will let me go back to the full size sump and make it easier to work on. I've made a new supercharger bracket and manifolds, machined up some aluminium flange for the valves and modified the plenum to take the LS3 DBW throttle. Work is slow as there's a few other areas I'm redoing while I'm at it. I've re-plumbed the fuel system and moved the front brake pipes to give me more space in the engine bay. So far there have been a few challenges to overcome.

Also bought a bead roller. So much easier and neater than a bead of weld at the hose joins! Why didn't I buy one years ago?!

I haven't welded aluminium for over a year so I'm a little rusty. Not that it was stunning before but it's improving now I have a foot pedal for my TIG :smthumbup
 

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· Transmission Dynamics
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Nice one Donald, you definitely need a foot pedal with TIG. It takes a bit of getting used to, but makes it far easier to control!

Which bead roller did you get? I've been meaning to buy one myself! :smthumbup
 

· Twincharged
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Discussion Starter · #2,148 ·
Clive, the bead roller is Metz, found it on ebay. There's a few listings with buy it now of £140. This one was on auction and I was the only bidder :D. Good robust machine, just remember to anneal the tube first!

I find with the Tig foot pedal that it's difficult to control finely during the weld. If there was a way to set an upper limit on the welder and alter it's overall range it would be much better. As it is only tiny movements give substantial current changes. I'm sure it'll become second nature eventually though!
 

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· Transmission Dynamics
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Clive, the bead roller is Metz, found it on ebay. There's a few listings with buy it now of £140. This one was on auction and I was the only bidder :D. Good robust machine, just remember to anneal the tube first!

I find with the Tig foot pedal that it's difficult to control finely during the weld. If there was a way to set an upper limit on the welder and alter it's overall range it would be much better. As it is only tiny movements give substantial current changes. I'm sure it'll become second nature eventually though!
Ok, thanks for the info, I'll get one, looks good.

What welder do you have? It took me a while to dial into using my pedal, and being an amateur welder, probably longer than a pro due to infrequent use! My pedal has a pot on it which adjusts max amps when the pedal is fully down, it seems to be quite progressive up to that point.

I'd love to buy a Fronius at some point, but a bit extravagant due to the limited times that I use it. :D
 

· Twincharged
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4,556 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,151 ·
It's a NewArc 315 I have now. The Lincoln was only on loan for a few years. I found welding with the Lincoln easier tbh although I didn't use a foot pedal on it.

I'll have a look at the pedal again as it may have a limit adjuster. It's not new, no info with it. At the moment it goes up to 315A fully down so getting fine adjustment in between is tricky.
 

· Twincharged
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Discussion Starter · #2,154 ·
Looks a tidy enough weld Donald, even experience welders need to keep their hand in.

Surely you can just set the peak amps on the machine?!
The pedal seems to override the current settings on the welder. There's nothing on the pedal for adjustment. NewArc weren't very helpful tbh.

Lee, you just heat the alloy up then let it cool again and it's annealed. Rub a bit of soap on it and heat until the soap turns brown. That's it annealed, essentially softened so it can be worked. Once left for 24hrs it returns to its pre-annealed state. You have to be careful with threads and tightening bolts while alloy is in its softened state as you can strip a thread quite easily
 
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· Twincharged
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Discussion Starter · #2,156 ·
I'm just about finished the pipework now. Lots still to make and move around before I can start on the wiring. I'm going to be building a complete loom from scratch. Am sort of looking forward to that in some ways, bit under no illusion how big a job it'll be.

The new pipes are in the way of the front gearbox mount so a new mount had to be made. There wasn't any other way round it :wallbang:

Slowly getting there. I'll post up some photos soon :smthumbup
 
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· Twincharged
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Discussion Starter · #2,157 ·

· Twincharged
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Discussion Starter · #2,158 ·
Update for those still following the thread

I'm almost finished the mechanical and pipe works now. I had to make a new oil catch can and while I was at it I made a new PAS tank and tidied up the inner wing paintwork, as well as made up some new steering rack pipes. The new SC pipework was in the way of the original hoses.

I have a set of Bosch Motorsport 100MJ coils and am making a CNC'd mounting plate for them so they sit below the painted cover. This is an interesting project as I should be able to make up a kit for this in the very near future ;)

There will be 4 MAP sensors directly fitted to the pipes. With the new ECU I can log so much more, so I've added various sensors around the system for logging as much as I can. This should help with future development and changes to improve the system as I go ;)

I've also had to remake some new drive pulleys as I'm changing the supercharger ratio as part of the ongoing development.

Essentially I'm plumbing the system from the compound setup to a sequential setup very similar to how VW did it on their 1.4TSi engine. I expect top end power to remain similar but with better driveability and the ability to hold a constant 1.5bar at the throttle body at all times, except idle of course.

I'll be starting on the wiring loom over the next 2 weeks :smthumbup

So far everything is loosely bolted on and will need removed for final cleaning and assembly next year once I tidy up the engine bay paint work. I'm just positioning all the pipes and sensors now so I can build the loom next.

I'll update photos as I go :smthumbup
 

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· Twincharged
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Discussion Starter · #2,160 ·
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