Nice one Donald, good to see it up and running :smthumbup
Will watch your progress with interest, keep the updates coming
Will watch your progress with interest, keep the updates coming
I've been following, and looking forward to the next installments!The latest issue of Total Evolution Magazine is now in the shops. Part 4 of the feature covers the front subframe and final winter changes. Two more parts to go and the last part will reveal all about the twincharger system workings and how it has been achieved
Better get subscribed! :smthumbup
How many have been following this feature?
I couldn't get on at all with BPR8ES plugs, had lots of missfires at higher boost levels, so I swapped to NGK B9EGV - 5827, and all issues solved, I find them really good plugs.We're using the same as always NGK BPR8ES but tried a few others from non resistor to different electrode style and it didn't make that much difference TBH.
Welding billet or forged alumium is fine, but welding a cast Mitsi casing, not so good. They have a lot of impurities in the casting which causes problems when welding. Welding also creates internal stresses in the aluminium which can cause more problems than the extra bracing gives gains.It is possible to weld gussets onto the casing, or does the aluminium not take kindly to being welded?
The age isn't relevant, but the amount of fatigue the rods have endured is massively relevant.Excuse my lack of knowledge on this.....but does it really matter if they are 10 years old?
Im assuming (although hard miles) that the mileage on them isnt high?
Isnt mileage and heat cycles more important?
Who recommended the R&R rods?R&R rods came highly recommended so i'll give them a try.
Thanks for all your input guys. I only have personal experience of the Crower rods and one failed at the level I ran them at. I am totally aware that these rods failed due to the age and stress they have been under for years and that when new they would be more than able to do the job. I spoke to crower when I replaced the rod bolts and they stated the rods would only.need replaced if i wanted to go over 1400hp. That is USA horsepower so I always reckoned they were ok up to 1000 uk ponies.
As Ross says, he has used the R&R rods for years, sold many sets and never had a failure. I also did my own research after we initially spoke and couldn't see a single posting anywhere about any failures in any engine to date so I called him back and placed the order.
We all live and learn. My application is different from most others because I have so much low end torque and that's pushing the boundaries a bit. Failures like this happen. I'm amazed the engine lasted as long as it did :lol:
With such torque, power and my constant hard launches over many years I have always been aware that nothing is guaranteed and with good engine reliability for so long I put my meagre budget into other areas of weakness that was letting me down frequently - diffs, shafts, transfer box and gearbox/clutch etc and the engine had to take a back seat. The last time I had the engine apart I had the rods crack tested and they were fine. I also replaced the bearing shells a couple of winters back and replaced the rod bolts for genuine Crower ones at that time, so I didn't expect a rod to make a bid for freedom. They were due to be retired this winter.... so near yet so far....
I also rarely rev above 7800rpm but it has been above that a few times on the dyno lately. I think the Rev limit is set at 8300 rpm just now and the extra 140 hp discovered won't have done the rods any favours in their senior years :blush:
I'll be back on track soon enough though :smthumbup
Actually it was me who recommended the R&R rods with 625+ bolts Clive.
We've used this brand for last 7 years in our own high power applications.
The first three being exclusively in my own cars including our drag car which was the first UK Evo to break into the 8's on the quarter producing over 1000bhp.
We believe them to be of the highest quality, based on the design, material specification post manufacture processing and quality control. If you want some more details give me a shout. However I don't suppose a car that lives in the garage and has never really achieved anything would need a very strong rod
We are involved with a fair bit of Evo motorsport with most of our customers choosing this rod & have yet to see a failure of any sort.
I guess with supplied around 80 sets to date.
I agree the Carrillo I would be another good option. In actual fact Mike who owns and runs R&R was a former employee of Carrillo. I haven't personally run Carrillo to the level that Donald is going to need, so I can't recommend them myself, however we have run several on R&R with large shots of nitrous oxide below 4000rpm (chemical supercharging). So low RPM loading on the rod will be comparable to the supercharger.
Absolutely, whatever parts you use in the next build will be under a lot of stress, and I hope they are up to the 'test'Clive, The proof of the pudding is in the eating as they say. What better way to test a part other than fitting it into my car :lol:
I hope they are okay, I don't fancy having to build another engine from scratch again anytime soon![]()
Ok, thanks for the info, I'll get one, looks good.Clive, the bead roller is Metz, found it on ebay. There's a few listings with buy it now of £140. This one was on auction and I was the only bidder. Good robust machine, just remember to anneal the tube first!
I find with the Tig foot pedal that it's difficult to control finely during the weld. If there was a way to set an upper limit on the welder and alter it's overall range it would be much better. As it is only tiny movements give substantial current changes. I'm sure it'll become second nature eventually though!