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Madmac Motorsport's Twincharged Evo 5

598536 Views 2421 Replies 217 Participants Last post by  Madmac
During the winter build of the old Evo 5 hillclimb slag I decided to look at ways of reducing the turbo lag which was becoming an issue and costing precious hundredths of seconds on the hills last year. It never lacked top end power but the lag really started to get to me and i knew i could make it quicker point to point by reducing the lag - but keeping top end power.
I looked at many possible ways to do this but in the end settled for adding a supercharger to run in conjunction with the turbo.

Designed and built by myself with input from friends and members on MLR, most parts have been fabricated in my garage from whatever was lying around, the end result has been worth the blood, Sweat and tears I've put into this.

We've had her on the dyno at Wallace Performance in Aberdeen and had surprisingly few teething problems considering the unknowns and the huge amount of bespoke parts that needed to be designed, fabricated and made. Initial mapping is done now and the whole package is showing some serious potential! We've decided to keep the system at it's minimum until i do reliability tests and learn how to drive it properly :angel:

I've also designed and built a tubular front subframe and arms (total 9Kg:D) to reduce front weight and while i was at it, it seemed rude not to play with the suspension geometry!

I want to thank a few people for their input and help:

Russ and the guys at Wallace Performance who did the mapping and supplied parts/tea/banter etc. Top guys and never ones to shy from a challenge! Can't thank you enough:smthumbup:D.

My mate Steve Marr who is the main technical guru, and who i regularly bugged to ask lots of questions on a daily basis:smthumbup.

My mate Graeme Wight Jnr for his help with the front subframe and major suspension geometry changes, Exhaust and general setting up

Alan Young Engineering Ltd for the quality machined bespoke pulleys and parts, Spot-on parts and great prices

And everyone else who suffered because of my constant lust for knowledge during the build:smthumbup:D

As yet i've to do some miles and get her setup for the start of the 2010 Scottish Sprint & Hillclimb Championship, so for the moment i'm being realistic about expectations & screwing the nut until i check everything over and get used to driving it. Hoping to do some track testing soon though. I've had her out for a short drive and so far the whole package is working impressively. Instant delivery at anything above 2500rpm with absolutely awesome accelleration in every gear! This is on it's lowest boost setting too....

Over the next few months The guys at Wallace Performance & I are going to refine some of the setup and see what she's really capable of! We know we can find a lot more power & torque with some simple changes.

Meantime i'm happy with the initial results and looking forward to Doune Hillclimb in 2 weeks:D:D Should be fun!

Keep watching....;)


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Nice one Donald, good to see it up and running :smthumbup

Will watch your progress with interest, keep the updates coming :)
Well done Donald, great to see all your development and hard work paying off, keep it up! :smthumbup
I look forward to the results of your upgrades, I take it you've found some sponsorship then!!? ;) :smthumbup
The latest issue of Total Evolution Magazine is now in the shops. Part 4 of the feature covers the front subframe and final winter changes. Two more parts to go and the last part will reveal all about the twincharger system workings and how it has been achieved :eek:

Better get subscribed! :smthumbup

How many have been following this feature?
I've been following, and looking forward to the next installments! ;) :D
Donald, what spark plugs are you using?
We're using the same as always NGK BPR8ES but tried a few others from non resistor to different electrode style and it didn't make that much difference TBH.
I couldn't get on at all with BPR8ES plugs, had lots of missfires at higher boost levels, so I swapped to NGK B9EGV - 5827, and all issues solved, I find them really good plugs.
Bummer about the shocker, but great news breaking the record!

How was the low speed understeer, and general traction, any improvements?
Excellent stuff Donald, really pleased you're liking the new diff set-up, was a bit concerned after Harewood!

After a bit more seat time, getting to grips with the new found traction and balance, you should be ready to break some records. :smthumbup
Donald, I totally understand, people seem to think it's their 'right' for you to give them all the info they ask for!

Some don't even say please or thankyou, it's just plain ignorant. :shake:

I even had one member post that I was the most unhelpful member on the forum because I didn't pander to his every question via PM. :lol:
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It is possible to weld gussets onto the casing, or does the aluminium not take kindly to being welded?
Welding billet or forged alumium is fine, but welding a cast Mitsi casing, not so good. They have a lot of impurities in the casting which causes problems when welding. Welding also creates internal stresses in the aluminium which can cause more problems than the extra bracing gives gains.
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Excuse my lack of knowledge on this.....but does it really matter if they are 10 years old?

Im assuming (although hard miles) that the mileage on them isnt high?

Isnt mileage and heat cycles more important?
The age isn't relevant, but the amount of fatigue the rods have endured is massively relevant.

The higher the load that has been imparted on the rods, the higher the metal fatigue, and the lower the time to failure.
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R&R rods came highly recommended so i'll give them a try.
Who recommended the R&R rods?

Why not use a completely proven rod that has been around for years, like Carrillo with CARR bolts?
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It's a damn shame they let go now, considering they were going to be replaced later this year, but they've lastly very well indeed considering how long they've been in the engine, and how much work they've done with the evolution of your spec. With the amount of power and torque you're running over such a large powerband, any high spec rod is going to be pushed to its limits, so I'd definitely think about changing them on a 'regular' basis, after 'X' amount of miles/years.

Good luck with getting the engine back up and running :smthumbup

Thanks for all your input guys. I only have personal experience of the Crower rods and one failed at the level I ran them at. I am totally aware that these rods failed due to the age and stress they have been under for years and that when new they would be more than able to do the job. I spoke to crower when I replaced the rod bolts and they stated the rods would only.need replaced if i wanted to go over 1400hp. That is USA horsepower so I always reckoned they were ok up to 1000 uk ponies.

As Ross says, he has used the R&R rods for years, sold many sets and never had a failure. I also did my own research after we initially spoke and couldn't see a single posting anywhere about any failures in any engine to date so I called him back and placed the order.

We all live and learn. My application is different from most others because I have so much low end torque and that's pushing the boundaries a bit. Failures like this happen. I'm amazed the engine lasted as long as it did :lol:

With such torque, power and my constant hard launches over many years I have always been aware that nothing is guaranteed and with good engine reliability for so long I put my meagre budget into other areas of weakness that was letting me down frequently - diffs, shafts, transfer box and gearbox/clutch etc and the engine had to take a back seat. The last time I had the engine apart I had the rods crack tested and they were fine. I also replaced the bearing shells a couple of winters back and replaced the rod bolts for genuine Crower ones at that time, so I didn't expect a rod to make a bid for freedom. They were due to be retired this winter.... so near yet so far....

I also rarely rev above 7800rpm but it has been above that a few times on the dyno lately. I think the Rev limit is set at 8300 rpm just now and the extra 140 hp discovered won't have done the rods any favours in their senior years :blush:

I'll be back on track soon enough though :smthumbup
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Do you think I would recommend Carrillo because they're fitted to my own engine? What has that got to do with it and why the underhand personal attack? :confused:

I would recommend them because of their huge experience of designing and manufacturing conrods for the last 50 years, and their superb reputation due to the quality and robustness of their products. They are a completely known entity and as such a very good choice. For me, Carrillo have been around ever since I started riding/tuning bikes in the early 80's, with many people I know over the last 30 years using them with excellent results and no problems. Are you saying that R&R rods are more proven than Carrillo?

I hope the R&R rods work well for Donald, and good luck to him.

Actually it was me who recommended the R&R rods with 625+ bolts Clive.

We've used this brand for last 7 years in our own high power applications.
The first three being exclusively in my own cars including our drag car which was the first UK Evo to break into the 8's on the quarter producing over 1000bhp.

We believe them to be of the highest quality, based on the design, material specification post manufacture processing and quality control. If you want some more details give me a shout. However I don't suppose a car that lives in the garage and has never really achieved anything would need a very strong rod :p
We are involved with a fair bit of Evo motorsport with most of our customers choosing this rod & have yet to see a failure of any sort.
I guess with supplied around 80 sets to date.

I agree the Carrillo I would be another good option. In actual fact Mike who owns and runs R&R was a former employee of Carrillo. I haven't personally run Carrillo to the level that Donald is going to need, so I can't recommend them myself, however we have run several on R&R with large shots of nitrous oxide below 4000rpm (chemical supercharging). So low RPM loading on the rod will be comparable to the supercharger.
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Clive, The proof of the pudding is in the eating as they say. What better way to test a part other than fitting it into my car :lol:

I hope they are okay, I don't fancy having to build another engine from scratch again anytime soon :cry:
Absolutely, whatever parts you use in the next build will be under a lot of stress, and I hope they are up to the 'test' :eek:
Nice one Donald, you definitely need a foot pedal with TIG. It takes a bit of getting used to, but makes it far easier to control!

Which bead roller did you get? I've been meaning to buy one myself! :smthumbup
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Clive, the bead roller is Metz, found it on ebay. There's a few listings with buy it now of £140. This one was on auction and I was the only bidder :D. Good robust machine, just remember to anneal the tube first!

I find with the Tig foot pedal that it's difficult to control finely during the weld. If there was a way to set an upper limit on the welder and alter it's overall range it would be much better. As it is only tiny movements give substantial current changes. I'm sure it'll become second nature eventually though!
Ok, thanks for the info, I'll get one, looks good.

What welder do you have? It took me a while to dial into using my pedal, and being an amateur welder, probably longer than a pro due to infrequent use! My pedal has a pot on it which adjusts max amps when the pedal is fully down, it seems to be quite progressive up to that point.

I'd love to buy a Fronius at some point, but a bit extravagant due to the limited times that I use it. :D
Nice one Donald, it's all looking superb! :smthumbup
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Car looks awesome Donald, sounds like a shotgun going off every gear change, no wonder it did some damage!
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