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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
what's the pros and cons of the link over the standard ecu? Are there gains to be made by the link bhp wise that can't be made by the standard ecu??
When aiming for 450bhpish will the link stand a better chance of achieving better figures?
 

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Though I agree stock has decent knock control it also has its limitations, especially with internal noise, at least with the link you can define these areas
 

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It's actually 13, if you the windowing and threshold table is set right you shouldn't have issues
It's actually just under 12 KHZ.

Where did you get the 13 from?

You just made it up?
 

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So if you were forging for example then OE knock control could pick up noise?
Yes this is an issue - the stock ECU is calibrated against a standard engine. Change *anything* and the knock control may start picking up random noise as knock. Whether it be tappets, cams, a stiff lower engine mount, etc, etc, and definitely if you change the characteristics of the rotating/reciprocating masses - all the "different" noise can induce the stock ECU to retard the timing even if you don't have knock.

I am very, very pleased with the Link G4+ and is one of the best mods I've fitted, even though it doesn't release any more "Power" from my standard-ish engine. It runs it noticeably smoother and the MAF is removed as well and mapped on boost sensor without the need for complex/time consuming VE mapping on the standard ECU.

I'm pretty sure a competent mapper could map in the knock control if required, it needs proper windowing (crank angle sensor window for each cylinder) and background noise settings mapped in, and if mapped properly will detect knock and retard the ignition timing on a single cylinder as opposed to the standard ECU retarding on all 4 cylinders for any single cylinder knock detection. It has to said, though, that a decent mapper wouldn't be mapping a dangerous map that required knock control on the understanding that you always use decent fuel, etc. Twin maps is useful as well for a valet map, low octane fuel map, or just pops,n,bangs....

Yours Aye

Mark H
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
What other features are you using via the link?? Anti lag?? Launch control?
How is the boost changed from high to low, isnthere a controller of via the water spray

UOTE=Rampant;5777485]Yes this is an issue - the stock ECU is calibrated against a standard engine. Change *anything* and the knock control may start picking up random noise as knock. Whether it be tappets, cams, a stiff lower engine mount, etc, etc, and definitely if you change the characteristics of the rotating/reciprocating masses - all the "different" noise can induce the stock ECU to retard the timing even if you don't have knock.

I am very, very pleased with the Link G4+ and is one of the best mods I've fitted, even though it doesn't release any more "Power" from my standard-ish engine. It runs it noticeably smoother and the MAF is removed as well and mapped on boost sensor without the need for complex/time consuming VE mapping on the standard ECU.

I'm pretty sure a competent mapper could map in the knock control if required, it needs proper windowing (crank angle sensor window for each cylinder) and background noise settings mapped in, and if mapped properly will detect knock and retard the ignition timing on a single cylinder as opposed to the standard ECU retarding on all 4 cylinders for any single cylinder knock detection. It has to said, though, that a decent mapper wouldn't be mapping a dangerous map that required knock control on the understanding that you always use decent fuel, etc. Twin maps is useful as well for a valet map, low octane fuel map, or just pops,n,bangs....

Yours Aye

Mark H[/QUOTE]
 

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What other features are you using via the link?? Anti lag?? Launch control?
How is the boost changed from high to low, isnthere a controller of via the water spray
Extra features?

MAF removed - load mapped via boost.
Closed loop boost works perfectly fine for me.
I have true sequential ignition on my Coil-on-Plug setup.
And pops'n'bangs via a second map via the ICS Auto switch. Second map is basically the same boost and timing as the main map except for the low load for mortar and machine gun fire :mhihi:
My Mrs calls me a child. I agree. It's hilarious.

That is all I need. Perhaps Open Loop boost control would be a very slight enhancement and knock control could be mapped, but for my road car I don't deem it as a necessity since I always use Nitro+ or Momentum fuel.

Yours Aye

Mark H
 
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The G4 is an excellent ecu. I run an old school power fc d- jetro which I've converted to the pro version by changing the eprom. I've been running this for the last 11 years. In the future I will change to the G4. So going from an ecu that has no knock control whatsoever to one that has knock control per cylinder along with all the rest of the features like individual fueling, sequential firing order instead of the wasted spark one,offering a much newer software yet simple enough and a much faster cpu than the stock ecu and power fc offers, will be awesome for me as I do my own mapping.



An excellent ecu is not the one that offers the most extra features of the type of anti-lag, launch control, but the one that offers the most features in the best version of them for someone to fine tune a setup in the best way possible.









Marios
 
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How come you want to go open loop boost control?

Extra features?

MAF removed - load mapped via boost.
Closed loop boost works perfectly fine for me.
I have true sequential ignition on my Coil-on-Plug setup.
And pops'n'bangs via a second map via the ICS Auto switch. Second map is basically the same boost and timing as the main map except for the low load for mortar and machine gun fire :mhihi:
My Mrs calls me a child. I agree. It's hilarious.

That is all I need. Perhaps Open Loop boost control would be a very slight enhancement and knock control could be mapped, but for my road car I don't deem it as a necessity since I always use Nitro+ or Momentum fuel.

Yours Aye

Mark H
 

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How come you want to go open loop boost control?
Compensation for atmospheric conditions...
(If I wasn't selling the car I'd get it mapped in.)
 

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Talking about boost control I've had a mare of late with the link. I believe there is a problem with closed loop boost control and link are in about bringing out a patch?

All I know is my boost was all over the show and my mappers been pulling his hair out. He's now changed it and wrote a full boost table from scratch which is now at last working faultlessly. I'm not technically minded like him but he explained it as being active boost control before and the ecu was trying to hit a boost level so threw a load of duty on and my car came i that quick it was like ****, less duty so it ended up overboosting and being very hit and miss.
Said it's now passive so just looks for the duty on the table at whatever revs and sticks that in. Time consuming for sure.

Love the G4 though, My car came with a power fc and wouldn't run quick enough. Since changing to the link I've seen improvements in every area.
 

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The thing about the Link boost control is you can't just ask it for an open loop (active feedback loop) without setting up the closed loop properly first.

You need to map the boost on closed loop (simple duty cycle mapping) *accurately" for 3 different boost levels.

If you want a boost control of, say, 1.8bar there needs to be an accurate table for duty cycle requirements for 1.7; 1.8 & 1.9 bar.

The Open loop system for 1.8 bar then uses this table as an initial target duty, and then also uses the table as a bracketing system to calculate the correction values to achieve a feedback controlled 1.8 bar so that it doesn't overshoot or undershoot when adding extra random or uncalculated duty to ramp up, for instance, from 1.75 to 1.8...

Hope that makes sense. It is a good system, but just needs the understanding of how it works.
 

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The thing about the Link boost control is you can't just ask it for an open loop (active feedback loop) without setting up the closed loop properly first.

You need to map the boost on closed loop (simple duty cycle mapping) *accurately" for 3 different boost levels.

If you want a boost control of, say, 1.8bar there needs to be an accurate table for duty cycle requirements for 1.7; 1.8 & 1.9 bar.

The Open loop system for 1.8 bar then uses this table as an initial target duty, and then also uses the table as a bracketing system to calculate the correction values to achieve a feedback controlled 1.8 bar so that it doesn't overshoot or undershoot when adding extra random or uncalculated duty to ramp up, for instance, from 1.75 to 1.8...

Hope that makes sense. It is a good system, but just needs the understanding of how it works.
Yeah I know what you're saying.. Its so much better now as it is, I think I'll leave it on closed loop passive..

I have 100% faith in the tuner, sure he would of done what you're saying, he's done loads of link (amongst others) over many years and my car is the first to suffer like this.

I have 3 different switchable boost levels/maps on the car in case it's wet etc 1,1.5 and 2.2 so sure he set it up on 3 levels.
 

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How come you want to go open loop boost control?
I was thinking the same- I believe Mark means he has Open loop and wants Closed loop.

FWIW I'm really pleased with my Link, live mapping and logging are significant improvements over stock. The knock control, like everything else in the ECU is fully tunable and as with many things in life it will only be as good as the person setting it all up.

My opinion is that once internals are changed (forged, bored, stroked,etc) standalone/ aftermarket is needed to realise the engines potential. The standard ECU with a Tephra ROM is still very good but I believe is better suited to a stock engine with bolt-ons.

Hope that helps the OP with the choice :)
 

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I was thinking the same- I believe Mark means he has Open loop and wants Closed loop.

FWIW I'm really pleased with my Link, live mapping and logging are significant improvements over stock. The knock control, like everything else in the ECU is fully tunable and as with many things in life it will only be as good as the person setting it all up.

My opinion is that once internals are changed (forged, bored, stroked,etc) standalone/ aftermarket is needed to realise the engines potential. The standard ECU with a Tephra ROM is still very good but I believe is better suited to a stock engine with bolt-ons.

Hope that helps the OP with the choice :)
Yeah I think their may be a bit of confusion happening:smthumbup
You can set the link up in any format you want, open loop, open loop passive or closed loop and yes ive heard about the closed loop issue which is to be patched soon iirc, atmospheric compensations work in all setups of boost control:smthumbup
 
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