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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm going to install my Gizmo MS-IBC boost controller and i'd like some advice. I would like to do this myself and need to know where people have plummed and wired too ?

Cheers
 

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Hi mate! That was a good bargain you got there! :smthumbup

I fitted mine here...





The instructions that come with it are pretty good at telling you where everything should go.

I managed to get all the cables/pipe up through the bung behind the glove box!

Any questions just ask. :smthumbup
 

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The easiest grommet on the VIII is either the engine ECU loom one, or remove the wheel arch liner and there is one at the top.
Don't connect the pressure feed into any of the FPR connection, use the box feed.
 

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I'll finish my install this weekend but, I'll plumb the Gizzmo MAP sensor vac line into the BOV vac circuit.
I've taken power from the stereo ignition switched 12v feed and bolted the earth to the chassis behind the radio slot.
The unit is installed in the 2nd DIN slot (I cut out the plastic blanking plate), under my stereo head unit.

The rest of the plumbing is is as per the manual. You can only plumb the solenoid in one way round for it to work with an internally wastegated turbo.

I have used the main ECU gromment (behind the glove box) as this gets everything into the engine bay on a nice location. It's a bit of a fiddle but, not too bad. I suspect the hardest part to feed through will be the vac pipe for the MAP sensor. I put a 3.5mm drill bit in the end of this and pushed it through a small hole already in the grommet (made for my alarm cabling).

For the solenoid harness, remove the pins from the plug (thanks Graham :smthumbup ), tape them to a thin, stiff rod of some kind, and push them through the grommet. You can them remove them from the rod when they're in the engine bay and refit them into the large plug that will plug into the solenoid socket.
Don't forget to mark the plug with which colour cable goes to which side. You don't want to get these the wrong way round.

All in all, this is one of the simplest EBC's to install.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good stuff, a little more confident now, So i'll get the first bit out the way, i'll be using the gromet behind the glovebox as i've already poked a 4awg cable through there for the now redundant ice install


:smthumbup
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What a disaster that turned out to be :cry:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well,

Location of Unit : Sorted
Wiring though bulkhead : Sorted
Solenoid Mounting : Sorted
(Took out Airbox, mounted solenoid underneath where the old one was - Unplugged the old one - now loose cable)

Problem is now with Tubing.
The out of the IBC goes to the Actuator but this splits on a T pipe and goes to the J pipe as well.

So moved onto the MAP sensor : The piping is 3mm, now its supposed to be wired in on the vacum but the only ones i could find were 5mm ??

Just got confused frustrated and figered give up till tomorrow and put it back together.

Only problem with that though - I removed the battery for more space but on starting the Battery and Oil light are constantly on, with the ignition on they appear to be flickering.

:rotz:
 

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You need to leave the original boost control solenoid connected. Use a pair of 12" needle nose pliers to get to the connections on the actuator and turbo compressor housing.
The new boost control solenoid need two pipes rather than the one the current solenoid uses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok so leave the original Solenoid Connected but not plummed in ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hope you dont mind but i am going to do this in steps.

Leave the "T" piece in place that splits to the actuator and the "J" pipe and this then connects to the out of the new solenoid.

The in of the new solenoid, comes from the bottom of the intake pipe.
 

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That's not correct Ian, you need to remove the original pipework from the standard boost control solenoid to the actuator and turbo compressor housing. The small bleed line from the stock BCS to the intake pipe can be left in place.
The new solenoid is fitted and one new pipe connects direct to the actuator (com port), the other which is the pressure feed to the solenoid connects to the nipple on the compressor housing (other end of where the tee piece was).
 
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