[Guest]

I've got a slight problem with my brakes at the moment. I've got Goodrdidge hoses, uprated fluid and recently swapped to Pagid Blue (fast road) pads with Ralliart anti-squeal shims. My discs warped and have had 1 skim and seem to be alright at the moment. My problem is - most of the time I get good feel from the brake pedal, quite firm - stops very nicely. Occasionally - say every 4th or 5th time I go for the brakes the pedal is very vague and goes down a lot further than normal. Seems to stop OK, it's just disconcerting when you're approaching a corner and it doesn't do what you expect. This isn't a fade problem as it doesn't just happen during periods of sustained heavy braking - it could be going to work, approach roundabout - soft pedal. The brakes have been stripped downa couple of time and everything look's OK, the next step is to go back to the original anti-squeal shims from the Brembo pads, but anyone any other ideas?

Thanks,

Kevin.

 

[Guest]

Kevin,
Hi mate.
Sounds like you have a classic case of air in the system. Bleed the brakes again and all sould be well.

 

[Guest]

Cheers Colin,

I think this has been done, but I will get it checked out.

Thanks,

Kevin.

 

[Guest]

it has nothing to do with bleeding the brakes believe me

if you drive on track the pistons in youre caliper are pushing back if you go over bumps or take highspeed corners

if you buy an ap 6 pot set they have springs behind the pistons you don t have that problem anymore maybe you can buy springs for the brembo caliper too don t know

mostly if i come onto a corner wich needs heavy braking i left foot brake a little before the corner too push the pistons and pads to the disc again so i don t have the problem that the pedal is falling deeper (it scares the sh.. out of me sometimeshttp://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/happy1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >)

regards

andre

 

[Guest]

I also had this problem, for a different reason (this is with the AP setup as well as the Brembo). This was down to the brakes getting too hot, and the fluid boiling. Even Castrol SRF didn't fully solve the problem. Power Engineering fabricated special brake cooling ducts which did fix it. Still get some boil/air, but minimal. Pedal is rock hard after bleeding, and only slightly soft after a day of massive braking on the track. Top stuff. Am investigating a brake fluid recirculator - can't find anyone (tuner or driver) who has used one. Would like to save money on SRF - which is about £30 a litre!

 

[Guest]

I have also see the brake fluid recirculators and it should help with fluid boiling problems but I wondered if it was suitable on ABS equipped cars? Anyone know?

Evilution emailed me and said his problem was cured by a bleed.

 

[Guest]

It is weird - I haven't found anyone out there who has used them. They are an American thing. No tuner will confirm whether they week, but Demon Tweeks do sell 'em. The idea behind them seems valid, after all the fluid at the brakes will get hot, so keeping cooler fluid should keep the pressure in the brake lines the same, by allowing the fluid to recirculate. Most tuners prefer to properly cool brakes by using brake ducting, different wheels, different discs etc. My gut feel is that they should work. They are only around £100 or so - I think I will try it anyway, but it would be more sensible to try it on a standard VI, as my brakes are so good anyway. For me it would pay for itself in 5 or 6 track days (in money saved on Castrol SRF!)

 

[Guest]

Blade

I had this problem with intermittent pedal fade , even with SRF fluid , braided hoses etc even in march @ Dono when the ambient was below zero braking for the chicane after the Dunlop bridge was at times scary !

I cured this by changing both the front hub assemblies complete with bearing`s etc , which with hindsight appears to have cured some of my warping disc problems ?

 

[Guest]

Yeh, I changed for the 330mm AP 6pot setup, but the Carbon Metallic pads are SO good that they bring those problems right back. The cooling ducts have sorted it, but basically doing airfields with lots of slow corners, with open track all day long, braking the nuts of the car results in some fluid boiling - even SRF, with this setup and ventilation ducts! Have now removed the front spots and are having a second set of ducting made to use these VERY large holes to capture the air!

Still can't help thinking the recirculator is the way to go...

 

[Guest]

Blade

I agree with the better cooling , I`ve removed the inside disc covers and amp; the spot lights cutting large holes in the plastic wheel arches to aid better air flow to the disc`s last year , but I still warped disc`s on a regular basis .http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/sad1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >

The hub change has seemed to help the problem ,I was using the new PF full size pads [ 97 compound ]along with Kevin A / T27 @ Castle Combe last week and we both very impressed with the stopping power |PLS| we left the circuit with brakes intact [img]http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/happy1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >

 

[Guest]

daved6

Did you use standard replacement hubs/bearings or not? What led you to change these components? How much to do it?

Thanx in advance...

BTW, you really need to channel the air to the disc - holes aren't enough really, as the air needs to be applied behind the disc to the hub. Power Engineering have made some ducts for the lower air vents, and are doing some for where the fog lights are too. Nice job too... Have used temperature paint on the discs to see the difference that the vents are making - which is big. Discs were turning blue before then!

Expensive hobby this...