Lancer Register Forum banner
1 - 3 of 3 Posts

· Registered
4,967 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is a quick how-to guide on replacing the "girly" sounding OEM horns and replacing with something more beefy.

Keywords: horn ring piaa replace replacing replacement change changing fit fitting install installing louder loud faq how-to guide how to evo 7 8 9 vii viii ix

Parts required
- New horns
- 20cm of 10 amp wire
- 2x spade terminals
- 2x ring terminals
- 2x washers (optional)

Tools required
- Knife
- 10mm spanner
- Terminal crimper tool

Step 1 - Remove front bumper
**will add a link**

Step 2 - Remove old horns
- Make sure that the ignition is off and that no one is pressing the horn button. (You could disconnect the battery negative, or remove the horn fuse to be extra safe. This fues is in the engine bay fuse box to the right of the battery. However this isn't really needed as the Evo horns are negative ground and the +12V supply wire is only live when pressing the horn button. If in doubt, take the fuse out.)
- The first horn is on the near side. PIC1 Slide the supply terminal off and then use a spanner to undo the nut holding the horn on.
- The seccond horn is in the centre of the car between the radiator and the intercooler. PIC2 Remove the wire and nut as above.

Step 3 - Prepare the new horns
- I used Ring horns from Halfords, a twin pack of hi/lo tone was £19.99. PIC3
- The OEM horns use a switched live supply wire and then use the body of the horn to ground to earth (car body) to complete the circuit. The new horns have two terminals and the chassis is not grounded.
- Therefore you need to make an earth wire: Cut about 10cm of the 10Amp wire, then strip the insulation from about 15mm at each end. Twist the strands together and then fold over so you have a U shape, squash this together. You then have a nice tag at each end to crimp onto.-
- Check your new spade terminal is the right size for the spade on the back of the horn.
- Check the OEM live space terminal is also the right size for the spade on the back of the horn.
- Finally check that your new ring terminal is big enough for the bolt which holds the horn to the bracket.
- Then you can crimp the spade on one end and the ring on the other PIC4
- Fit the spade terminal to the horn. (There was no + and no - terminal on my horn, they are interchangable.)
- Repeat for the other horn

Step 4 - Install the horns
- First use some sandpaper or similar to clean up the hole on the end of the horn bracket, this is to ensure a good earth connection.
- Pass the thread on the top of the horn through the bracket (may need a washer to space it) and then put the ring terminal of your earth wire on the other side and top it off with the nut.
- Rotate the horn so that the 'trumpet' faces downwards (to help reduce moisture build up in the trumpet) and then nip the bolt up.
- Finally connect the live spade PIC5
- Test the horns operation (remember to refit the fuse if you took this out)
- Repeat for the other horn. PIC6 (Note that when testing the operation of the seccond horn you may wish to disconnect the supply wire from the first horn, or just listen out for a lounder/two-tone sound to check they are both working, not just the first one.)
- All done PIC7 (on post #2)

Step 5 - Reinstall the bumper
**will add a link**

Wires are designed to carry enough current to power the device. Fuses are designed to burn out before the wire melts if too much current is drawn by the device.
The OEM Mitsi horns are fused at 10Amps, which means they draw less than 10Amps and the wires that supply the horns can carry more than 10Amps.
The new Ring horns I used said they needed a direct battery connection fused at 10Amps, implying that they would draw no more than 10Amps. On this basis the OEM wiring would be fine, since the 10Amp OEM fuse implies the circuit can safely deliver up to 10Amps. Therefore I was safe to use the OEM wiring, rather than using the direct battery connection and relay supplied with the Ring kit. When you buy your horn kit, check to see what fuse it requires. If it requires 10Amps or less then you should be ok to use the Mitsi wiring like I did. If it requires a fuse higher than 10Amps then you'll have to run seperate wiring for this and use the OEM horn power wire to switch a relay which will then pass electricity directly from the battery (via the relay) to the horn. If you need to do this and want a hand then please PM me and I'll write instructions.

PS - If you're thinking of installing a tow loop or cold air feed, then these are good things to do while the bumper is off:
Tow loop fitting guide
Cold air feed fitting guide

That's it. Hope this was useful. Cheers.



1 - 3 of 3 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.