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Background
I recently picked up a 'good value' carbon fibre spark plug cover. It was really cheap because it had some defects, namely a big crack and also some more minor scratches and scuffs in the lacquer. It needed a refurb!
So I had a bash and I think it turned out all right. So this isn't neccessarily a definitive technique, but it worked for me so I figured I'd share it.
Parts required:
- Sanding block
- 800 to 2000 grade wet and dry paper
- Rubbing compound
- Scratch X
- Rattle can of clear lacquer
- Polish
- Wax
- Couple of cloths
- Water supply
Step 1 - Sanding back
First step is pretty straight forward, just wrap the wet and dry around the sanding block and get to work. Be careful not to apply too much pressure, and don't go too far else you'll damage the weave. You want to use the finest grade you can get away with and remove the minimum of lacquer. Make sure you keep the whole thing lubricated. You'll be able to do most things with the block, but you will also probably need to cut the sheet of paper up and do some by hand, as you can more easily manipulate the paper into the right profile with your fingertips.
Because the piece will be wet it will always look glossy. You'll need to dry periodically in order to see what's been done and what hasn't. If you start with a grit number lower than 1200 or 2000 you should work up to these and use them for a final pass.
When you're done, give it a proper rinse and dry thoroughly before lacquering. (I think I even washed it with soap and then rinsed and dried!)
Step 2 - Lacquer
Check the instructions on the can, but basically it's obvious stuff like keep the can at room temperature and spray somewhere windless and dustless if you can.
I've struggled in the past with application of the lacquer, but basically, you need to try to put each coat on in one fluid motion, rather than spraying from a great height and doing several passes.
I had always thought that spraying from 'on high' with super light coats was going to work, but it doesn't. What happens is the droplets dry out on their way to the surface, so you get an 'orange peel' finish. So instead move the can closer and move sideways SLOWER. However, the massive caveat on this is to not go so slow you get a run! It's definitely a balancing act in being slow enough to allow the lacquer to 'flow' on the surface but not so slow it builds up and runs. (PS - don't try to 'blow away' runs using the gas from the can as this will add more lacquer and make it worse, not better!)
Allow about 10-15min between coats and put on about 3.
After the final coat let it dry for 24h before inspecting. If you're good, then you're done. If you're like me then you'll need to do some more finishing!
Step 3 - Finishing
If you get some orange peel (like I did - still learning) then you can flatten this out using the rubbing compound or 2000 grit. Rubbing compound goes on with a wet cloth and work it over the piece. Keep it wet, then wash and dry off with a clean cloth. Using the paper is more aggressive, but may be required depending on how much work is needed. You definitely need to go gently!
This process may dull the surface, but follow this up with the scratch X and it will become shiny again.
Step 4 - Waxing and Polishing
Making sure the piece is clean and dry from the last step you can apply your favourite polish, followed by a couple of coats of your favourite wax.
Job done!
Ask always, questions/comments/improvements welcome.
Photos now added, continues after 3 posts.
Background
I recently picked up a 'good value' carbon fibre spark plug cover. It was really cheap because it had some defects, namely a big crack and also some more minor scratches and scuffs in the lacquer. It needed a refurb!
So I had a bash and I think it turned out all right. So this isn't neccessarily a definitive technique, but it worked for me so I figured I'd share it.
Parts required:
- Sanding block
- 800 to 2000 grade wet and dry paper
- Rubbing compound
- Scratch X
- Rattle can of clear lacquer
- Polish
- Wax
- Couple of cloths
- Water supply
Step 1 - Sanding back
First step is pretty straight forward, just wrap the wet and dry around the sanding block and get to work. Be careful not to apply too much pressure, and don't go too far else you'll damage the weave. You want to use the finest grade you can get away with and remove the minimum of lacquer. Make sure you keep the whole thing lubricated. You'll be able to do most things with the block, but you will also probably need to cut the sheet of paper up and do some by hand, as you can more easily manipulate the paper into the right profile with your fingertips.
Because the piece will be wet it will always look glossy. You'll need to dry periodically in order to see what's been done and what hasn't. If you start with a grit number lower than 1200 or 2000 you should work up to these and use them for a final pass.
When you're done, give it a proper rinse and dry thoroughly before lacquering. (I think I even washed it with soap and then rinsed and dried!)
Step 2 - Lacquer
Check the instructions on the can, but basically it's obvious stuff like keep the can at room temperature and spray somewhere windless and dustless if you can.
I've struggled in the past with application of the lacquer, but basically, you need to try to put each coat on in one fluid motion, rather than spraying from a great height and doing several passes.
I had always thought that spraying from 'on high' with super light coats was going to work, but it doesn't. What happens is the droplets dry out on their way to the surface, so you get an 'orange peel' finish. So instead move the can closer and move sideways SLOWER. However, the massive caveat on this is to not go so slow you get a run! It's definitely a balancing act in being slow enough to allow the lacquer to 'flow' on the surface but not so slow it builds up and runs. (PS - don't try to 'blow away' runs using the gas from the can as this will add more lacquer and make it worse, not better!)
Allow about 10-15min between coats and put on about 3.
After the final coat let it dry for 24h before inspecting. If you're good, then you're done. If you're like me then you'll need to do some more finishing!
Step 3 - Finishing
If you get some orange peel (like I did - still learning) then you can flatten this out using the rubbing compound or 2000 grit. Rubbing compound goes on with a wet cloth and work it over the piece. Keep it wet, then wash and dry off with a clean cloth. Using the paper is more aggressive, but may be required depending on how much work is needed. You definitely need to go gently!
This process may dull the surface, but follow this up with the scratch X and it will become shiny again.
Step 4 - Waxing and Polishing
Making sure the piece is clean and dry from the last step you can apply your favourite polish, followed by a couple of coats of your favourite wax.
Job done!
Ask always, questions/comments/improvements welcome.
Photos now added, continues after 3 posts.
