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· Registered
4,967 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is a quick how-to guide on removing the intercooler water spray bottle and replacing it with a cold air feed.

Keywords: Intercooler ics i/c spray water bottle remove removal take out junk inter-cooler inter cooler reseviour cold cool air feed pipe tube faq how-to guide how to evo 7 8 9 vii viii ix

First note that I undertook this task and used the parts below. I didn't take any photos while I was "in progress" but I have borrowed some photos from a partial guide here. Hence the photos of the silver pipe in the black car are not mine and my method differs slightly. (I used rigid ends on my pipes and cable tied them in place.) UPDATE: I have now been out and taken some photos of my install finished - these are the ones using the white pipe on the silver car.

Parts required:
2x Manrose Round Reducer 125mm from Screfix Direct. [email protected]£1.07

1x Manrose PVC White 1m x 100mm Ducting Hose from Screfix Direct. [email protected]£1.26

1x Marley 2 x Aluminium Circular Hose Clips M419C Aluminium (D) 100mm from B&Q. 1 twin [email protected]£3.78

1x Cable Tie Pack from Maplin. 1 [email protected]£2.99

Obviously you can get ducting, jubilee clips and cable ties from just about anywhere but I think the Manrose reducer pipes from screwfix were particularly good.

Apologies for lack of 'in progress' picutres, hopefully the words will be enough help.
Step 1 - Remove arch liner
- Crack tension off wheel bolts
- Jack car carefully.
- Spin wheel nuts off, remove wheel.
- Use axle stand to support the car (I used the chassis rail)
- There are two plastic 'screws' at the front of the arch liner, plus a 10mm hex head bolt, plus a few clips that need levering with a flat screwdriver. Be careful with the plastic screws, it's easy to mash the screwhead if you use the wrong size screwdriver.

Here you can see some of the clips etc you need to take out the arch liner.

Step 2 - Remove the MAF and induction kit (gives you more space to work)
(I'm going to assume you have an induction kit fitted already, else this mod is a bit pointless)
- Unclip the MAF sensor wire
- Undo the jubilee clip holding the MAF to the intake pipe.
- Undo any other retaining bolts holding your filter
- Remove MAF and induction kit as one.

Step 3 - Free the spray bottle
- At the top behind the headlight there are two hoses. One clear one which is the over flow and the other black one which is the water feed. The black one should have a blue non return valve push fitted in-line. Pull the hose off the valve and then seal the hose which is on the radiator side. I used electrical tape.
- Behind the arch liner you will see the spray bottle and a (denso I think) pump attached. There is a white electrical connection clipped onto the pump. Squeeze the clip and then gently lever the connector up and off. (Note the WHOLE of the white connector comes off.) Note - after removing the bottle i pulled this wire and clip back up to near the fuse box and wrapped the connector in electrical tape and then cable tied the spare cable and clip out of the way.

Step 4 - Unbolting the spray bottle
- There are 4 bolts holding the bottle:
1 - At the top just near the filler neck there is a bolt kind of recessed into the side of the bottle.
2&3 - Under the arch liner again there are two which are visible on the right side of the bottle.
4 - The final one is on the left side and kind of hard to reach. You'll need an extension bar on your socket set to reach it. I found it was easiest to locat after undoing the other three because then the bottle pivots around the final bolt, making it easier to find.

Step 5 - Remove the spray bottle.
- Once the bolts are all out it can be lowered out via the wheel arch.

Step 6 - Remove the plastic 'mask' from the bumper hole.
There is a hole in the bumper below/beside the number plate. It is covered from the inside by mesh and then a plastic mask. These are held on by 4 screws. It seemed like a good idea to remove the plastic mask to increase the area through which air can flow. (Once fitted the air feed will only cover the portion of the bumper hole which was covered by the mask, so I do not feel that air flow to the gearbox has been compromised.
- Remove the 4 screws holding the mesh and mask to the bumper. 2 are easy, 2 are HARD. This was the trickiest part of the whole excersise because your have to reach quite a long way into the bumper from the wheelarch. I ended up with my head in the space where the bottle used to be and my arm stretched out trying to undo the last 2 screws.
- The mask can then be removed.
- Finally re-fit the mesh with the 4 screws.
- While I was down here I also re-positioned the horn as it would have been in the way of the ducting. You can undo the bolt and rotate the bracket, or simply bend it up and out of the way.

Here you can see the mesh re-attached after removing the mask:

Step 7 - Assemble the air feed.
- Slide the 2 jubilee clips over the hose.
- Put one end of the hose onto the small side of the 'reducer' funnel thing and then tighten the jubilee clip down to hold it in place. Repeat at the other end.
- Choose the end which will go down by the bumper and drill 4 holes in the large rim of the funnel. Make sure the holes are large enough for your jubilee clips to pass through.
I left the air filter side untouched for the time being.

Step 8 - Fit the air feed
- Carefully pass the bumper side cone down through the hole where the spray bottle was. Make sure that the plastic duct doesn't tear.
- Feed plenty of slack hose down too.
- Move the funnel onto the back of the mesh and then cable tie it on using the 4 holes drilled earlier.
- I then connected two long cable ties together and passed them around the duct and around the horn bracket and tightened them just enough to hold the ducting in place. (Basically I was concerned that at high speed the air being rammed into the duct would make it deform and flap about, so this is just to hold the bottom 4 inches of ducting a bit more securely.)
- At the top the upper funnel should be able to sit snugly in the gap where the spray bottle was.
- I then lifted the top funnel up a bit so I could drill one hole in it on the side where the 'Bolt #1' for the water bottle was, as this bracket is quite neat for cable tie-ing the upper funnel to.

Here you can see a cable tie holding the pipe to stop it deflecting with the wind:

Here you see the pipe position from the front. It does not appear to block airflow to the gearbox:

Here you see the mask which was removed:

Here you see the pipe position at the top. I left the bottle bracket in and use a cable tie to attach it here:

Step 9 - Re-fit everything.
- Refit the MAF and induction kit.
- Put the arch liner back on and re-clip it.
- Put the wheel back on and do the nuts up (not full torque)
- Jack the car up enough to get the axle stand out then lower the jack until the wheel just touches the floor (but doesn't bear the car's weight)
- Torque up the nuts. (I use 100Nm per the handbook)
- Drop the car to the ground fully and remove the jack.


Again, sorry for the lack of my own photos. I might see if I can take some of the finished install and then edit this thread to show the top and bottom cable tied in place.

Below is a figure from the workshop manual which shows the location of the bolts on the bottle.

That's it. Hope this was useful. Cheers.


List of my guides:
1 - Fitting Sidelights
2 - Rear Seats Removal
3 - Parcel Shelf Removal
4 - Fitting Harnesses (Not published yet)
5 - Bolt-in Parcel Shelf Camera
6 - Intercooler water spray bottle removal and replacement with cold air feed


· Keep er lit!
4,253 Posts
good right up but the silver hose looks naff in the bumper and the engine bay imo. is a hose really needed as the air comes in through the bumper and goes up to the filter anyway, a hose also blocks the air flow past the brakes a bit aswell. just imo offcourse could be wrong.

· Registered
14,964 Posts
Another excellent "how to" Ben. :smthumbup

Any chance of posting a pick of the air guide mask, as I, like I guess a lot of other people will be, am a bit concerend about doing this mod with the rumours of gearbox failures from overheating/poor ventilation.

Obviously if your pipe only takes air from where it was blanked off then this won't be a problem and what's more, taking off the guide may be beneficial for those with the stock airbox to allow more ventilation to the gearbox. :)

Does make you wonder why Mitsi blanked it off in the first place though? Perhaps it's a hangover from the VII and the change in bumper design to the VIII hasn't gone as far as removing the mask that previously sat behind the bumper? :confused:

· Registered
4,967 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the comments.

Regards the silver pipe: Can I point out again that those are not my photos. I'll edit the first post and put some up of MY install which uses the white ring terminators shown at the top and looks a bit neater.

Regards the gearbox/mask: Yep, I'll take some photos tonight of that piece of plastic which was removed so you can see that I've only used the bit that was already blanked off.


· Registered
5,530 Posts
Great job but do take note of your g'box system was similar to this and i had noticed last year on a couple of Trackdays that after around 3 or 4 laps the synchro's would be crunchie.
After talking this thru with a few brains i tried using the upper section of the standard airbox to feed my HKS Mushroom and removed the port from the bumper - since then, no cruchie g'box on track :D

· Registered
4,967 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
great mod. i'd have used black duct tho :handsup: :D
i would have perhaps modded the black snorkel to still give the air guidance to the gearbox
and then some sort of hole in it for the air box feed
Yeah, I would have preferred to use a colour other than white - but the bits I bought are designed for extracting air from tumble driers etc... so they came as white and I needed to do it asap as should be getting the car mapped again soon. Hence no time to paint them.
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