Lancer Register Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, here's my guide to removing and refitting the sump/ oil pan after having mine off to [hopefully] rectify an un-identified oil leak.

There were a few lessons learnt, such as removing the lower chassis brace(s) to completely remove the downpipe for better access.

Parts you will need- grey Loctite 5699 is the equivalent to the Genuine Mitsubishi stuff, and costs about £6 a tube from Halfords. You should only need about 1/4 of a tube.
Genuine gaskets for oil return; Sump end you will need 1x MR258477, 2x MR497720 and the bolts are 2x MN156739.
For the oil return tube to the turbo it is 1x 1226A002. Total cost for these from Mitsubishi were £9 inc VAT.

So here goes......

Run the car up to temperature to get the oil warm so that it will drain faster, this is optional but it's what I always do.

Get your tools out while the exhaust cools down!

First off disconnect the battery negative (10mm spanner).

Jack the car and support with axle stands.

Drain the engine oil. Refit the sump drain nut.

Ensure the exhaust has cooled enough to be able to touch it and unbolt at the turbo elbow and cat (14mm bolts at turbo and 17mm at the Cat). If possible remove the lower chassis brace bars so that the downpipe can be completely removed.

Disconnect the oil return pipe from the Turbo. It is easier to do this where it meets the sump, but as I had already changed this gasket at this end I did it at the turbo and left it attached to the sump.

As I had an oil leak I cleaned the sump and bolts with brake cleaner before removing it.

Disconnect the starter motor wiring, 1x 12mm nut for the main power cable and one push on crimp for the solenoid. To remove the starter motor there are 2x 14mm bolts holding it to the gearbox. One is on the sump side, the other is from the gearbox side.

Remove the flywheel lower cover by undoing the 2x 14mm bolts at the bottom of the gearbox and the 2x 10mm bolts on the block.

Remove the 19x 10mm bolts that hold the sump to the block. The 2 shorter bolts go into the oil pump (cambelt end). One goes into middle of the sump and the other goes into the hole next to it, towards the radiator.

It's worth having some cardboard under the car before doing this as residual oil will drip from the crank and block once the Sump comes free.

Removing the sump- there are a few methods, I tried using a rubber mallet (there arent any dowels so it can be moved sideways) but found that I couldnt shift it. Resorted to an 18" pry bar and carefully prised it away from the block. Once it goes a little bit, the rest will also give up its grip!

The sump nut is not at the very bottom of the sump pan so there is about 200ml of oil left in there, along with any rubbish/ debris (for example some ball bearings from the last turbo...... :wallbang:). I rinsed this out with more brake cleaner and some rags. Be careful if using kitchen roll/ paper towels as the edges of the baffles are VERY sharp and you could end up with tissue remaining in the sump, as well as bits of your fingers!

Next job is to removed the old sealant. This can be done with a stanley knife blade, but a safety blade is easier, also the handle end of the safety blade is ideal for scraping out the grooves in the sump. Dont forget to remove the residual gasket from the oil return pipe joint(s). Now is a good time to check that you haven't deformed the edges of the sump when removing it, if so a few taps with a mallet will do the job.

After doing this I used some scotchbrite with some brake cleaner to remove the very last bits of the old sealant and provide a good key for the new stuff. You will likely have some of the old sealant now in the sump, so give it another clean out.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Part 2

Now the sump is clean, the mating faces of the block need doing.

I was lucky that there wasn't too much sealant remaining on the block as it is a bit more fiddly to get access with the safety blade. Again, the baffle plate edge is VERY sharp so watch your fingers!

Next, get some more brake cleaner on a rag and remove the residual oil and sealant. As a side note, I noticed that the gasket between the oil pump and block was slightly proud (indicated by marks in the sealant on the sump) so used the safety blade to make this level.

Apply sealant to the sump itself. The Mitsubishi workshop manual states that the sealant should be approx 4mm wide (and IMO shouldn't need to be more than 2mm high) and be applied in the middle of the grooves on the sump pan, at the bolt holes it should be towards the inside of the sump. I prefer to circle the bolt holes, as a conventional gasket would do.

Allow it about 5 minutes for the sealant to semi harden, it's a good time to get your bolts and 10mm socket ready to refit.

If you have removed the downpipe, this bit is much easier. The only place I found that the sump could foul was by the oil filter as there is a small loom there. I tend to put a bolt through one of the holes as you don't want to smear the sealant when refitting and have another ready to go. In hindsight I would have used 2x M5x25mm bolts to support the sump in place, then push it up and secure with the correct bolts. This would almost guarantee that the sealant won't smear and remain a uniform thickness.

Do not fully tighten/ torque the bolts at this stage, give the sealant about 5 minutes after all bolts are in place and only hand tight. Remember there are 2 shorter bolts, positions as stated in the 1st post.

Torque the 19x 10mm bolts to 9Nm.

Some sealant will appear, but hopefully not too much!

Refit the oil return pipe with the new gasket and washers, torque to 14Nm.

Refit the lower clutch cover, with the 14mm bolts tightented to 26Nm and the 10mm bolts to 9Nm.

Refit the starter motor, both 14mm bolts to 30Nm.

Refit the starter motor wiring; 1x crimp to the solenoid and the 1x 12mm Nut to the power terminal to 13Nm.

Refit the downpipe, 14mm bolts to turbo elbow 50Nm and 17mm bolts to the Cat 49Nm.

Replace the sump nut washer and tighten to 39Nm.

Leave the sealant to go off for at least 3 hours before refilling with oil and starting the engine.

Reconnect the battery negative terminal.

Remove the axle stands and lower the car, et voila! :smthumbup

Hope this helps someone, any suggestions or improvements to this are welcome! And if a Mod can re-shuffle the pics into the appropriate places, I'd appreciate it as I don't know how!

All torque settings were obtained from the Mitsubishi workshop manual.

Ads
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nice work.
Did it fix the leak?
So far, so good! Had a good look at the sump pan and oil return pipe for cracks, both looked to be OK.

I thought it was worth writing up as there seems to be a lot of ambiguity over what sealant to use and pictures sometimes help! Could also be useful if someone wants to do their rod bolts?

Ads
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
548 Posts
How did this go? Did it leak since? Sorry to bring up a old thread but just wanted to know before doing all this to mine next weekend :D
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm happy to report that there have been no leaks since and the above helps you out :)
I think Loctite have changed their part numbers, sure there was recently a thread about it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
548 Posts
Ok that's brilliant news, will be definitely following this guide next weekend if weather is good :), ok, I just checked up the loctite you used and halfords still sell it, is that one not correct now then?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
548 Posts
Thanks buddy, can't wait to fix this little oil leak :D

Know this is a long shot but would you happen to know the part numbers for new bango's for the oil cooler pipes near the oil filter end?

Going to replace them while I'm at it as well :D
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks buddy, can't wait to fix this little oil leak :D

Know this is a long shot but would you happen to know the part numbers for new bango's for the oil cooler pipes near the oil filter end?

Going to replace them while I'm at it as well :D
Good luck with it, hopefully it sorts the leak. Just be careful with the baffles on the engine and in the sump- they're like razors.

I don't have the part number I'm afraid, but this might be of interest.... http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=506253
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top