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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
If u don't know u don't know , don't be shyhttp://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/wink1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >

First make sure u have a replacemnt oil filter and sump plug washer , and of course new oil , Mitsubishi advise 10w30 synthetic.

Make sure u have the means to access the underside of the engine , most DIY ramps will not work due to the low spoiler , so unless u can use a garage lift , drive the front wheels onto blocks of wood or similar about 3 (76mm) high to raise the front of the car to allow a drain pan beneath the engine.

Drive the car so the engine reaches full working temperature , do the ramp and drain pan thing , then remove the sump drain plug located on the bottom left back corner of the sump (looking at front of car) to drain oil , allow around 15-20 mins to totally drain.
While waiting remove oil filter (just to the rear of the sump) by unscrewing anticlock , oil will drain from here too.
Apply a smear of oil to the new filter rubber seal and after cleaning the sealing face on the engine filter fitting screw the new filter on until contact and then another 3/4
turn.
Replace sump plug with new washer , tighten to contact and then give it a quick pull on the wrench.
Put 4 ltrs of new oil in the engine and start up , the oil pressure light will go out almost immediatly , dont rev the engine until it has.
Let the engine run for about 5 mins , stop it , check underneath for any leaks , if non , roll the car off the blocks or whatever and check the oil level , top up as required.

Thats it [img]http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/wink1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Evoboy. One question though, What is a sump and sump plug? Will any oil filter do ? Sorry but it sounds a
little confusing as Ive never do it before
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i dont want to seem mean,but if you need to ask 'what is a sump/plug'and 'will any oil filter do'i think your oil change may best be done by a good friend that has a better understanding of mechanics,or even a frendly local evo owner who will spare you an hour to show you how to do it in future and other basic cheaks/maintainace,
failing these sugestions take it to a garage.....
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Evoboy, you said on the previous thread that you only put 4ltr of oil into the car. I read in my car manuals that the car requires 5 ltrs (5.3 including oil filter). which is it? i don't want to overfill my car.... which sure will be bad!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You don't need a ramp.....sorry you probably do for the filter change. I just changed the oil not the filter for an intermediate (between service) oil change athough I will probably do both in future.
You only need roughly 4 litres of oil for an oil change as you won't get all of the oil out by draining it. The oil cooler and other pipes usually hold some oil back. You will only need 5.3 litres on a completely new engine.
Just whack in 3.5 litres and then start checking the dipstick for the correct level, remember it takes a while for the oil to drain down and appear on the dipstick. It is just as important that you don't overfill it than to under fill it. Overfilling increases the oil pressure and can lead to oil being forced past gaskets or piston rings etc. resulting in permanent oil leaks. It also can mean the crank sits in a pool of oil and churns air into it causing the lash adjuster (tappet) problem mentioned on here before. The sump drain plug washer only goes on one way round or it will leak. Make sure the ridge is against the sump.

Evocrazy, I know we all started of somewhere but if you don't know the simple things then I suggest you get someone who knows what they are doing to change your oil and watch them do it and ask them questions. That will be the easiest way of learning how to do it yourself rather than trying to explain it on here an you end up with a knackered engine.

Simple service tip No.1
Fill up your washer bottle before taking you car in for a service. I hate being charged upto £5 for a bit of water and washer fluid when I can get some water out the tap for diddley!
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I agree with HH6 regards the 'additives' the dealers plug into your car eg. oil additives, washer additive, injector cleaners, etc. I once argued with the dealer after a service, and told them to 'take it all out because I'm not paying!' Naturally they didn't charge me.
When you take your car for a service, just leave instructions not put in any additives, or charge me ten bucks for a new set of wiper blades (!)
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Evocrazy,
U will have to excuse me , I didn't realise your mechanical knowledge was so limited , I wud advise that u have a garage change the oil while u watch , that way u can learn how to DIY.
Evov,
Your right about the oil quantity , the method I described is just a convenient way to do the job without having to measure a precise quantity of oil , 4 ltrs is virtually the correct amount and ok to start the engine to circulate the fresh oil and fill the filter , then after u stop the engine and wait for the oil level to settle u can use the dipstick to determine how much more oil is require to bring the oil level to the max mark.
Good grief , I always thought of changing oil as a simple , basic job , It never occured to me that some people wud not know how to do it thats why I didn't painfully describe every incremental detail
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Evov,
Every time.
Basically this is good workshop practice , ie: attention to detail.
The little things are frequently responsible for major disasters , if the sump drain plug washer splits (which it can , as every time it is tightened it work hardens so becomes brittle) the drain plug can become loose , if it falls out......need I say more http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/wink1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >
Also , how much is this part dude? not worth the risk.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The sump plug washer is a compression washer and once compressed it deforms therefore re-using is not ideal. Having said that I re-used it the last time I changed the oil only because I knew I was getting it serviced 3000 miles later. If you do reuse it make sure the mating surfaces are spotless (plug and sump) as grit can obvious cause leaks. The washer only costs about £1 to £1.50 I believe.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Shud have mentioned that u don't have to use the genuine Mitsu washer , I use an alternative type and cud supply about 10 for that price
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have a load of copper ones for loads of different makes its just that I haven't needed one yet.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Help!!!

I think I know why my car leaks a little bit of oil now! As far as I know, no one replaces the oil sump washer thingy whatever here whenever I have my car serviced!!!!

Can anyone tell me if the this one is similar to that of the older 4G63 (nee Evo1-3 and Eclipse) or what it looks like? Maybe you guys could post a picture here for me? Please?! http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/sad1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >

HH6, Evoboy, again I count on your knowledge and wisdom with everything Evo!!!!!!!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
HH6 and Evoboy,

Isn't there anyting you guys cannot do for someone as uninformed as me?! http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/happy1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >[img]http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/biggrin1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle > [img]http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/tongue1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle > [img]http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/tonguewink1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >

Many thanks guys! I guess I owe you mates a lot now!!!
 
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