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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
been trying to get me old suspension off and me new ones on, so thought todays the day:smthumbup anyway not the most technically minded but gona give it a crack.

got stuck at the first hurdle:smthumbdo there may only be x3 top mount nuts to undo and the big nuts attaching the damper to the brake hub but i just cat get the big damper nuts of with my poxy socket set that i have, very naerlt smashed my car up in anger this afternoon:wallbang:so thought i would ask for help:crackup:

what i was thinking for tommorow = a scafold type bar to put over the socket???

any advice would be appreciated:confused:
 

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Phil
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You probably need a longer bar to move these. But whatever you use, do take care not to round the edges of the nuts or bolt heads.
 

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dont mean to sound rude but make sure you are undoing the nut side and not the bolt side. the bolt side wint turn as is lock(so to speak) by flat sides on the suspension. a long double ended ring spanner should do the job. anything around 30-40cm and a bit of muscle power :smthumbup
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
cheers mate! do you think it would be worthwhile spraying wd40 or something like that? blody nightmare!!

went to local carshop to get "some help" and basical spent 30 mins looking to discover that three shope in the area were no longer trading!!!! what a world we live in:smthumbdo
 

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You'll need the appropriate sized drive for the sockets too. For suspension bolts, 1/2" drive should be a minimum or, you'll just shear the drive off. Decent sockets are needed to or they'll just shatter with the load on them.

If you have the right tool for the job, the job will be much easier and quicker to do.
Since owning my VII, my tool catelogue has grown and will only get bigger with time... :smthumbup

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
so i take it the correct nut to take off is the one with the bolt protruding from it??? so would you recomend a spanner rather than a socket? seriously though this is far more fun than jusy paying somebody to do it:naughty:
 

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You'll need the appropriate sized drive for the sockets too. For suspension bolts, 1/2" drive should be a minimum or, you'll just shear the drive off. Decent sockets are needed to or they'll just shatter with the load on them.

If you have the right tool for the job, the job will be much easier and quicker to do.
Since owning my VII, my tool catelogue has grown and will only get bigger with time... :smthumbup

Paul
be very careful you end up with tool addictions! reading machine mart, snap on and sealy catalogs instead of porn mags :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thread hijakers:crackup::crackup:

does anybody remember of hand what size the nuts are, so that i can go and get some decent tools from the shop? or from one of the tools mags;)
 

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First, do yourself a favour and download the workshop manual for your car. This will show you exactly what you need to do.

Secondly, spanners are really only good for undoing very small nuts/ bolts, unless it's a ring spanner. These used with a hammer to tap/ whack the nut/ bolt loose work well on not very tight fastenings.
Fastenings like suspension bolts/ nuts are done up very tight and will normally require a long 1/2" bar and socket to undo or an impact gun.
You might be well off buying a cheap electrical one of these (see this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LASER-TOOLS-3...14&_trkparms=72:1683|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318 ). These work very well for occasional use and will undo very, very tight fastenings with practically no effort and danger of destroying the nut/ bolt head.

Paul
so i take it the correct nut to take off is the one with the bolt protruding from it??? so would you recomend a spanner rather than a socket? seriously though this is far more fun than jusy paying somebody to do it:naughty:
 

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I managed to get mine off with a good spray of WD40, left it to soak in for 10minutes, then went for it with a pair of 12" long wrenches... pull one, push the other. Make sure the sockets are a good fit. I'm tempted to say it was a 19mm socket but not sure...

Oh, and needless to say, do it on axle stands not a jack!

Once I had mine off, I then had a bit of jiggery pokery with pulling the arm down, the wheel-hub 'out', and then finally dropping the coilover out... Helps if you've undone the top mount bolts in the boot first, then it just drops out in one go :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
they havenet got a blody manual for the ix mate, i will download the manual for the 8 tho as the suspension is the same, oh and im gona get one of these gun from ebay! always wanted one of these:crackup:
 

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The VIII one will do fine mate.

I think you'll be surprised how well that cheap gun will work. It actually produces more torque than most of the electric guns 4 times plus more expensive. :naughty:

Paul
they havenet got a blody manual for the ix mate, i will download the manual for the 8 tho as the suspension is the same, oh and im gona get one of these gun from ebay! always wanted one of these:crackup:
 

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The Nut side is closest to the front of the car, bolt side to the back.

Mine were an absolute bug ger, I have to use a 3ft breaker bar from halfords (£20) and it done it perfectly. I drowned them in WD40 and make sure its a half inch drive not quarter as it snaps like butter.

Anything less than that and you havent had enough weetabix :mhihi:
 

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Impact gun + good sockets + Duck oil = easy peasy.

Cheap socket set + scaffold tube + rust = broken tools and bones.

Impact gun & decent sockets are worth thier weight in gold so stump up.
 

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Phil
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I had my struts off this afternoon. You need a 19mm socket on the nut side and I used a 19mm ring spanner on the bolt head to stop it turning as the nut is loosened. My struts have been off several times in the last year so any difficulty in the operation is due to tightness rather than corrosion. One mistake I made initially was to first remove the bolts on the top mount. The problem with this is that you then simply can't get enough purchase on the main strut bolts - and that's even with the car very well stabilised on axle stands etc.
 

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Phil
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Just another thought - whilst doing mine this afternoon I noticed that my standard socket doesn't sit on the nut fully because it has a conical, tapered end and makes contact with the wrench drive piece. If it's very tight to start with you might need a deeper socket such as the kind you might use to remove spark plugs.
 
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