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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just joined the BBS and I'm interested to know how some of you guys manage to run more than around 1.2Bar boost pressure without hitting fuel cut and/or running lean.

With my current situation, I cannot see any other way but to replace the ECU. Is that how you've all gone about it?

Initially, I fitted an HKS FCD. This device scales the MAP signal to the ECU thus having the effect of shifting fuel-cut higher up the scale, albeit at the expense of leaning out the mixture (hit 16.3 at WOT.. which did give me rather a scary moment!). This lean condition was compensated by fitting a higher pressure fuel-pump that brought the A/R down to around the 10 mark. So by further increasing the division ratio of the HKS FCD, the mixture was leaned out to a more respectable 12.0 at WOT.

Okay, I admit all that sounds like a bit of a cludge but I'm just learning about the car and I like to start things slowly and experiment; take things stage by stage, all that kind of thing.

There was also some problem with the boost curve, which turned out to be a faulty wastegate actuator. The seal had perished around the actuator rod, which meant most of the pressure was escaping down the side of the rod. When the actuator pod was cut open, it was *very* rusty inside. I figured that, over time, water had corroded the rod at the base and wrecked the seal.

A new actuator pod was sourced from Turbo Technics. The old pod was cut from the stock bracket and the new one bolted on. This also gave the opportunity of fitting a pod with a lower actuation pressure, so as to make it faster acting and to give the opportunity of running lower boost when just cruising along motorways and the like.

Next mod was to fit the new Blitz boost controller (together with the HKS FMIC which was the subject of a post I made to another thread). The Blitz unit sits rather nicely under the head unit and I especially like the 1/4 DIN format. Found a great space for the underbonnet black-box at the front of the LH chassis-leg (just ahead of the battery tray). This location is a relatively cool area yet is still quite close to the turbo, so pipe-length could be kept to a minimum.

To set the Blitz controller, you have a range from zero to 100 where a setting of zero is stock boost and 100 is wastegate always shut. I found that a setting of 60 equals a boost pressure of 1.11 Bar or 16 psig. If I turn it up further, however, around 1.2 Bar I hit fuel-cut.

There is still room for a further increase in the division ratio of the HKS FCD *but* this will have the effect of leaning out the mixture - which I obviously cannot do. So that's why I'm stuck in a rut and the only way forward seems to me to be fitment of an aftermarket ECU. Unless there is some other way.

Thoughts anyone?

Yours,
J





Yours,
J
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The broken actuator happens a lot of times in the evo, I changed it too.

Forget the fuel cut defencer it leans the mixture as you say.

I have a full exhaust, hks intercooler, PE fuel pump, hks racing suction kit and I raise the boost modyfyng the restrictor and removing the grommet, but you have the boost controller and you don't need these modifications.
I can run at around 1.3bars (blitz dual turbo timer) without having fuel cuts, but 1.2 is fine if you have the standard ecu.

I tryed the ralliart sports ecu for a faw days and it really makes a big difference and there are no fuel cuts at 1.5 bars.
You have a lot of other Japanese ecu or gr.n ones as motec or gems, but they could be more expensive and I never tryed them, off course if you want to do bigger mods then you should go for something like a motec.

Why don't you send some pictures of your evo with all the modifications to the mlr?

Also do you have a picture and some information about your replacement pod?
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
60 on my blitz |EQU| 1.5 peak.....i run at 58/59
what gain are you at ?

i have had a 6 cut at 1.1,but my 5 ran 1.3 without cut
now using sport ecu,which is worth every penny !
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Pluto............

Gain is set to 25 currently and, as I say, I get a steady 1.11 Bar at 60. Any more than 60 and I hit fuel cut. I've yet to play with the gain settings.

Maxi.........

The replacement actuator pod was simply sourced from Turbo Technics. They have a range of them and they cost about £50 each. I decided to go that route, instead of the stock item, because if you fit a pod that actuates with less boost it will operate faster when the boost controller kicks in.

Of course, you have to find a way of mating the actuator with the actuator arm. But all you need do is weld a threaded sleave on the stock actuator arm and screw it onto the new actuator pod. The replacement pod has 2 x 1/4 UNF threaded studs protruding from its mounting face. So after the old actuator pod has been cut from the stock bracket you simply drill 2 holes in the bracket for the studs of the new actuator and fasten with a couple of bolts and washers.

It works pretty well. If I set the boost controller to stock boost I'm running just 0.65 Bar (or thereabouts). But at the flick of a switch I can go from the sublime to the ridiculous. http://www.lancerregister.com/graphics/laugh1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >

Yours,
J
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
start with gain at 100,and bring down to stop the surging when coming on boost
my compromise is around 60
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks, but before I begin playing further with the settings I need to get around this darned fuel-cut. The only way I can see is to fit the Gems ECU; which seems to do be able to do the job at a fairly reasonable price. That way will also give me the ability to make small mapping changes when I fit new cams and make head mods, etc.

Yours,
J
 
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