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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
how do you learned chaps go about this....with relay off a separate switch or just mod the wires/mess on the bulkhead...?
 

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What i did Tony was get a amp wiring kit off ebay for your cabling,

Run the live from the battery to just in front of the rear seat and use the switched live to the pump to trigger a 4 pin relay

Relay connections are

Pin 85 earth
Pin 86 + swiching live (original + feed to pump)
Pin 87 + feed to pump
Pin 30 + feed from battery
 

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As I understand it, this is a pointless excercise on the Evo's as the wiring layout and design allows the pump to draw full alternator voltage and the associated current when it's needed.
When it's not, the pump will be supplied with a lower voltage and current.

The best of both worlds if it works as it should.

Paul
how do you learned chaps go about this....with relay off a separate switch or just mod the wires/mess on the bulkhead...?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
evos

hmmm-i"m led to believe that its not the best of systems-probably even more limited at 500 or so bhp with big injectors
 

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Oh yes, if you're running big power you'd hard wire in a multiple pump set up in. Again though, it wouldn't be needed for a single high pressure pump, as I'm led to believe.

Paul
hmmm-i"m led to believe that its not the best of systems-probably even more limited at 500 or so bhp with big injectors
 

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If you use the original pump feed to trigger the relay it'll have a momentary break in power when the original feed switches from low to high voltage, not a problem but the relay clicking will drive you up the wall if it's mounted inside the car. I ended up going through a circuit diagram and removed the resistor pack and relay from the bulkhead so the new relay is getting a constant voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
power

If you use the original pump feed to trigger the relay it'll have a momentary break in power when the original feed switches from low to high voltage, not a problem but the relay clicking will drive you up the wall if it's mounted inside the car. I ended up going through a circuit diagram and removed the resistor pack and relay from the bulkhead so the new relay is getting a constant voltage.
cheers-the mitsi system looks over-complicated to me for what it does.
 

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Almost a kilo of relays and wires can be removed though, even more if the loom is stripped right back to remove all the old wires...:D
 

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no carbon yet then? doors/roof etc..
Hijacking a thread now - sorry! Maybe some carbon on the way but all will be revealed very soon. Can't do carbon roof as MSA rules forbid any bodyshell modifications between the wheelbase
 

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If you use the original pump feed to trigger the relay it'll have a momentary break in power when the original feed switches from low to high voltage, not a problem but the relay clicking will drive you up the wall if it's mounted inside the car. I ended up going through a circuit diagram and removed the resistor pack and relay from the bulkhead so the new relay is getting a constant voltage.
How did You remove the resistor pack and relay from bulkhead?

I would like to hardwire the walbro pump but I do not think that it would be wise just to add another relay and still use to power the relay with original system. Then tehere would be just one more relay to break down.

Ideal would be that one original relay would power the pump relay, which gives power from battery to fuel pump trough new thicker wires.

From under the dash relay would take the trigger. Why the 2nd relay and resistor are there in the first place?
 
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