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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know of anything specific to check on GSR Lancer's,is there any major problems with them, this one has done 80,000KM's and amp; has just had the cambelt changed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Wheel bearings, aircon system, paint work, air filter, back windows sometimes don't go down, tracking use evo 1 settings check and replace some of these, the aircon sometimes doesn't have any fluid in the system so it doesn't work.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
did you buy it
i have a 1993 gsr 1800
what boost pressure and ignition timming do you guys run
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
GTiBOY,

Mitsubishi in the early 90’s used a poor adhesive to attach the roof to its supports on some models of Lancer. The series of cars in question frequently developed rust at the adhesive.

The repair is not a convenient one and it is tempting for a seller to hide this sin.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Andy has it about covered, the suspension geometry I'd get checked out asap as it can be very expensive on tyres if incorrectly setup (new front boots every 4-6000 miles!). As he says, use the Evo 1 settings to be found here on the MLR site.

At 80kk (is that how you put thousand kilometres? http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/happy1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >) and assuming the cambelt [I]has[/I] been changed (worth removing the cambelt cover to check...) there should be little to worry about if the car feels solid. Don't worry about creaks and rattles, the interior is prone to them especially if lowered/stiffened suspension is fitted. Gearchange can be a bit awkward going from 1st to 2nd (esp. on cold mornings), as long as it is fine in unhurried shifts and better when warm then it is just the mechanism.

Things to watch out for in future:

Water Pump - Have a tendency to last to about 90k, if you start using water and there's no whitish deposit on the inside of the oil cap then that's probably the culprit. Replacement pump ~£70

Idle Stability Contorl Stepper Motor - Can start being 'erratic' after 100k, lumpy idle is the symptom. Replacement £??? 'cos I've not had mine done yet! It went about 10k ago (now at 120k) and I've just lived with it...

Electric window switches - if the driver's switch (automatic) fubars then the motor can be stuck trying to wind the window down. To avoid a fire get it sorted asap if it goes. This happened to me last week!

Other than that (I've done over 60,000km in mine over nearly 3 years) theres not much to look out for. In that time I've gone through 1 clutch, roughly 1 set of pads per year, a new battery and an alternator (my fault!) so you could say it's been a very reliable motor!
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
again i ask what boost pressure pressure and ignition timming do you
guys run?
i am using 96 octane fuel
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
In the UK theres only a few GSRs so nobody really knows what to do with them, there maybe just 20 in the whole country. This means that tunning compaines are not interested in us and many have never heard of your car. The money is seen to be made in the Evo 4,5, and 6.
I have an HKS SSQV dump valve and a HKS super flow air filter, boost and timing are standard. Boost pressure is normally raised, see members cars, but i havent due to fuel cuts in the past.
Sorry carnt help any more but see if the other guys can.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sorry for missing your original points!

Standard boost is ~10psi, I run 12psi due to exhaust and hopefully a bleeder will see me up to 14.5psi which is about the safe limit for the 4G93. Ignition is standard, both plugs/leads and timing.

I assume your are using 96 octane measured by RON|PLS|MON/2 which IIRC is slightly better than the 97RON fuel we use in the UK. Basically use the best (highest octane) fuel that you can, anything at all to inhibit detonation.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thank you for your replys
at the moment i am running 12psi and 10 degrees BTDC ignition timming, standard is 12 degrees from japan
To tell if it is standard timming without a timming light check that the piece of tap(silver metalic) across the crank angle sensor is not broken
The rank angle sensor is on the drivers side end of the inlet camshaft it has a dome black cap on it with a oval plug with a singal row of wires
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thank you for your replys
at the moment i am running 12psi and 10 degrees BTDC ignition timming, standard is 12 degrees from japan
To tell if it is standard timming without a timming light check that the piece of tap(silver metalic) across the crank angle sensor is not broken
The rank angle sensor is on the drivers side end of the inlet camshaft it has a dome black cap on it with a oval plug with a singal row of wires
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thank you for your replys
at the moment i am running 12psi and 10 degrees BTDC ignition timming, standard is 12 degrees from japan
To tell if it is standard timming without a timming light check that the piece of tap(silver metalic) across the crank angle sensor is not broken
The rank angle sensor is on the drivers side end of the inlet camshaft it has a dome black cap on it with a oval plug with a singal row of wires
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
when you advance the timming the spark plug fires earlierin relation to the position of that piston and the downward pressure of the flame puts the pressure onto the piton at a different part of its stroke
When i brought my gsr the timming had been adjusted to 2 degrees after top dead centre and it was bloody slow. It didn't even push youn back into your seat(it does now)
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The idea is to ignit the mixture BTDC so that full combustion occurs when the piston reaches TDC (or thereabouts). Igniting the mixture ATDC will result in power loss.
 
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