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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I have a sprint event coming up shortly that I am competing in with my Evo VII and I would like to get the geometry set up properly before I start the event. I would like to know what settings to ask the garage to dial in considering I have got -30mm Eibach springs.
I would like the car to be set up with the factory settings but with a tiny bit more oversteer.
I have tried search function and FAQ, but I really need the standard factory settings and the tried and tested way of getting a wee bit more oversteer.
 

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my settings are:-

toe(deg) Camber(deg)
front 0.08 -1.5
rear 0.20 -0.4

if you were only doing sprinting then i would suggest more neg camber on the front. i dont want to run any more as lots of negative camber wears the inside edge of the tyre. you could also try a bit more toe out at the front. this will make the car unstable in a straight line but quick to turn into corners.

you might also try more rear toe out if you have an lsd. this will make the rear end very lively. for ayc its better to keep the rear under control and use the ayc to help push you around the corner from the back.

also try r888's. very very grippy.

have fun. let us know how you get on!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Does this look about right?

Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII GSR
Geometry Settings

Front Suspension

Front Toe-in 0mm
Front Camber - 1.5 deg
Front Castor 3.55 Deg
Front King Pin 13.45 deg

Lower arm ball joint rotation torque 0.5 Nm – 3.4 Nm
Lower arm pillow ball bushing rotation starting torque 0.5 Nm – 3.0 Nm

Rear Suspension

Rear Toe-in 3mm
Rear Camber -1 deg
Thrust Angle 0mm

Upper arm ball joint rotation torque 0.5 Nm – 2.5 Nm
Trailing arm ball joint rotation torque 0.5 Nm – 2.5 Nm
Toe control arm ball joint rotation torque 0.5 Nm – 2.5 Nm
Toe control arm slide bushing rotation torque 0.5 Nm – 2.0 Nm
Lower arm pillow ball bushing rotation torque 0.5 Nm – 3.0 Nm
Stabilizer link ball joint turning torque 1.7 Nm – 3.1 Nm

I am running Toyo Proxie T1R.
 

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I am using the following settings at the mo:

F toe 0mm
R toe- in 1mm

F camber - approx 2.6deg
R camber - 1,5deg

I was using more aggressive settings but getting through the tyres too quickly :(

Darryl

- but I have never done a sprint - thats for the track.
 

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for a neutral car you really want half as much camber on the rear as what you set on the front . also try to stay away from lazer systems as they rarely offer repeatable results . measurement for rally track/sprint cars works very well and you can for a £40 investment get 100% accurate results everytime . whats more you can retest a car and you will get exactly the same results .

front camber 2.5-2 degree's
front toe 1mm toe in

rear camber 1.5- 1 degree.
rear toe 1mm toe in .


hope this helps


would any one like a demo of manual aligment ??
 

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my pals @ merlin are always worth a try . doing geometry by hand and using a rule and parallel bars with a good camber gauge will alwyas give near perfect results . thing with lazer systems is that you really can set everything just so, drive around the block ! put it back on the lazers and it wrong again !! doh . you will also be advised that if you run coilovers you are better setting corner weigts as you do the set up as the corner weight adjustment will alter the toe camber you see . also allow for you in the car say 130 kg's
:crackup:
 

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Looking for some thing the same....eibach springs with pretty much same standard settings .....just with a little more oversteer.....for a 6 GSR???

Anybody got the right settings for this???
 
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