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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any heating engineers on here? if so maybe you can help with my heating before I get a engineer out :)

Basics are that we have a fairly old Gas boiler ( Glow worm ultimate) heating both a hot water tank in airing cupboard and the radiators, controlled by a old digital control box (Danfoss FP715) which is pretty basic 3 on/offs per day etc for both Heating and Hot water, also an old rotary wall stat in hallway for room temp.

All has been fine for 3months since I moved in mostly just set on Auto with odd +1hr setting on both when need to boost water or house temp etc, no problems there

Anyhows for last couple of days as mostly in house during holidays ive had Heating on All-day setting ( on first on and off at last etc) and controlled house temp with room stat, fine for 1 day and then end of 2nd day I noticed heating isn't working later in day when temp started to drop, to be fair I had room stat on fairly low so it hadn't been on much all day, normally I just turn it up at evening to raise the temp, but now boiler wont fire no matter what setting on stat or even if I hit +1hr or just switch to on via control box with room stat turned up etc, water still heats fine and fires up boiler no problem.

First thought was the room stat in hallway but it does click as you turn it and pass the room temp etc, but maybe its not sending its signal to boiler/control box etc.?

Is there a way to easily test the room stat with a meter ? or bypass it to make sure its not the cause ? im pretty handy/safe with electrics I just wanted and idea of basic checks before we get the engineer out in new year.

Any help welcome :)

HAPPY NEW YEAR :D

Ian
 

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Take the Thermostat of the wall and post a picture of terminals at the back (Thermostat not wall plate with live wires)
Its dead easy to check for continuity

Also if your programmer is not working properly it will not send live wire to Thermostat so even if your Thermostat is working properly

There are more than one way of wiring central heating but this is the most common method I have found

Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes boiler flame fires up and is visible when you switch the water on, its just not firing up when you activate the heating :(

Tested continuity on the room stat between terminals 1 & 2 as above, when you turn it up and pass the "click" then you get continuity so I think at least that parts ok, just not sure if boiler/control is getting the signal.
 

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Sounds like a pump or diverter valve issue to me rather than thermostat:)
Well spotted if the hot water is working it will be the diverter valve.It has to motor over to switch the heating on,probably motor failed.You can change the motor in the valve or change the whole valve :smthumbup
 

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Yes boiler flame fires up and is visible when you switch the water on, its just not firing up when you activate the heating :(

Tested continuity on the room stat between terminals 1 & 2 as above, when you turn it up and pass the "click" then you get continuity so I think at least that parts ok, just not sure if boiler/control is getting the signal.
Does the boiler show/have the ability to show fault codes? Sounds like a board fault on the heating side to me. If it was the pump or diverter then I would expect the boiler to try to fire initially then fail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok thanks, so looking at my diverter valve it has 3 positions W, M and H, im guessing these stand for W=Water heating only, M=Middle for both water and heating, H= Heating only ?

So only if the diverter is in H or M position the heating can switch on if activated by programmer/thermostat etc ?

Im pretty sure it was in the M position yesterday when I had water and heating on at programmer in an effort to get some heat in radiators, I worked out that as boiler fires up to do water then if I switch heating on the diverter moved to allow the heat to circulate the radiators, of course once water in tank was upto temp the boiler switched off though despite being on at programmer and thermo wound up etc.

Hmmm, maybe it wasn't fully over will go have a tinker now.

Cheers
Ian
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Does the boiler show/have the ability to show fault codes? Sounds like a board fault on the heating side to me. If it was the pump or diverter then I would expect the boiler to try to fire initially then fail.
No its a old basic unit (10years old maybe), ive dug out manual but nothing much of help in there its more about install and servicing etc
 

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The live is sent from the programmer to the thermostat and when the thermostat makes contact back to the boiler to fire. Have seen a few programmers with dodgy connections over the years. Is it built in programmer on boiler or external on a wall?
 

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Well sorry that's not quite accurate it makes the microswitch on the zone valve and that runs external pump. I'd call a professional decent heating engineer will sort that quickly enough
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks guys, after a bit of fiddling around boiler then fired up as normal when i switched it on the check voltage at thermostat, tried few setting's (just water and just heating as well as both on etc) and all seems fine now, so dont know if its something ive done or its a intermittent issue, time will tell i guess!

Control is separate unit other side of utility.

Diverter valve wise from what i remember it seemed to goto W and M positions ok yesterday when i was watching but not to H, seems to do full range now but will keep a close eye on that if i have anymore problems.

Cheers
Ian
 

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Thanks guys, after a bit of fiddling around boiler then fired up as normal when i switched it on the check voltage at thermostat, tried few setting's (just water and just heating as well as both on etc) and all seems fine now, so dont know if its something ive done or its a intermittent issue, time will tell i guess!

Control is separate unit other side of utility.

Diverter valve wise from what i remember it seemed to goto W and M positions ok yesterday when i was watching but not to H, seems to do full range now but will keep a close eye on that if i have anymore problems.

Cheers
Ian
Sticking diverters is fairly common, Honeywell valves have a lever that can be used to manually actuate the valve open, providing it's powered down, other manufacturers of valves often only have plastic levers to show he position and can need the head removing to free off.

There was an era of Honeywell that suffered with the rubber inside swelling up and the little synchron motor in the head couldn't cope and would just slip the gears. If you get stuck PM me and I can whatsapp you pictures of the valves and how they work. I have spare 2 and 3 ports/heads/synchron motors if you want to see how they work.

Also the Honeywell fault finding app can be a huge help. I found with S and Y plans that the wiring could be a real mess but there's only so many ways they can be wired and physically work :thumbup:
 

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Forgot to check back in on this was workimg on the fuel lines on the 6 at the time

Possible you had a poor connection on programmer or stat glad it's working ok too 👌

Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk
 
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