Sure fitting a boost controller and setting it a low boost will help,
but also, I know it's hard, but a lighter right foot will also help.
I've also heard that fitting a Apexi Super AFC (Air Fuel Controller)
will give you considerable gains in mpg!! Tests on Evo 5/6's on
motorway cruising gave an easy 30mpg!!!
Contact Dave Perry on 01925 445174 on the Apexi AFC.
Hope this is of help to you.http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/happy1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >[img]http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/happy1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >
15mpg average means you have a very heavy right foot! I usually get 24mpg in my E6 and I don't drive like a granny either! Just make sure you are driving off boost when you aren't going for it, short shifting at about 4000rpm and let the low down torque do the rest. As I found when running my engine in you are still faster than 95% of the cars on the road even when sticking to a 4000rpm maximum rev limit.
The Evo 4/5/6 engine is overfueled for cooling, this is good for on boost but off boost you don't really need the extra fuel so there are gains to be made by fitting the AFC and cutting the lower rpm fueling.
An electronic boost controller will not allow you to boost lower than the factory boost setting. HH6 is right, Evo's run overly-rich, which is good for full-boost driving, but since I also my E4 for everyday driving, I'm planning on getting a 2nd gen APex'i AFC and tune my engine idle until 3K RPM's nearer to stoich to maximize economy. |EQU|)
The 1st Gen AFC is a single knob type which adjusts the entire RPM range. The 2nd gen AFC has 5 knobs which allow you to tune 5 specific RPM points to run richer/leaner. The 3rd gen AFC is fully digital and allows you to tune 8 RPM points to run rich/lean. This is the hardest to tune (too many electronics settings!) but when done properly is the best! I also like the WOT and part-WOT settings of the 3rd gen AFC. |EQU|)
Wrong, I have a Blitz Dual solinoid boost controller which when turned off uses the standard factory boost with out the standard actuator, this lowers the boost to 0.6 bar from the standard 0.95 bar. When I use this setting the car returns approx. 25mpg. You get 4 other settings so you can play around and if your brave enough drop below 15 mpg!!!!!!!!
The EvoLink ECU fitted to my EVO VI does, as a secondary benefit to substantial power gains, return a cruise mpg (at 90 mph) of about 28 mpg. Fast road driving circa 22 mpg. Track about 8 mpg. Was 22, 15, 10 respectively with standard ECU.
I am still confused of which of theses is best .. I think I may have a fuel leek as most days I clean off a mark around the filler cap and back to the bumper ...
THanks guys for you ideas ... any more ?
Do you screw on the cap correctly? Screw it up until you get rachet like clicks.
The cheapest way to save your fuel is not drive hard all the time! I just filled up my E6 and checked the mpg...25mpg, the best I have had so far (and the first time I got over 200 miles out of a tank before filling). That was a mixture of motorway/dual carriageway, B-roads and town driving. I wouldn't say I was driving like a granny either! I don't know the way you drive so I can't comment whether your driving style is to blame or if there is a problem with your car.
If you are continually getting 15mpg even when driving carefully then it could be a problem with your car. I suggest you get it checked out if the problem persists.
As to modifications to save fuel, the first and cheapest route should be an AFC controller (Apexi) as Botchi suggests.
If you want increased performance or you are planning to modify your car in the future at some point then it will pay you to opt for an aftermarket mapable ECU such as the Evolink as SteveP suggests. It will cost you more but you will get increase economy with off boost motorway driving along with a performance increase on boost.
I get 31mpg from mine on the daily commute (M20-M26-M25), don't usually get above 80 mph though. When I enjoy the car at weekends on A/B roads I get around 28mpg and when I'm really trying on the track I get 8mpg!!!. I expected worse, and thats on normal unleaded, Super for the track though.
it sounds like you are doing a lot of short journeys? If you are then the mpg you quote is about right.
You are running on ordinary UL normally and SUL for trackdays? Just in case you didn't know then Evo's are supposed to be run on 97RON SUL all the time. If you did know this and are prepared to take any risk then fair enough. DO you reset the ECU when you switch fuel grades?
If you only drive your car when the engine is cold and it never gets really warm, then your fuel consumption is normal. BTW, doing this is not very good for the engine. You should buy a smart for that type of distances http://www.ltregister.f9.co.uk/graphics/biggrin1.gif border|EQU| 0 align|EQU| absmiddle >
Yes I do a lot of town driving (work from home) but even on runs the consumption doesn’t differ much.
Thanks for the advice.
I try to be careful and warm the engine before pushing it and also letting it cool down.
Like many others on this forum, HH6’s unfortunate engine demise made me much more conscious of looking after the engine.
Spooky, I have thought about buying a Smart for running around in.
In the end decided that I would rarely use it, as the urge to drive the EVO is too great. I used to have a Metro (yes I’ll own up to owning one and it was not a 6R4!) which stayed on the drive most of the time and when I did use it, I scre*ed the hell out of it.