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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
1/
as standard the voltage reaching the fuel pump is less than full battery terminal volts.
2/
this means the fuel pump produces less than it's full available fuel flow and pressure.
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when the Evo engine is modified much beyond 1.3bar the standard fuel delivery is not adequate.
4/
by rewiring the standard fuel pump so it actually gets full battery volts the fuel delivery is increased.
5/
briefly , if a thicker cable is connected from the battery via a fuse (4 safety !) 2 the fuel pump via a relay controlled by the existing fuel pump feed the fuel pump gets the volts it needs 2 increase the fuel delivery.

The pump will still run out of flow when the engine is tuned further , but this is a quick and low cost method 2 get wot is available from the standard pump :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
THANKS EVOBOY
I DONT SPOSE THERE IS A WIRING DIAGRAM IN EXISTENCE FOR THIS IS THERE?
CAN THIS BE AN EASY DIY JOBBIE OR BEST LEFT TO SOMEONE WITHOUT PIGS TROTTERS FOR HANDS:D
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
the voltage to the pump is variable from 9 to system voltage at full load,by wiring direct,you are getting more flow when you do not need it,
i.e. when normally 9 v would be supplied........no load driving
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
on my car...nominal 150lph pump

standard:
low power 8.8 volts
high power 11.8 volts

after rewire:
low power 8.8 volts
high power 13.8 volts

diagrams are in the wsm

best to retain the low power circut otherwise will heat up fuel more at low speed/idle
best to consult an auto electrician

rewire is a prerequisite for most decent high power pumps anyway as they draw a lot more current

andrew
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ask evotrac for the diag,
i believe there is a spare relay in the fusebox drivers footwell,
yes its easy......if you are handy with lecky !
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
To expand on this a bit..

I am about to replace my pump and tank with an ATL fuel cell and BOsch racing pump :D

What controls the two voltage levels? Is is the ECU? If so, I am replacing that with a GEMS - so does it still apply?

As the tank, pump, and battery are in the boot, does it seem sensible to wire it all there, and just extend the fuel relay controls to the boot?
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Blade

You do not need two different supplies to your new uprated pump , I would wire in the pump using a fused supply ( 10amp Maxi type ) from the battery via a load relay mounted in the boot using at least 2.5 mm2 diameter cable this relay is then controlled by the feed to your existing fuel pump.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
dave is right the low power circut is just to stop overheating the fuel when you spend 2 hours on the north circular stuck behind a bus
probably not a problem for a track car

if the gems does have a low power circut then the relay might not close properly and 'chatter' at 9 volts
i would wire a toggle switch coming via kill switch and mark it 'fuel' and use this to operate relay
not sure if pump power should come also via kill but this would add safety

not sure about the 10amp fuse might need to have something heavier, check the pump specs and add about 50% for a rating

andrew
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Not sure on Evotrak add 50% for a rating.

U need a grade C fuse which is motor rated, and with a type C fuse U get the advantage of three times the starting current for 3 secs.

So a 30amp for 3 secs etc. Long enough for any pump to start and keeping well within manufacturers figures, but it also nows when there is a short or cross conection, so blows straight away.

Cheers
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So what controls the two voltages to the pump?

When we changed Six Mads pump there was only one set of terminals on top of the pump, so ther must be a splitter/relay somewhere or something to change the supply voltage?

I was hoping to do this mod on mine, as fitting a relay inline is quite an easy job (aslong as you know which route the wiring runsb?? *hint* ;))

Rich.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Fuel Pump Relay No.2 on the bulkhead switches between the 2 voltages. That big dead silver hedgehog on the bulkhead (technical term :D...OK heatsink then) is the Fuel Pump Resistor (0.6 to 0.9 ohms) to drop the voltage. The Fuel Pump Relay No.2 (next to it) switches battery current past it for high pressure or none at all (i.e. it all goes through the resistor) for low pressure. It is a slightly different setup on the E4/5.
 
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