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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i,ve had my evo iv for a month now.it had i presume fuel cuts at 5,000 rpm in every gear from the first time i drove it.the standard wastegate actuator diaphram had two holes in it,i bought a replacement from japan warehouse for 50quid at 1.2 bar,and it still loses power at this rev range.its got fgk exhaust system,and hks air filter with hardpipes.its got no boost controller at all,theres a pipe which is now new from the turbo downpipe joining directly to the actuator diaphram housing.today when i held at 3000 rpm ready to take a tractor i then floored it and it s power died on me,i backed off accelarator and went to 3rd.cant work out why its happening.losing confidence with it.what is wrong with her?
 

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Hi

You need to find out what boost you are really running. If the actuator is OK ( even though its new it might be iffy) you should be running no more than 1 BAR boost. You can check the actuator by hooking it you to a foot pump and with your hand very gently, presurise it untill it starts to lift. Misti say 1mm is the lift point. Be careful as you can damage the actuator if you do this to hard.

You really should have a way of checking the boost while running. see if you can buy or borrow a boost guadge. Don't drive the car hard until you find out what boost you are really running as you might blow it up!

MB
 

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Yeah like Burgers22 says you do need to check the boost. but you may have a missfire some ignition beakdown.

Its A difficult one without actualy testing your car

Regards

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Matt TRL said:
Yeah like Burgers22 says you do need to check the boost. but you may have a missfire some ignition beakdown.

Its A difficult one without actualy testing your car

Regards

i did a little experiment, instead of foot to the floor whilst accelerating i gradually pressed it as the car accelerated i pressed it futher,and results were much better,the evo pulled smoothly,though i did not take the revs past 4500rpm just in case but there definately a difference.i noticed a new battery on my car mabye it got jump started before i owned it? ecu probs?i am seriously considering a standard actuator to be fitted,i get the feeling there maf is sensing over flow of intake due to the actuator and hks filter?this problem existed when first bought but thought i could fix it with new 1.2 bar actuator as the standard mitsi one was broke but no real improvment......
 

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Is it more of a misfire or is it fuel cut?

Fuel cut will make the car jolt once violently, like your trying to headbut the windscreen. it will do this every few seconds as it remakes boost after a fuel gut event.

If its boost cut then it could be the actuator or actuator adjustment.

If its not fuel cutting then you have another problem, missfire under load

Or possibly a blocked/melted catalytic converter if your running cat

Regards

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
with the actuator when i fitted it i could see the upper half of the wastegate pin through the eye of the actuator rod end and i had to use pliers to pull against the spring of the actuator to fit
the eye over the wastegate pin and then fitted the e clip.this actuator does have a hat built on it and before i fitted the actuator the hat sat flush against the actuator housing under the pull of the spring and now it sits 2mm above the actuator housing surface,is this ok?the way you explained the fuel cuts doesnt fit with what i feel is wrong with the car,so i guess its not that!if i adjust the actuator so that the hat sits a bit closer to the actuator housing, will there will be a difference? this weekend i will check the cat.,and i am going to borrow my m8s evo iv air filter box and see how that goes.but really is 1.2bar to much for the standard evo iv?this actuator is bugging me.
 

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stupid question but do you have the standard solinoid in there i had similar problems with my 4 but found it was down to the three cracked pistons amazingly the car still ran
 

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IVE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM

i bought a actuator of a guy from japan on ebay stating its 1.2 bar but its only 1 bar
and was losing presure under high boost

if i gradually reved the engine then it will not cut

i changed it to a forge actuator and all was ok

let me no how it goes
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
my evo iv has no solenoid at all that how i bought the car.does it really need one are there any advantages or dissadvantages with it?my dipstick blows out after a blast about 1/2 inch,may be weak rubber seals at top of it or mega back pressure? i did have the actuator off ebay at japanwarehouse a guy named ichiro tanaka...stating 1.2 bar hmmm...rang around garages today one said take the evo to a 4x4 rolling road tuner coz the car has to be under load during diagnosing the problem.will be doing that for sure hopefully theres a slot for the weekend.meantime i will test with a footpump see what pressure it opens the actuator..also i will borrow my m8s evo iv coil packs see how that goes.....
 

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first thing first i would highly recommend you have a compression test done make sure you pistons are ok i would do this before even driving it you can buy a tester at any halford bout £20
as for the solienoid there must be something on your car to control your boost pressure other wise it would just boost to full capacity which would stop everything working and shut down plus would blow your engine
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yeah i think i should get compression test done cheers.theres definately no solenoid here,ilooked at my m8s,he has t piece followed the tube and at one end theres the solenoid and mine is missing,i only got the single the thin rubber tubing about 7 inches long connecting turbo outlet nipple to the actuator nipple.
 

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get a standard solenoid and put it in can you see the plug for it they go under the black tank on the back right of your engine bay that should sort the boost out but i would still check your pistons you should get about 150 on each cylinder and not much more than 7-8 betwenn them
 

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morgan69 said:
get a standard solenoid and put it in can you see the plug for it they go under the black tank on the back right of your engine bay that should sort the boost out but i would still check your pistons you should get about 150 on each cylinder and not much more than 7-8 betwenn them
This will actualy increase the boost he is running and should not be done untill he sorts out his base level of boost. At the moment, with the pipe direct from the turbo outlet to the actuator, he's running his base boost. This needs to be measured and the actuator tested first. On an Evo IV this should be around 0.8 Bar I think. Putting the boost solinoied will increase the boost, which in this case would be a bad thing.

MB
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
been looking in my engine bay now where the battery used to be there is a hks filter with hardpipe,now battery is in where the air filterbox was anyway took battery and tray out along with the what i think is the fuel vapour canister i had a good look definately no solenoid or connector showing/ bare wires/nothing just a tidy looking loom,i think whoever had this car before in japan may have had a boost controller and took it all off before export?i think the loom could be extended coz the maf sensor connector is close to the n/s headlight than originally near the black canistor there is a red connector hanging by wires within glove box?i booked my evo iv to have a rolling road test to diagnose the fault for wednseday.tonight i had a look at plugs they are NGK BPR 6ES.and No 1 plug lead hanging out a bit fitted all the way now.i,m looking at fitting own boost controller and shopping around,thanks to all the good advice here its i think its a good start.checking tommorow how much pressure the actuator takes to open.lot to do.....no rest for a third weekend wifes getting madder every week...bless her...if only they understood..
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
spent some weekend with the wife shes cool for now....been looking around this site and my pdf workshop manual and came to the conclusion that something was wrong with my imported evo iv.the black plastic canister was rigged to the boost solenoid totally.being new to the evo turbo system i didnt have a clue about it.anyways i rigged it right and there is a difference now.there is definately a fuel cut now.can feel it.sudden halt and then a boost and jolt etc.this is coz i have no restrictors at all in the vacuum tubes.as before it was simply the actuator opening the wastegate at boost peak.now all ineed are the two restrictors to complete the boost control system and chocks away.troble is though where can i get the pair?.....
 

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that is a good question ive been running mine with out these for 6 months now and i get a perfect 14 psi boost all the way through
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
been and done some checks on my evo iv.the fuel pump resistor is showing no resistance.fitted a boost gauge and it shows 0.9bar boost sustained even during the loss of power.i done a leak check of the intake right through to intake manifold,all is good.compression test done ,all is good there.i regapped spark plug from,0.8mm to 0.7mm to 0.6mm, and no change.the number 2 fuel pump relay works fine.there are no fault codes present on ecu. this car does 260 km on 30 litres of fuel is this normal?i'm getting the feeling my fuel pump is not kicking the fuel at boost levels?..since the fuel pump resistor is knackered.the fuel pumps been working flat out since the resistor broke.would it still push out the same full pressure now during boost,or would it still work anyway even if tired and worn out but at less,pressure delivery,or do these pumps fail completely.am i going down the right route,with fuel problems?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
this weekend borrowed my m8s coil pack and leads along with kks spark plugs.and the same loss of power at 4000k revs jerkiness,then i back off change gear.can anyone suggest anything else to check.......?
 
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