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After viewing several impressive restoration projects on the MLR recently Ive finally plucked up the courage to start mine !

The plan being a complete underbody restoration, down to bare metal, rustbullet, paint (red, black and white) various parts to be blasted and powder coated, new bolts, bushes and other new bits as needed !!

Managed to bag myself a Bradbury 4 post lift from my mechanic friend who was upgrading to scissor lifts. Should make the whole job easier ! Had to buy and fit an inverter to convert to 3phase but with a lot of help from Sean a fellow Red Mak owner this was soon sorted !

Progress is going to be steady due to work and family commitments , and the fact I want it damn near perfect !

I will post the updates as and when they happen , a few photos below show this afternoons progress. A few parts removed and half a tank of super unleaded drained !

To be honest I was really worried about what may lay beneath - considering its a uk car ! Yes there are areas of surface rust underneath the underseal but the floor pan and sills look pretty decent considering . Hopefully will be getting down to some serious underseal and rust removal soon :smthumbup
 

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good luck with that, what a mess that is under there ,who said underseals a GOOD thing
Waxoyl/underseal isn't a bad thing,it's spraying it onto rusty/dirty car for a start.does the job nicely if prepped right for a start and have no to little rust.agree,waste of time spraying over rust for a start like this one by the looks of it.
 

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Good luck and good on you for taking it on. After seeing so many cars broken on here the last few years for the :gay:est of reasons, recently we've seen a few of these projects start, makes my day every one I see :D
I can see why they have though, I'm 3/4 of the way through sorting my rear rails that are rotten...I've seen better shells on here scrapped. The problem is that the area where they rot is so complex by design and is a pain to sort. Replacing the rails would be an absolute nightmare, I have a 5k mile rear end that I could use so if it were easy to fit that's the route I would be going down! I've had to cut both diff hanger bar mounts and toe arm brackets off just to get at the rot that's behind them it's that bad! Easily will have around 100-150 hours in it by the time it's stripped back and stonechipped, with the supply of shells it's easier to swap it all. That said any car that's not had wax in the box sections will be rotting from what I've seen, the two skins only touch eachother in small places for spotwelds leaving large voids to trap moisture with no exit so it will just sit and do its thing until the void fills with a biscuit like layer of rust which grows to the point that it blows the outer skin and that's when you know you have problems! I must have easily cut out 2-3kg of rust and replaced it with only a few hundred grams of sheet steel!
 

· Anthony
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Oh I have seen a few on here that were rooted, once that salt gets it's way in deep you're in trouble. I have no issue with ones like that, the fault was with the previous owners obviously.

But unfortunately I have seen many many more broken that essentially had nothing wrong with them at all. Even ones with just a dud engine... so what? sell on to someone who can afford an engine. Or very minor accident damage and they're broken. Just ridiculous and only serves to drive the price of cars up, parts up, and brings the day closer when Mitsubishi decides to stop making new parts anymore as there aren't enough left on the road :rolleyes:
 

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I understand entirely, those breakers are a waste but assuming the shells live on then it's not all bad. sadly I think that day is drawing far too close as although most over here are religiously undersealed they often are still bare inside the rails which is a far more important area than it getting surface scabs on the accessible flat panels!
 
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