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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi all ive just checked my codes again on my evo 4 on evoscan software its coming up with -
Diagnostic Codes:
41 TPS Open
82 Pump Fail 1

I thought originally it was the pump failing but I can actuate it ok on air bleeding and pump drive and it sounds ok but just wondered why it is coming up with tps open as I have fitted a new tps from rossport about 2 months ago and set it correctly and its tested fine it drives fine but after 5-10 miles I get the ayc light on and same codes come back ?
anyone had this problem before ?
I have an ayc rebuild kit here just didn't want to change it all to find out I might have missed something
 

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what sort of pressureyou getting from bleeding? do you know what pressure the pumpis actually making?

what its doing is as soon as you drive and turn etc the valves open and send fluid down the lines to the diff, but if there is air in the system its pushing against it, or the pump cannot make pressure quick enough to keep the lights off which then shows the pump needs rebuilding

always ignore code 41 anyhow, its ageneric fault code that comes up on a code failure for the ayc
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
hi mate when I was bleeding it the pressure seemed rubbish and was just dripping out and no real pressure
I have stripped the pump down today and there is loads of corrosion on the back side of the plate within the pump so I already had a kit from evolution hydraulics so fitted that successfully but both the solenoids are broke now :wallbang:
so spoke to them today and gonna sent the solenoids to them for overhaul and hopefully it will be ok or its 400 plus vat for new solenoids :smthumbdo

Also whats the best way to test the pressure of the pump when I get the solenoids sorted ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Few pics of the internals after cleaning and you can see the corrosion on the inner plate
 

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easiest way is buy a pressure gauge kit of evolution hydraulics to test

common fault with solenoids breaking im afraid, ive stripped 3 pumps today only 3 solenoids out the 9 arent broke, a lot worse condition than your pump lol, so ill upgrade these to billet anyhow, as tbh billet is the way forward, they will never snap or corrode and you know the solenoid has been refurbished too, so me personally id go that route as ill be doing that to my own pump next week

allsi say is make sure everything is spotless and i mean everything, just of the off chance, did you cover the centre section up while you were removing corrosion?

and id get some stainless solenoid retaining plates too if you can, the thing with these pumps you can throw them together but unless you fix the issues of why they corrode they will start again so if you can prevent it and upgrade atthe same time its worth doing, i mean you wouldnt skimp out on engine componenets so why skimp out on these too?

also on the centre and motor housing the holes the long bolts go through, if you havent, enlarge the holes slightly think a 6mm dril bit will be fine or 5.5

if you use grease do not get it on the centre section of the pump at all anywhere else you will be in trouble
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yea think ive had cheese stronger than these solenoids !!
yes I made a template of tape to go over the centre section of the pump when I was cleaning the corrosion found a useful video on youtube and yes I enlarged the casing bolt holes on both sides as these were completely knackered
I only put a small amount of grease on the outer side of the new stainless plate but nothing on the internals
I just finished putting it back together tonight so I'm going to use some rtv sealant to seal up all the joints on the outer side to hopefully prevent the ingress of water so hopefully it should last
same here mate don't see the point in cutting corners :smthumbup

easiest way is buy a pressure gauge kit of evolution hydraulics to test

common fault with solenoids breaking im afraid, ive stripped 3 pumps today only 3 solenoids out the 9 arent broke, a lot worse condition than your pump lol, so ill upgrade these to billet anyhow, as tbh billet is the way forward, they will never snap or corrode and you know the solenoid has been refurbished too, so me personally id go that route as ill be doing that to my own pump next week

allsi say is make sure everything is spotless and i mean everything, just of the off chance, did you cover the centre section up while you were removing corrosion?

and id get some stainless solenoid retaining plates too if you can, the thing with these pumps you can throw them together but unless you fix the issues of why they corrode they will start again so if you can prevent it and upgrade atthe same time its worth doing, i mean you wouldnt skimp out on engine componenets so why skimp out on these too?

also on the centre and motor housing the holes the long bolts go through, if you havent, enlarge the holes slightly think a 6mm dril bit will be fine or 5.5

if you use grease do not get it on the centre section of the pump at all anywhere else you will be in trouble
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok bud just ordered some dinitrol :smthumbup , and sent the solenoids off too so fingers crossed it will get sorted and no more ayc light lol
Thanks for your help m8
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
All sorted ��rebuilt the pump myself using evolution hydraulics kit and they repaired both my solenoids for me put it all back together today and all bled out fine using the evoscan software !
No more ayc codes or lights and she drives spot on , before the light would typically come on after about 5-15 miles with code 82 pump fail , and went for over 60 mile drive and no codes or lights so well happy
Cheers for the advice m8 ��
Now I can move onto something else to fix lol
 
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